xcarguy

MNlotus, The original term is Gurney Flap (you can thank Dan Gurney for their existence). Not sure where they go on the Cat, but a Gurney Flap is typically added to the trailing edge of a wing to create additional lift (in our case, additional down force). My Stalker is in the process of getting Gurney Flaps added to the front and rear wings. Here's a good artical for reference: http://allamericanracers.com/the-gurney-flap/

Justin, A few positive comments in this thread regarding ZZR's: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=9550 :cheers:

. . . . this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesla-TORQ-Carbon-Roadster-Black-Black-2013-torq-100-electric-f-1-inspired-closing-ev-division-/380974381934?forcerrptr=true&hash=item58b3d7bb6e&item=380974381934&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Seb, PM Croc. He sent these out to all via email.

Kevin, If interested, here are links to the mods I’ve made to Stalker #85 regarding aero/down force. The first two links show how I mounted the wings (at the time, aluminum), both front and rear. Front wing mount: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20707 Rear wing mount: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20677 The following link depicts my change from aluminum units to carbon fiber. I used the existing front wing mount for the CF wing as well as the existing rear mounts for the rear CF wing. Front and rear CF wing: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24683 I enclosed (as much as possible) the underside of the engine bay for improved undercar airflow: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22236 You’ve seen my diffuser, but here it is again. BTW, I think your diffuser is fine as is: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22874 I added louvers to the front fenders to help evacuate high pressure air form between the tire and the fender:: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20708 I added small tabs to the tops of the front and rear fenders to decrease lift in those areas. Front fender: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23374 Rear fender: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25162 My latest mod has been to the hood due to excessive lift of the hood at the rear where the lip mates to the cowl. See the hood lift video and the link to my resolve. Hood lift video: Hood mods: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=26697 Once I did the head/cam mods to my engine, it was evident that I had outgrown the small slicks I had been running. I move from a square 15 x 10 setup to a staggered 16x12 rear and 16x10 front: Previous 15” square setup: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22340 Current 16” staggered setup: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25146 For an idea of how the car performs with the current mods, see the video in this thread (please excuse the music and the inaccurate tach on the Traqmate—I didn’t have the mic turned on for the run nor did I have the Trqmate tach properly calibrated, however, the GPS speed and G-forces are accurate: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=9745 My next planned mods are to fully enclose the drive shaft as well as add Gurney flaps to both the front and rear wings. :cheers:

Because building is rewarding. Nobody knows your Birkin better than you.

toedrag, Make your tunnel cover removable . . . . You'll thank me later down the road. I ended doing a slight frame mod on #85 for steering shaft position: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6981

Great shots all around. :cheers: I think we may have found us a forum photographer.

A few more shots of that car: chassis #66 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=18069

I'll have to say . . . . once again . . . I've never seen a locost that looks so much like a factory build. :cheers:

I wanted to add to subtle’s comment regarding a good 60' time. When I was a kid in high school, I used to head off the drags nearly every weekend with a buddy of mine whose dad drag raced. We kids were the pit crew, and I have to say that helping out with that car was a huge learning experience, especially when I got to help stage the car (burn out and lineup). At the time, his dad ran a ‘74 Vega with a 327 cid SBC backed by a Lenco transmission, with which he was very competitive and very consistent. This was in the late 70's and on one occasion, I remember him running a 4.90 in the eighth. The reason I remember that time specifically is that on that same night, a jet powered car came in for an exhibition run; the jet car also turned a 4.90. That’s all gee wiz, but getting back to the 60’ time, the majority of drag races are won at the starting line, and a good 60’ time will absolutely (literally) cut tenths off of your E.T. This gets us back to the issue of Storkers :jester: being 'tractionally' challenged (add that to Webster's) at the starting line. As we know, these cars, while not set up for it, can be drag raced. John Meyer turned a sub ten second run with his at 140 plus. And I do indeed look forward to hearing back from MightyMike again once he slaps a set of drag radials on his beautiful car and finds the sweet spot with the go pedal off the starting line; he'll end up shaving an easy two seconds off his time. Having said that, imagine how well these cars would run down the strip if they were truly set up for such a task. :cheers:

Mike, I can't remember if this came up one of our earlier discussions, but when you took the gorgeous green beast to the drag strip, what gear were you using off the line?

subtle, I've never even attempted to acheive a 1.3 60'. As you know, these cars, simply put, just aren't set up for the strip. Rear end geometry would need some tweaking, drag shocks and softer springs would be a must and, of course, drag radials. In all honesty, I've never mashed the go pedal all the way in first gear. A second gear launch is challenging enough as it is. :ack:

Steve, Glad to hear all went well with your surgery! I won't lie, grabbing that John Deere award came with a huge trade off; I think I sucked a big portion of my seat cover up my . . . .well, you know . . . . before I got the car back on track. :smilielol5: As for HP, I'm currently working on a molecular HP tranfer devise, using transfer pods similar to those employed by Jeff Goldblum in The Fly :puke:. But in this case, we stick both our cars in one pod, puch the BIG RED button and see what comes out the other side. However, earlier test results using The Stig and a large grasshopper revealed that further tweaking is needed . . . . . :bs:

