Cosworth CSR260 Duratec rebuild/swap in S3

[yellowss7]

Congrats Van, very nice work! Where did you get the edging for the filter hole? I'm thinking of giving my intakes a little breathing room as the filler just rubs on the SV bonnet.

 

I'm also really impressed that you tackled the gearbox. I thought those things were magical and you needed a wizard to fix them. Are you a Wizard? :smilielol5:

 

Tom

[vstryker]

Hah! A wizard... Far from it, I've screwed up and messed up more times than I can remember. But surprsingly, the Cat 6 speed was relatively straight forward. I wished someone made a dog set of gears for us with different options for 6th like how they do it with all the T9 5 speeds.

 

Anyways, you can get the edge trims at Mcmaster Carr:

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#edge-trim/=138rmev

 

 

 

Congrats Van, very nice work! Where did you get the edging for the filter hole? I'm thinking of giving my intakes a little breathing room as the filler just rubs on the SV bonnet.

 

I'm also really impressed that you tackled the gearbox. I thought those things were magical and you needed a wizard to fix them. Are you a Wizard? :smilielol5:

 

Tom

[vstryker]

This week I finally got the nice shiny radtec radiator in. Decided to use rubber hoses since it was alot easier to source the ones with the correct bends. This extreme version core is fairly thick at 68mm and should provide plenty of cooling.

 

 

The black metal return line on the left is from the CSR setup. I made a new mount to raise the expansion bottle higher, hopefully it's high enough as it is at the max height and it barely clears the nose cone. Modification to the oil filler cap was also required to clear the bonnet. I just took the old plastic cap, grounded it flat and epoxied an aluminum cap on it reducing its height y about 18mm. The small allen key allows it to be opened and closed like normal.

 

 

On the right of the expansion bottle is the oil catch can/breather. There was not enough space on the back on the engine because the plastic can is too tall so that was the only logical place. I don't like how it's mounted with just hose clamps but I'll see how it holds up or if a sturdier mount is needed.

 

 

I cleaned up the exhaust headers with some 3M scotch brite and had a hell of a time fitting the secondary to the primaries. My fingers and hands are still so sore trying to persuade the tubes to move just 2-3mm, probably wasted a good hour. Right now I have the old caterham exhaust can but I modified my old titanium raceco can to fit as well. This exhaust system is only 2.25" and is probably ok for now but in the near future will have to get a custom headers with at least 2.5 or 2.75" to release this engine's full potential.

 

Now the only thing I'm waiting for is the engine harness. Bruce, if you're reading this, please send me that harness anytime...

[slomove]

This week I finally got the nice shiny radtec radiator in. Decided to use rubber hoses since it was alot easier to source the ones with the correct bends. ..

 

Looking great. And I think the rubber hoses will work for a long time. The ones of my old engine were 18 years old and still looked good (with some ArmorAll silicone rubbing every other year).

But when I installed the new engine last year I had to reconfigure that and did go for silicone coolant hoses. You can get any angle elbow in 45 degree increments and it worked well. Wasn't really that expensive. I even found a way to catch the water pump outlet which is at a really awkward angle, see pic. As for the hose clamps, I did not use the special lined clamps recommended for silicone, but a 3/4" wide adhesive backed stainless steel tape (I believe 2/1000" thick, from McMaster) and regular hose clamps over that.

 

BTW, that fabricated aluminum cradle at the bottom is the holder for the coolant expansion tank

 

[vstryker]

It’s been a while so I thought I’d give this thread an update.

 

After an excruciating wait, I finally received the Caterham Duratec R400 harness along with the crossover harness to mate it to my existing chassis plug since they are different. Luckily, I had the help of Bruce Beachman to build me the crossover. Using the new engine harness, I also opted for the Multi Function Relay Unit (MFRU), and a new electric oil pressure sensor to keep the install clean and easy as possible. A few minor modifications had to be done as described below in order to get everything to fit.

 

Before I could hook up everything, modifications were made to the existing fuel pump wiring since I was installing a secondary Bosch 044 pump inside of the fuel surge pot in the back. Using a wiring guide from Nathan at Thomas Vintage racing, I moved 2 wires around at the Fuel pump fuse block, swap out the 15A fuse for a 20A, and upgrade the wiring to 12 gauge in order to handle the current draws of 2 pumps. To incorporate the existing inertial switch, I tapped the new fuel pump power supply and ground into the output of the inertial switch going to the existing in tank pump. This way, I still had protection and the switch would kill off both pumps.

 

Simple diagram of the fuel surge tank system that I've used on my other cars with great results:

 

 

2 liter surge tank, FPR behind passenger boot, might move FPR to engine bay in the future

 

 

I didn’t realize that I had an older OBD plug until Bruce mentioned that it had to be repined in order for me to have CAN communication and able to flash with the new MBE 9A4 ECU. Repining it was very easy after we got some guidance from SBD. All I had to do was remove the unused pin 13 and move pin 2 to 6 and move pin 10 to 14. Pin 6 and 14 are the CAN High and Low which I traced back to the ECU.

