slomove

You bet I will vote My suggestion is anyway to sell the position of all elected officials to the highest bidder (or auction on eBay?). The candidates with the the most money get the job like usually today. So what is the difference but it will eliminate the campaigning and voting hassle while adding the wasted campaign money to reduce the tax burden. Everybody wins! :bs:

No S2K announced to come...but there seems to be a good turn-out of other Sevens at next SupercarSunday. Maybe Mondo might come over (only 115 miles)?

Probably this one: http://www.californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/showthread.php?t=1585

The only guy with an SV in the area is Magnus F. but he went Aeroscreen a while ago. Given the tooling effort I will make 2 sets at least, if for nothing else as a spare. Then I can send you a set for a test fit and you can try if it works. But I think I am getting ahead of myself here. Let me first see if I can shape the screens properly at all. Maybe it ends up in flaming failure and Rosie is laughing her rear end off. :willy_nilly:

Interesting. But I have only the dashboard made of brushed and black anodized aluminum and I believe the only stress is from the passengers holding onto it. :cooldude:

When I got my car in 2003 I tried the regular half doors with and without deflectors and while it helped it just struck me as a jury-rigged solution. Larger deflectors are esthetically a compromise and the button-up half doors are cumbersome. I really prefer to get in and out without hassle. That niggle is what got me to fabricate the transparent swiveling half doors in the first place. Opens and closes in a second, no need to stow away and does not impede the open feeling like the regular tall doors. I decided to give the frame-less thermoformed version anyway a try. If I don't have a challenging project I will drive my wife crazy..... and if I get that to work I will post a few more pics.

The discussion about reduction of buffeting is probably as old as the Seven. So far I have seen only practical experiments with varying and very subjective results and no scientific data. I read somewhere that Lotus experimented in the wind tunnel in the 60s but did not implement any improvements after that. Caterham is said to have done some wind tunnel experiments for the overall aerodynamics but probably did not look at the buffeting? Anyway, I don't think the buffeting has anything to do with the rear wings. After all it is known to go mostly away when you remove the windshield or install Brooklands (you still have the air stream but not the wild turbulence). But since I don't want to wear face/head protection in the car this is just not an option for me. The steep windscreen forces the air to go up and over the cockpit (think aircraft wing) creating lots of vortices (google Karman-effect). My theory is that closing the side openings at least partially does not eliminate that problem but moves it backward out of the driver's face. Whatever it is, these half doors have done an excellent job of keeping the hat on for the last 6 years.

YouTube - Great Story - Canal Plus

Well, it insulates to a degree. While the buffeting is much reduced (actually the turbulent zone is rather moved backward behind the driver's head) there is still significant air flow in the cockpit. After all I live in Southern California and I use the car rather comfortably in the 90's. Only when it get above 100 degrees I prefer a car with A/C. These screens don't help or hurt with the common problem of feet roasting. For that I have separate forced footwell ventilation and firewall insulation. Edited to say....when it over 80 degrees I also use the sun roof.

Guess you are right. With the boot over it just looks much shorter. Here is how it looks on my Birkin: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TJGNaurLTZI/AAAAAAAACC8/4-jGRiywnd8/s800/P1020433.JPG

I have been using self-made transparent half-doors/wind-deflectors (picture below) for several years and can not imagine touring without. They almost eliminate wind buffeting in the face and keep rain out of the cockpit. To open they swivel forward over the bonnet around the mirror stem. So, not really gullwing but kind of. The ones that I made are pretty much beat up after 6 years and need to be replaced. Now I am wondering if I should just re-do them as they are (flexing and attaching thin Lexan onto the metal frame) or if I should go through the trouble of building a mold and thermo-forming thicker Lexan (i.e. 3/16") into shape, thus getting rid of the metal frame. Obviously more elegant but much more cost, work and risk of failure. Anyway, just wondering if somebody else would be interested in such half-doors (please PM). If I would make 3 or 4 sets the cost of material, labor and amortization of equipment would be about $350 per set. No commitment necessary, just looking for serious interest to get me motivated. Bad news: This is most likely for Birkin S3 only. I don't know if the screen angle and door cutout of a Caterham is even close (but could find out). While I have special tripod mirrors right now, I will switch back to single stem mirrors soon. http://lh4.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/S8KJvfB0hDI/AAAAAAAABgU/lzP3bqgHGOU/s720/P1010819.JPG http://lh4.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/SxHSehEgPPI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/5-yHWpGIvcw/s800/Hwy166_2.JPG

