slomove

Looks like the Smart is now in 2nd place? And there is a Ford Model T in 28th place but still with some points. Strange race, I guess I need to read up a bit more.

No cool nights here. We had 113 degrees today in Downtown LA, apparently the highest on record for this time of the year. *Only* 109 degrees here in Pasadena. Still 85 degrees right now at 8:45 pm. Can somebody stop that, please? I still have to finish the front end rebuild of my car but working in the driveway at such temperature isn't that great.

here

May need a relay, though. I don't know if the switch in the gearbox can handle two H3 bulbs.

Something like that? http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Shock-Wrench/dp/B001DDF152 http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21OF-3NuI-L._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Thanks guys, that simplifies life!

I am not a master welder, well maybe not even apprentice level but I do use my MIG welder with good results. Sometimes it just takes a grinder to make the welds look nice :jester: Anyway, usually I take the mild steel wire to weld normal steel and the 308 stainless wire to weld stainless parts. Today I was too lazy to swap the spools and welded some regular steel (actually a cheap wrench) with the stainless wire and the weld looked really good, I guess better than welded with the mild steel wire. So, a question....besides the more expensive wire, is a stainless weld wire strength-wise comparable to a mild steel wire when used with non-stainless parts? Just curious....

For a ZX1 Zetec engine. Anybody happens to know? Also, did somebody try the Aeroquip Quick-Drain Couplings? Thanks!

I changed the stock 250 lbs springs on my Birkin to 325 lbs long time ago. Much better handling and no comfort disadvantage. I remember that Woody Harris had 400 lbs front springs on his Birkinsport race cars. I would not necessarily compare with Sevens of other brands. Different suspension geometries (shock/spring angle and connection point leverage) may require different spring rates. Gert

May be totally off here but does your car have a live axle rear end? If so, you can check if the propshaft will hit something like propshaft hoops or chassis parts in the tunnel when the springs are compressed. I had that when I first installed the hoops too low and it gave a horrible screeching sound next to my butt, especially when driving with passenger. Probably not good for the joints when that happens. Gert

I am not too worried about theft (knock on wood). Professionals usually steal cars that are popular and of known value, sometimes steal-to-order. I would rather be concerned about joyriders and vandals but it would take somebody hours to figure out the non-standard wiring and get the car started. Accordingly, when I park the car in public places (especially overnight) I just take the steering wheel off and thread a bike cable through the front wheel. It would be almost impossible to sell a Seven in the US without ringing the alarm bells and I am not sure if Mexico is an interesting market.

Hey Jim, sorry for mixing up names. I believe there is a Seven owner named (Jim?) Fluckiger somewhere. Obviously not Grant's Pass, though.....

There is Jim Fluckiger with a Caterham who lives in Grant's Pass. Maybe you can shoot him a Private Message (member name Jim F.)

Thanks, that would be interesting. But I don't want to imagine what it takes to get the film laid up without folds on the compound curved surfaces of a Cobra. I did put it onto the painted surfaces of my Seven (nose and wings) and that was already a royal pain in the behind.

I am known to polish my Seven once a while with pretty good result (road quality not show room). However, one thing that bothers me is the exstensive rock pitting I get at the lower side panels after a few 1000 miles . That prevents any meaningful polishing unless I sand down the tiny pit craters which I don't really care doing too often. Did anybody ever try the paint protection film on polished aluminum? May not be as super mirror shiny as bare polished but may also last longer?

Next step of the overhaul: brake calipers sandblasted, painted (high temp baked-on caliper paint) and re-built with new seals. It did occur to me that painting calipers bright yellow is a really dumb idea with all the brake dust but at that point it was already too late. I had also considered the Outlaw brakes but these VW GTI brakes work really well and they are only a little heavier. Running out of rebuild funds, too. http://lh5.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TJVn4BcDUYI/AAAAAAAACEA/er0ZX4nEqAE/s800/P1020436.JPG

Apparently not in the US? http://www.fishnhunt.co.nz/forum/YaBB.cgi?num=1282001466/5

Hah, great minds think alike :hurray:

That is a possibility but a 12mm ball joint would be quite bulky. The 8mm ball joints I am using now are the ones that came with the kit and well up to the task. The bolts themselves are 12.9 grade and very strong. Since the joint ball butts up against the receiver side, the bolt carries mainly a shear load (vs. bending). Tapping a larger bolt with a smaller internal thread may be a bit unusual but it works actually very well, looks good and removes unnecessary hardware.

I have single adjustable. Bought it 5 years ago and back then the double adjustable were not available. I suspect I would not know how to adjust them properly anyway without a shock dyno. If I remember correctly (but not sure) I paid about $160 each, with made to order length. No idea what they may cost today. Of course shipping was another couple of bucks.

Another snag (self-inflicted) and the workaround..... I tried to hook up the anti-roll-bar and found that my shortened steering arms will make the steering rack extensions collide with the ARB push-rods when turning hard: http://lh6.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TJGNZZOXeWI/AAAAAAAACC4/B1F1SHGhKFc/s800/P1020428.JPG But... I did not like the flimsy aluminum clamps around the bar anyway. I guess they do the job, since I did not hear complaints from other drivers but I was looking for a cleaner solution. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TJGNaurLTZI/AAAAAAAACC8/4-jGRiywnd8/s1152/P1020433.JPG I welded a stainless coupling nut into a stainless tube and ground conical as receiver for the push-rod ball joint. Then I slid the tube on the roll-bar and crimped it into a notch. I lost the adjustability but the wide-track roll-bar has anyway only minimal leverage. Should be good that way.... http://lh5.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TJGNcx3Yn1I/AAAAAAAACDA/c3jtpTqA4_I/s1152/P1020435.JPG To do that I tapped an M8 thread into the hex cap of the lower M12 shock mounting bolt as receiver for the lower ARB push-rod ball-joint.

I have the ProTech shocks from the UK. Made to order any size and end fitting, reasonable price: http://www.protechshocks.co.uk/products.htm

Well I have had a request from an owner in Australia who was willing to give me $250 for the old parts (wishbones and uprights with ball joints). But I have not heard from him after I wrote that the shipping was another $130-$200. So, if somebody is interested, please let me know. Domestic shipping will surely be more sensible.

Adhesive bubble wrap? Light and dimply.....Not sure if the adhesive would stand up to 200 mph ;-) http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/images/products/packaging/50807p.jpg

Dang. Should have done that but forgot. I don't think the longer wishbones make for much of a difference and the steering rack bracket (the plate with the large holes) is maybe a pound or so. The major added component is the shock bracket that goes across. It is a welded box tube from sheet metal and just guessing from lifting it up it may be 3-4 pounds? Insignificant for me but for a pure racer it may be objectionable.