Tom, Those are 'perfect world' numbers; no tire spin, .5 sec shifts, no drag increase with speed and Joe Cool :cooldude: driving the car . . . . . . How about just one plug wire next year? :jester:

This is exactly the reason I had Liberty Gears build me a TKO600 with face plated 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears as well as add a few other internal mods . . . completely different anumal from a stock TKO600 with zero shift issues during high (above 6000 rpm) rpm shifts . If you are usign your car primarily for the street, then the six speed makes the most since. For primary track use, the 'modified' TKO600 is a very good lighter, smaller choice. But heeds Gale's advise; a 'stock' TKO600 isn't the best track-worthy choice for a tranny . . . it definitely needs the mods.

subtle, You're right; any of these cars fitted with an LS engine is a challenge when it comes to transferring power to the ground. This was the main reason the 3.45 gears came out my car and the 3.23 gears went in; power is useless if you can’t use it (speaking for myself here). While the difference in first gear is moot (still, no traction to speak of) the difference on the open road, and the track, is very noticeable. You nailed it down when you said, "Basically if you can save yourself a shift on your favorite track, you are getting the most out of it." I've ran four different tire sizes on track over the course of the last year and a half, and there is a very noticeable difference regarding when and where you need to shift and also in how much speed you can carry on a straight with one tire vs. another. If you run two different tire sizes back-to-back during the same event, the difference is simply eye-opening. FWIW, when I did the head/cam mods to the LS6, I started playing with various tire sizes (the 15” Avon slicks vs. the 16” Avon slicks) and different gear ratios (3.45 vs. 3.23) using a performance calculator app (Bench Racer) and what the numbers revealed was nothing short of amazing (at least, it was for me). I used 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and 1 mile criteria. My car, when compared to itself but with different sized tires and different gearing, actually ran ‘mathematically’ quicker in certain areas (because of the power-to-weight) with the larger diameter tires and ‘numerically’ lower gearing. Here are a few snap shots for the sake of quick comparison. The most noticeable differences are in the comparison between the 15” tires with 3.45 gearing vs. the 16” tires with 3.23 gearing (chart labeled 15” 3.45 16” 3.23):

Mike, When my car had the SC V6, it had 3.45 gears. Once the LS6 went in, the 3.45 gears were replaced with 3.23 gears not long after.

subtle, You'll end up being very happy with the 3.23 gearing

This was loaded onto the Storker (Stalker :jester:) forum as a doc file. It's an older article, but worth a look at/revisit. I couldn't figure out a way to load this as a doc, so here it is photos. Hopefully the resolution is good enough to enlarge and read. :cheers:

Too tame for a Seveneer. :jester:

I wonder . . . . with the 2.73 (and enough motor) if the lack of aero could be overcome long enough to see 200 mph . . . . . :rofl:

Okay, here’s sum more meat n’ taters :jester: I’m running a Tremec TKO 600 geared as follows: 1st: 2.87 2nd: 1 .89 3rd: 1.28 4th: 1.00 5th: .82 My LSD gearing is 3.23. I’ll use two different tire sizes for examples; the smaller Avon slicks I used to run prior to stepping up to the larger Avon’s that I now run, and the Nitto NT01’s I currently run on the street. Theoretical top end speeds are assumed using 6500 rpm and a nil drag coefficient. Speed = RPM x Tire Circumference x 60 / (Differential Ratio x Transmission Final Drive Ratio x 12 x 5280) Max Engine RPM: 6,500 Tire Circumference: 67.08 (Avon crossply slick: 10.7/21.5-15 with 21.85” OD) Differential Ratio: 3.23:1 Transmission Final Drive Ratio: .82 6500 x 68.172 = 443,118 443,118 x 60 = 26,587,080 3.23 x .82 = 2.6486 2.6486 x 12 = 31.7832 31.7832 x 5,280 = 167,815.296 26,587,080 / 167,814.296 = 158.43mph Speed = RPM x Tire Circumference x 60 / (Differential Ratio x Transmission Final Drive Ratio x 12 x 5280) Max Engine RPM: 6,500 Tire Circumference: 77.7504 (Nitto tire: NT01 255/40ZR17 with 24.92”’OD) Differential Ratio: 3.23:1 Transmission Final Drive Ratio: .82 6500 x 77.7504 = 505,377.6 505,377.6 x 60 = 30,322,656 3.23 x .82 = 2.6486 2.6486 x 12 = 31.7832 31.7832 x 5,280 = 167,815.296 30,322,656 / 167,814.296 = 180.69mph Using the 3.23 gear ratio, 6500 rpm and the Nitto NT01’s from the above example, max theoretical speed for each transmission gear (sans overdrive, as discussed above) would be as follows: 1st: 2.87 51.97 mph 2nd: 1 .89 78.91 mph 3rd: 1.28 116.52 mph 4th: 1.00 149.14 mph . . . . . . . . :svengo:

. . . . . . . . . :hurray:

Good to see someone else getting their finger pulled for a change . . . Oops! I probably should have left that alone.