Jackal

Thanks Dan!

I didn't make it to the garage, but I decided I had to get some work done today though. I found some good looking LED's in mounts at a local electronics shop. I like that they are ready to use on 12v systems, but I didn't like the way the wires came out the back. They are just 22 gauge wire without terminations. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/524e41cc.jpg I set out to make them a little more robust. Male tabs were fitted, soldered and heatshrink on each connector. Then I shrunk on an outer layer of heatshrink and finally another bit os shrink to help with strain relief. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/5a4426fd.jpg I like the detail work, but with all the crawling around yesterday, crouching over a hot soldering iron for an evening has destroyed my back.

Well, after four long weeks it finally came in. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/ce38d276.jpg Everything I should need. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/f44272af.jpg Tomorrow I start the install.:party:

As many of you know, I had a tonne of work this weekend that I was really concerned over. The main project was the installation of the bushing for the Crank position sensor. I was really debating if I was going to pull the motor to separate the trans and flywheel to put in this part. I decided that the best way to get the most reliable timing was by putting in the bushing, and using the stock location for crank timing. I am sure glad that I did. Some friends volunteered to help me with the task, and gave up an entire Sunday to do so. Dropping the motor out of the car was easier than I thought. We used a jack under the motor and the engine hoist to haul the car into the air. The motor dropped out pretty easily. Once out we cracked the motor and trans to see what's what. Unfortunately we found that the bolts holding the motor to the trans were all just finger tight it seemed. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8860.jpg Opening the trans I was curious to see if the pilot bearing was in place, as through the help of this forum, research and follow up with the fellow who assembled the motor, I knew it was needed, and was assured it was there. It was not. :banghead: A couple quick calls, and a trip to Auto Value there was a pilot bearing put where it should. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8857.jpg Pulling the clutch plate, we realized that those bolts were also just barely on there. In fact the only bolts we found that were actually to spec was the flywheel bolts. Pulling the flywheel we got to the final destination for the days events. We mounted the bushing, and started to put everything back together. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8864.jpg Unfortunately we found that the collars that are in the bell housing that help line the the motor up to the bell housing were what caused the two bolts to feel like they were stripped. It was actually the collars that were rotating in the holes in the transmission. We settled on drilling the collars out and using a nut and bolt combo in those spots. I am happy to say that I chose to go ahead and crack the motor because if not, there could have been some serious challenges that would find me later on. I'm a bit disappointed at the stuff I found, but I feel good that it got sorted out.

One more question that my tuner asked this morning, was for the trigger pattern on the stock (01 Focus in this case) flywheel. He will be installing the Haltech for me, and wants to double check the trigger pattern from the CPS. It looks to me that it is not a direct correlation to the teeth in the flywheel, but rather a set of spaced "holes" in the flywheel that triggers the pulse on the CPS each "hole". So does anyone know the trigger pattern off the top of their heads?

Off Road SHO- Thanks for that write up. You covered everything I needed to get confidence in doing the job. I'll look up the tourque specs tonight to be sure I am prepared. 1turbofocus- Thanks. I think I'll be picking up a tool regardless. I may as well have it for the next time, and they are pretty cheap at the local parts stores. Marine7- Thanks, I will be sure to have one just in case.

So Tom, have you got a link to the VCT delete? Eventually (a couple years) I'll be looking to beef up the power on this little beast of mine. First though, I'll be happy just to have it on the road. Any advice for me on the clutch, and how I can keep it centered while I work behind the flywheel? I'm guessing that the clutch doesn't get bolted to anything, and can come out when I separate the motor from the trans.

RFYS4G6015AA is the number she ended up using at the dealership. It is the number stamped in three rows with only AA in the bottom row. It is stamped on the upper left side of the block when looking at the exhaust side. I have a couple numbers stamped on the flat spot down by the starter as well though. One is very clear and the other isn't. she couldn't find either of these numbers in the system though.

Running the Jenvey ITB's, not the stock intake. Somehow I have a Focus block with a VCT. Not sure how then.

I am going to be running a Haltech P1000. That's what i thought. Ford checked the numbers themselves though. I am left to think there was a Canadian version of the Focus that had VCT or that the head was put on after the fact. Regardless, In a year or two the VCT comes off, and I'll be looking to build some NA horsepower. I just picked up the bushing over the lunch hour. amazing the trouble over such a small part.

