slomove

I agree this is an un-winnable debate and that is why I wrote my comment a bit tongue-in-cheek. The likelihood of getting shot is still low enough where I live to feel reasonably safe. I don't feel passionate about it one or the other way and we have a few rifles at home, although they are not mine. And, while I used the word "stupid" I did not direct it at anybody with a different opinion. Maybe I should better have said "but as a society I find it a counterproductive policy"..... Kitcat is right there is no real point stirring this. I would actually appreciate a good discussion about it but given the emotional environment and cemented opinions that is all but impossible.

I can relate to the food gathering. Not sure about the freedom and safety though. Since I am about 8 to 10 times more likely to get killed with a gun here in the US than in most other developed countries I can not say that guns make me feel that safe. And, if I had a gun at hand when needed I am not that sure I would like to take the chance of a shootout. I might have to practice a little. I agree there are circumstances a gun will help and it may make you feel better as an individual but as a society I find it stupid. Similarly for your family members. Since gun homicides are predominantly committed by somebody known to a victim I guess they are statistically more likely to be killed by you or another law abiding relative/friend than a stranger/criminal. You may want all of them to carry a gun all the time just in case you lose your marbles and they need to defend themselves.

I had the engine rebuilt in 2008 by a local recommended builder and got the head back like in the pic below (actually 3 valves were like that). Note the improperly seated valve spring retainer clip. If I had not seen this by chance the first start-up might have been quite interesting. So, if the builder is working with a hangover or otherwise not paying attention I am not surprised.

Most of the usual mics (nowadays typically electret condensor mics with or without preamp) just have trouble with the decibel level. They are not made for that and distort the signal already, then still output high volume signal into the recorder which may distort it even more before it gets in to the AGC stage. I had moderade success with an old fashioned passive dynamic microphone from Radioshack. This normally needs a mic preamp but with a 1:4 audio transformer I just routed it directly into the camcorder (I used a Contour HD with hacked electronics for a remote mic) and slid the mic behind the driver seat. Somewhat decent volume (usually needed some boost when editing), good exhaust sound but in that position also some suspension click/clack and wheel noise on uneven pavement. However, I have given up video recording for the most part. I still have unedited video from 6 years ago and don't need to add to that....

I have been driving without since I got the car (like maybe 30-40% of CA drivers) and never had trouble with the cops, even when they gave me tickets for other reasons. But I did get one from a Palo Alto meter maid while parked. The funny thing is I had 2 choices: - attach the front plate, have it signed off by a highway patrol officer and pay a $15 administration fee to the City of Palo Alto - keep my criminal habits, not do anything and pay a $75 fine to the city of Palo Alto What does that tell me about law and order? Anyway, I paid the $15 and cut the cable ties right after I left the CHP lot.

I have the newer Innovate MTX-L wideband meter. This is basically the LC1 packaged in 52 mm dash gage with digital and bargraph display and 2 programmable analog outputs for logging. Last time I looked it was $200 including the probe. Works very well.

I suspect the detail features of the pistons were not designed with much consideration or optimization of heat transfer properties and under normal conditions it is probably good enough.

Well, sorry if I point out the obvious. But assuming the timing was optimal or even borderline before, could the increase in compression have taken the engine over the pinging edge?

Holes are no problem. If they are in the wrong place just make them bigger :jester:

I was shocked as well when I received this on the USA2005 mailing list. I toured with Ed on the 2005 trip and he joined us for the PNW2007 tour as well. Below a touring picture somewhere in Washington State (photo by Louise Rutter).

What, not pics with a Seven UNDER the truck?

For now I mounted a TWM position sensor that I still had as a spare. But it looks like the difference screwed up my map enough that I have to do some work here, even after recalibrating the sensor. I also found that Jenvey now offers a customized non-contact hall effect sensor from Penny&Giles that fits directly onto their throttle bodies. Costs a whopping 96 GBP plus shipping but I ordered it anyway. That should hopefully solve the reliability problem. All that crap 2 weeks before I want to go on that long trip to Canada.