IMO the tie rods ends are a more elegant and simple solution and easy enough to get. I would anyway be worried with the cone that far sticking out of the taper that it may shear off under brake or cornering load?

Don't know. Please call Doug or write to the email listed above. He is not a member of this forum but I thought somebody here might be interested.

I used a 1/16" self-adhesive EPDM rubber sheet (McMaster #8610K2). Protects very well, inexpensive, weather resistant, can be easily cut to size and replaced. When treated with a little ArmorAll, is becomes a deep shiny black.

Hello Tom, I believe the fibers are actually orientated vertically on Mike's car. It appears diagonal because this is a 2x2 "twill" weave pattern. If you buy a carbon fiber panel with "plain" weave pattern it should match your fenders. Gert

Posting for a friend: Essentially new Zetec SVT engine. Missing some parts from the intake manifold. No flywheel or alternator. Removed from a new Focus that was damaged enroute to the dealer (hail storm). They had two and I bought them both. One is in my car the other has been stored since. I've not been able to break the first one so will part with the spare for the right price. The SVT is a bolt in swap for the stock Zetec and an easy way to get 40 to 50 hp more. You'll need to work out the ECU, wiring and intake details. Caterham USA has done this but no longer sells the engine, they may be able to support what you need. It's not difficult if they cannot. Offered to the list first, if no takers I'll try the Turbo Focus group as they've found the secret to blowing them up. Contact Doug at tidsales@roadrunner dot com or call 8O5-4O2-1225

Envy......:toetap05: :drool:

Should not be one or the other....why not have both? For that matter, Las Vegas is very convenient for me (4 hours from L.A.) especially in October when the heat is hopefully not that bad. Pretty sure I will be there. But I think most of you East Coast folks may find it pretty far, same as that last LOG was just too far out for me. So.....I really don't want to push it too much (oh well, this is a lie) but plans are congealing for the next Sevens trip (as announced earlier) to the Black Hills. Almost in the middle between California, Pacific NW, Midwest and Texas, i.e. 2-day trailer distance. Admittedly the southern states and New England are a bit further out. The center piece is a 5-day stay in Custer, SD and I have already some 3-6 other people interested. Fabulous trip and lot to do for the family, if so desired! If we want we could make this a USA7s meet. Disadvantage: no road track in the area but maybe we can find an Autox place. Anyway, just an idea. Here is the latest plan. Right now I am working on some hotel options (with the friendly help of Randall Z.) Tour Start Sun, 7/11/2011 Jackson, WY Thermopolis, WY 247mi Shoshone Res., Wind River Canyon, dinosaur museum Mon, 7/12/2011 Thermopolis, WY Newcastle, WY 269 mi Southern Bighorn Mountains, Thunder Basin Grassland Tue,7/13/2011 Newcastle, WY Custer, SD 39mi Jewel Cave Nat. Monument Wed, 7/14/2011 Custer, SD Custer, SD no driving Laundry, car care, town visit Thu, 7/15/2011 Custer, SD Custer, SD 89mi Southern Black Hills, Wind Cave N.P. Fri, 7/16/2011 Custer, SD Custer, SD 88mi Crazy Horse Monument, Hill City Sat, 7/17/2011 Custer, SD Custer, SD 69mi Mt. Rushmore, Norbeck Scenic Drive Sun, 7/18/2011 Custer, SD Deadwood SD 250mi Badlands National Park Mon, 7/19/2011 Deadwood SD Hulett WY 107mi Spearfish Canyon, Sundance, Devil's Tower N.M. Tue, 7/20/2011 Hulett WY Ranchester, WY 262mi Little Bighorn Battlefield Nat. Memorial Wed, 7/21/2011 Ranchester, WY RedLodge, MT 245mi Northern Bighorn Mountains, Chief Joseph Hwy., Beartooth down Thu, 7/22/2011 RedLodge, MT RedLodge, MT no driving Laundry, car care, town visit Fri, 7/23/2011 RedLodge, MT Jackson, WY 225mi Beartooth up, Yellowstone, Teton N.P. Tour End