Thanks for the help Tom. I have the part at the local Ford dealership now. I made sure several times that the bushing was for a manual. When getting the part, I checked the motor identification with Ford, and they say the block is for a 2001 Focus, so that is the bushing I got it for. It is strange to me that the block is for a 2001 Focus, yet the head is clearly a VCT. I did not think that the Focus came with the VCT in 2001. Stupidly I forgot to get the number off the head last night for Ford to run that PN. I will grab that number tonight, and have Ford run the head SN and see what comes up. I plan on checking the functionality of the sensor before puitting the motor back together. I noticed a resistance spike when I multimeter the pins on the sensor I have for the speedometer. (or was it a dip in resistance, I can't remember?) Ideally after putting on the bushing, and before torquing the flywheel, I hope to be able to see the same spike in resistance when I rotate the flywheel manually after installing the CPS. My biggest concern now is keeping the clutch centered, or recentering it once I separate the motor from the trans. Do I need to worry about this if I am just separating the two? I don't have a centering pin that I see used on larger clutches, and will want to locate one before Sunday if I need one. Well it looks like I'll keep it then. I have seem it get run to a simple catch can made of a water bottle before. When I bolt it back on, can I just jam a filter into the top port and be done with it then? Iguess if the catch can is needed, the filter top would get saturated with oil quickly. I may replace it in future with the one you suggest, but with the other costs involved in getting it on the road this spring, I'll need to save some of these items until later. In future I will most definitely be looking for the additional power, and deleting the VCT, but the block in my car says it's from an '01 Focus. Do you have a link I can follow for some info? Edit: Edited responses to combine them into one reply.

The foam os structural, and should give great support for jack, roof bars, tool kit, multimeter, spare fuses...... I have a few major projects with Bea on the go, so the foam is on the back burner. I have finished pouring it though, and it waits for carving. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/673338e0.jpg

I'll be doing my first engine pull ever on Sunday to install the CPS bushing. I am hoping to get it done in the one day. I have a hoist that wi9ll be meeting me there. I'm looking for advice to be able to accomplish this. I think I'll be lifting the whole car up on tall sawhorses, and then dropping the motor out the bottom, working on it under the car, and then lifting it back up into the car. If you want to join me on Sunday PM me and I'll get you the address. Beer (within reason) and Pizza will be included.

Hi Everyone, I asked the bloke I rent the garage from if I could have some folks over to help pull the motor. On Sunday I intend on pulling the motor, separating the trans, and pulling the flywheel to put in the bushing for the CPS which was missed when the motor was initially installed. I hope to have the motor back in before the end of the shift. Who's in?

Well, one challenge seems to be correctable sooner, rather than later. My local Ford rep was able to tell me that the block is from a 2001 Focus, but has a VCT head on it. She was also able to find me the CPS bushing I need, and believe it or not, it's only a couple days out. I am going to see if I can get an engine hoist for the weekend, and pull, separate, remove, install, reinstall, put back together and back in in one day on my first try. Anyone in the area on Sunday is welcome to swing by to lend a hand.

:iagree:

I have not been presented with much of a solution for the CPS other than pulling the motor and putting in the right parts. I'll be ordering the bracket (if they still make it) and the CPS from a local Ford dealer. I have never pulled a motor before, and I definitely don't have a hoist, but I figure if I put it out there some of the local folks might pitch in to help. I hope that it will only take one day to pull the motor, separate the trans and mount the bracket since the car is basically stripped anyway. I finally took an etching of the number plate on the motor. I can't find the resource that will tell me exactly what vehicle the motor came from. It's a VCT from 2000 Is what I'm thinking. I have two numbers on the flat plate by the starter one significantly clearer than the other. The more faint of the numbers gives me the first to letters YR. That means it's from a ZX2, 2001 Contour, or Cougar. Hopefully that will be enough to find the right CPS and bracket.

Thanks everyone for the help. Thanks for the help. Dipstck I will drop the pan and punch the plug out from the bottom. I hope it's a semi straight shot to it from the bottlom, and I'll use some dowel to push it out. I think this is the safest way to do it. Oil/Air separator As for the Oil/Air separator, I'm not sure if I want to block it off. I' like the idea for simplicity, but don't want to cause harm to the motor. I notice that most Zetecs I have seen pictures of delete the CCV and block it. What are the two sides of the debate here? CPS I am double checking with my tuning shop for options here. I am using the Haltech P1000 for an ECU, and admittedly don't know much about setting up the sensors for it. Anybody use a different sensor setup with the P1000? Water bypass Still looking for solutions here, but a quick look yesterday tells me that this is the only spot for the reservoir in my system. There is a bung at the top of my radiator, but I'm pretty sure that's for the fan sensor. The other two temp sensors are at the thermostat, and besides the vacuum line at the top of the thermostat, there are no other ports in the cooling circuit. Thanks Bernie, I noticed that when I was doing my initial search. As mentioned above, I will have to look into other solutions or pull the motor. That was unexpected, but It is what it is I guess. These other builders you mention, how did they come to a resolution? Thanks. Duane

I want to have a place for all the tools I'll need on the road. The foam is structural and can keep the jack and large tools from shifting during blats. Assuming it works out, I should have space for the jack, socket set, screwdrivers, multimeter, locking lug key and the posts for the weather gear. When rolled up, I hope the full top will fit on top as well.