 

Pin out for obd connector:

 

 

The new engine harness had a different lambda plug than my old one and instead of getting a new O2 sensor, I just opted to rewire my old one into the harness. From the electrical diagrams in the build manual, I was able to interpolate and match it with the existing lambda sensor.

 

The fuel injector plugs were also different. I have green EV1 type injectors that came with the motor while the harness was made for EV6 type. A simple adapter bought on Ebay for a few bucks solved this issue.

[vstryker]

Mounted the battery, ecu and mfru both in front of the passenger.

 

Complete engine bay:

 

 

Filled the cooling system with distilled water and water wetter. Living in SoCal I opted for the water plus water wetter because it didn't get cold enough here. Took about 6.5-7 liters.

 

Installed oil filter, opened the valve cover and filled the main engine block with 3 liters of oil making sure to lubricate the valve train. Another 3 liters went into the dry sump system via the swirl tower.

 

With the inertial switch disconnected, I cranked the engine using the starter trying to register oil pressure. After about 15 seconds, I saw 2 bars and hooked up the inertial switch. Primed the pump a few times and set the FPR at 55psi. There was a small leak in the return line but was easily fixed by tightening up the fittings.

 

Fingers crossed, I pushed the start button and after 3-4 seconds... the engine bursts into life! I was ecstatic! It had the base map from SBD loaded and since I couldn't get my laptop to install the drivers for Easimap and the cable, I couldn't connect to the ecu. Not wanting to wait, I slowly backed her out of the garage and tried to drive around the block. Of course as soon as I gave it gas, it would stumble and stall with huge fireballs and backfire from the exhaust and intake. It already late so I limped her back inside and called it a night...

[vstryker]

Couldn't sleep all night so I woke up early and was actually able to install Easimap 6 along with the correct drivers for the cable. Hooked it up to the ecu and right away I saw 2 faults... the 1st being the TPS, which was pegged wide open and another for Barometric pressure fault. I don't know exactly what the Barometric fault is but I quickly took out the TPS only to find this:

 

 

Found the Ford TPS on Amazon which was $20 cheaper than the dealership, who did not have it in stock, and Amazon would ship it by by end of the day. No brainer decision there. By 6pm, the new TPS was at my door. Bolted it up, and using Easimap, calibrated it to 4.60 volts as per procedure. Here's the second time starting it:

 

[vstryker]

Been playing around on Easimap for over a week and I think I finally like where it's at. Our local MBE tunner guru recently moved so while waiting to find a decent tunner who knows their way around the MBE 9A4, I played with 3 different maps, the SBD base map that I received, the Cosworth 260hp base, and Sean's CSR260 map. Sean's and the Cosworth map were similar but his map was more refined and smoother.

 

I hooked up my friend's wide band O2 sensor, air fuel gauge and made a ton of runs while basically making very small changes to the SBD base map with reference to the other 2 maps. This also helped with breaking in the engine the hard way... progressively loading the engine starting from 4000-7500 in increments of 500rpms. After a few days and about 50 miles, I did the first oil change. Didn't see anything unusual or metal bits so I was happy. By then my modified map was somewhere between the SBD and the Cosworth/Sean's map. This will do for now until I can get a real tuner to look at it.

 

Some minor issues were a bad oil temperature and pressure senders. Also, for some reason, my fan doesn't come on when it's being controlled by thy ecu. It works just fine when it's hooked up the old way where the switch in the radiator turns it on off, so I will have to take a closer look at that. There is alot of heat generated from the headers so i wrapped it, hopefully it keeps th engine bay a little cooler.

 

 

 

The 6 speed that I tore apart is much smoother and the power after 4000rpms... sheshh it's ridiculous! 4th gear seriously feels like my old 2nd and it pulls as hard from 3000 rpms to as high as I dare take it in every gear. The new power scares me a bit as the scenery quickly blurs every time I step on the throttle. With that, I think it's fair to say my build is complete. I thought I'd be done by June but like all ambitious projects, with unforseen delays and waiting for parts, I'm glad I took the time to think it through. Finally, a big thank you to some of the board members and vendors for all their help.

[Croc]

What a great thread to follow! I hope you enjoy many miles of reliable blatting.

[BruceBe]

Van - glad it all worked out! Building a Duratec adapter harness for that Zetec chassis without having the car is always a test of details.

 

Vroom, vroom!

-Bruce

[vstryker]

Here's are some recent pics of the car cruising along 60+ miles of the twisty Angeles crest, engine is now fully broken in. I cut out the vent in the nose cone and it has definitely helped with the coolant temps... went from 90C to 75-80C. I think the vent was originally designed with the intention of lowering front end lift while ducting helps with radiator efficiency but I like how it also keeps my engine bay cooler. Oh and the new lowered headlight brackets looks more aggressive.

 

 

 

[BruceBe]

Looking *very* nice. Please tell me you're wearing a helmet without the windscreen, or, at least are on a first-name basis with your dentist :-)

 

Cheers,

-Bruce

[vstryker]

I hate going to the dentist so yes, always a full face helmet when on the freeway or backroads but sometimes just goggles for the short trips to costco.