There has been a long discussion recently on the Birkinowners list with exactly this subject. Conclusion was kind of there is no single root cause but some contributors are (or are suspected): - in general the fact that the engine is installed lengthwise while designed to be across. Right hand turns will push the oil up the left hand sump wall. - some ZX1 engines did not have the windage tray installed, causing excessive sloshing - high oil level in general - worn rings or ring flutter, causing lots of blow-by, pushing the oil droplets out of the PCV (and valve cover). - too small PCV vent hose. The higher blow-by escape velocity may not allow the oil to drop out and drain back in the hose. Blocking off the PCV may help oil spitting but there is a risk of pressurizing the crankcase and valve cover, if the valve cover vent is too small to handle the blowby (I had oil seeping out of the valve cover after doing that). Some people suggested, the blowby going up to the valve cover inside the block may not allow the oil to drain properly from the cams into the crankcase. So, the conclusion was: - don't fill oil too high - make sure you got the windage tray in place - use a generously sized PCV vent hose (5/8" or 3/4") into the catch can - use an additional large vent hose from the valve cover into the can - make sure the rings are not worn, bores not glazed and piston landings not broken or rebuild the engine (I had to do that) - check the second ring gap is a bit (25%) larger than the top ring gap (supposedly minimizes ring flutter) After that I have very little fluid to drain from the catch can after a track session, maybe an ounce, including condensate water.

Surprising that they may degrade that quickly. On "regular" cars they usually last quite a while and on my Seven I just put the 13 year old original coolant hoses back on. After a bit of cleaning they look like new, smooth, shiny and no cracks.

I understand it is painful having such damage on a new car. But see it in perspective...a few years down the road with some more incidents you just will recognize it as the first of the battle scars. My Seven has plenty of that and each one is a memory

On my (older Birkin), there are two M4 mounting studs on top and two at the rear of the wing laminated in. Not visible inside the fiberglass, but from the small hump on the inside I suppose they are welded to or threaded into a thin steel strip. This is very strong, I have torn up a fender at one time, cracking in various places, but the mounting bolts stayed put. Completely invisible outside. I know some Caterham owners have used so-called Bighead bolts glued to the fiberglass.

High up above Malibu in the Santa Monica Mts. http://lh3.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TEyBGyizYgI/AAAAAAAABxI/I04rv72rTzg/s1152/P1010990.JPG Small car, big trees (Avenue of the Giants, Humbold Redwood State Park) http://lh5.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TKabOOMGfZI/AAAAAAAACFk/yCscXPtmcJU/s800/P1000470.JPG Just a normal highway in Southern California (actually Caliente-Bodfish Road in the Southern Sierra) http://lh3.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/TKaeFElQ2fI/AAAAAAAACFo/ElmAJ0lAL1c/s800/IMG_3438.JPG

Don't know why the bleeding should cause a failure but yes, they are known to break earlier or later. I replaced mine with this one: PARR Automotive part # RFW-SW-32 low pressure brake light switch. Their Phone # in Oklahoma is 1-800-654-6779 (I lost the web site) This is a direct replacement for Birkins and many Caterhams. They also carry a mechanical switch for brakes # RFW-SW-62.

For small quantities McMaster is a reasonable source but obviously not cheap: http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-honeycomb/=92dxt8 Keep in mind that bare honeycomb without laminated faces is quite useless as it crushes easily under minimal local load. It is really designed to take up the shear stress for large surface area sandwich laminates under bending load.