I got to laying down some more foam today as well. Three more batches got laid down to fill most of the bottom of the tub. I will add a little more as well to fill the back up all the way to the crease at the back of the tub. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8717.jpg Important thing to remember is to use lots of PJ to keep the foam from sticking to the tub. I am not sure it's needed, but I also take the smooth finish off the previously poured foam to ensure that the new stuff sticks to the old. I find the best tool for dealing with foam is to use a Multimax style tool. Here is how it looks right this moment. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8750.jpg

Managed to hit the garage again today. I got to finishing the Idler pulley mount for the exhaust side of the motor. I only needed to get an extended bolt for the top of the water pump, and get a spacer for between the bracket and the pump. Thankfully there was not a whole reconfiguration of the bracket needed to make it work. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8741.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8739.jpg I'm also planning out the top bracket for the alternator and needed to mount the intake manifold. Tomorrow I'll take the opportunity to set up the filter on the intake to cut the backplate. With the intake on I got to thinking about where to run the fuel lines. I have a 90 fitting on the far end of the fuel rail, and a 45 on the input. I'm planning on running the return under the intake back to the regulator mounted by where the ECU will be. There I'll 90 to the return hardline. A picture is worth a thousand words though. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8747-1.jpg

I may as well follow up that post with a couple other silly questions. I wanted some confirmation that this hole to the flywheel is for the crank position sensor. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8728-1.jpg and this hole shouldn't be here right? http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/bb124359.jpg

I got out in the garage today to deal with a bunch of little things I've needed to do. I'm looking for some help on the Zetec I'm using. Some are simple questions I just need a little reaffirming with what I already know, and others show my inexperience with building/reconfiguring motors. I have not built a motor before, only done bolt ons to a built motor. I intend on doing as much work on the motor as I can before handing it to a shop for an inspection of my work, and the first turn over. Firstly, it seems that the hole for the dip stick is plugged with a metal plug. I will have to drill or press this out from the bottom, after removing the oil pan. Is this normal for crate motors? What is the proper course of action here? I'm guessing I'll have to remove the pan either way to ensure I get all the metal out. I've included a shot of the hole for the dip tube, and it also leads to my next question. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8737.jpg There is a large hole on the side of the motor in that last shot, (taped up now of course) and before that hole was opened, there was a black tank mounted there. Oh look, there it is. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8726.jpg I have a couple questions about what this tank is there for, where the hole at the top of the tank is supposed to get terminated to. Do I need this tank, or should I go looking for a plug for it? The tank has a two stage entry point on the inlet to the tank, and the crank is right behind the hole on the block. Lastly (for now) Is the extra line I have running off the back of the water pump up to where the thermostat is. I am guessing this is for the reservoir tank for coolant. Am I right in this guess? If not, I'll need some help figuring that out as well.

Thanks Jason, I struggled a bit with the bracket, but came up with one using the old bracket from GBS online, and some cardboard templates. My goal was to push it as far down as possible, while still being able to service the oil filter. once tacked, we wnsured the gussets were adding to the structure while not inhibiting the servicability. Then notched the bracket so that it will fit the alternator like a glove. Next up is the top mount; hopefully that will be a little smother to deal with. Thanks for the idea of the pulley swap at the alternator shop, I'll look into that straight away. The trunk organizer has been on hold for a couple days now, but I should be back on it this weekend. I'll keep taking shots as it progresses though. Now for a general poll. I have been searching for an intake gasket for Beatrice for a while now. I just need a paper gasket for the intake so I can start working on the top mount for the alternator. For those with the Zetec motors, and ITB's, what have you used for the gasket from the manifold to the head? Ford parts guys can't/won't search by engine type and flatly refuse to got the extra mile. Here's a picture of the one I'm looking for. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/06c8f093.jpg

There was some work accomplished on the Alternator front as well. Bottom bracket is fabbed, and welded. It lines up well, and now I need to work on mounting the intake as the top bracket will mount on the last two intake bolts. Once done, both brackets will get powder coated to ensure they don't rust. The only snag so far is that the crank and idler pulley's have 5grooves, and the alternator pulley has four. This causes a little angle to the belt an may contribute to wear and tear. I plan on swapping the pulley on the small alternator, with the slightly smaller pulley from the big original alternator. Big thanks to STI-Guy for all the help welding these brackets on his time, with only beer as payment. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/78143606.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/7b73355a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/a9feb4c6.jpg