Over the last year or two my car started idling a bit erratic, sometimes good, sometimes rough and the entire low throttle range became a bit lean, as shown by the wideband lambda probe. I checked everything, nothing has changed, coolant and air temperature sensors work as well as the baro sensor. I even replace the lambda probe to be sure. Now, I checked the TPS and it appears the low end is a little bit uneven in response on the multimeter but what really surprised me that I measured 2 kOhms across the supply terminals. I could have sworn that it had a nominal resistance of 5 kOhm. Not sure what TPS I have, it came with the Jenvey TBs from MSI. Might be Colvern or maybe not. Anyway, did somebody ever notice a wholesale resistance change on a TPS? I have a hard time to believe that can happen. But in any case I guess I should replace it. This is for a ZX1 with Jenveys and Emerald M3D ECU.

Fabulous...hope to see y'all soon!

Are you guys still planning to meet us there? Right now I am getting a bit panicky to sort some electrical and fuel injection gremlins but come hell and high water we will be there (knock on wood....)

That would worry me. Are you sure the plugs have the correct heat range for your engine? Or maybe that cylinder possibly running very lean?

Thermostat stuck? Raceline water rail without bypass? Real oil film or just a sheen?

I have Hella projector modules, but I opted for halogen instead of HID bulbs (cheaper and allow for flashing high beams). The light is fabulous and I could integrate some daylight LED and the turn indicator. But I had to make my own housing pods. I am not aware of standard housings for that.

Thanks guys, I will do some data logging and see if the fueling needs to be changed. I would guess not and if so only at WOT. I had seen the test results from Emerald a while ago and the crazy long tubes obviously have an effect. But the conclusions drawn for the smaller changes are a bit shaky, based on the charts. Or at least if there is a measurable change it is also quite small. Maybe I take the car to a dyno again sometimes and compare with the old setup.

My 6 year old ITG foam filter was finally falling apart and I did not like it anyway: very messy with the oil impregnation and prone to detonate when freshly oiled. Also very expensive to replace and hard to find the rounded version. So I looked around and found the the Chevy HHR air filter fits pretty well into the bonnet cutout. The biggest challenge was the air box and I ended up combining this with the trumpets which also allowed me to go from 63mm trumpets to 90mm length. I cut it from a thick laminated plywood block on the CNC, but I used the K&N version of the filter because it is only half as tall as the OEM paper filter (and looks better). See pics below. I braved the 103 degrees heat in the trailer today and installed the contraption. So far so good, did not drive it yet but I don't believe there will be much difference.

There are shift knobs for sale that fit Caterham 5-speed and 6-speed as well, suggesting it is the same thread as the T9 which is M10x1.5 (IIRC)

That is the solution. I know you can get shift knobs with other body parts, too.....:jester: Sorry, could not resist :toetap05: http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/images/12/2008/08/medium_Shifter-Hand.jpg

I guess it is "better" in a way that people know up front they are not insured. I read the risk is just too high for an insurance to offer reasonable rates. The strange thing is however, even with such sh!t sure to happen, the government allows or promotes building in the flood planes (or right next to the beach). That said, we build here in SoCal on any earthquake fault we can find plus the ones we don't know about.

Hey Dave, welcome back. I was wondering how long that may take.... ;-) Assuming you would stay with a Birkin (or a regular Caterham): - You could devise a removable hitch bracket/frame that connects to the lower chassis tubes and the roll bar stays on top. That should give enough strength for a lightweight trailer. - It is pretty easy to lower the floor on a Birkin. I did it and alt least another one was done by previous Birkin owner "Soareyes". Just cut out the slider rails for the seats and a hole in the floor, fold a shallow aluminum pan and rivet it in. Did not take me more than a weekend. Then mount any racing seat. - as for weather protection I don't have a full hood for many years, just the half-hood or bikini top. Together with wide wind deflectors it provides good protection from short showers. For heavy long time rain you need to put on a light rain jacket anyway. The atomized water mist in the air is going everywhere and will soak you after a while. For any serious rain you will need wipers. The tiny ones on a Birkin look pitiful but work quite well. I am not sure if Stalker and Ultralight offer them at all? Last year we went across Tioga Pass in heavy rain and hail for an hour and the 2 Seveneers going with us without wipers were completely blinded and a bit stressed out after that.