dallasdude Posted July 21, 2019 Share Posted July 21, 2019 I agree with 1turbofocus 100% on the oil pump. I have posted a couple times here about the billet gears....not a problem with stock gears and oil pressure, but the harmonics of a 4 cylinder create a tremendous force that can shatter the powdered metal stock gears that fit around the nose of the Zetec crank in a wetsump configuration. It is something you cannot balance out. You actually have 4 choices. Use a dry sump that has a pump that runs off a belt, use billet gears that can handle the battering (much like being hit with a hammer), stay below the 7400 rpm that 1turbofocus advises, or find a sophisticated balancer like an ATI to absorb the vibrations. ATI make a Duratec/MB6 front crank pulley, but not a Zetec one. Never use a lightweight front pulley. The stock damper at least absorbs some of the vibrations. The billet pumps some people have were from a batch done a number of years ago. Quicksilver and CMF did them. Maybe 1turbofocus had a part in it too. I don't think anyone has any of those left new. A fellow racer mentioned this company started selling a modified complete pump with billet gears. http://www.boundarypumps.com/ford-zetec/ford-zetec-s1 We ordered one and will see how it works. As far as the knock sensor, I use one on the dyno, but don't have it connected to the ECU to make corrections My situation is different however in racing. I do log A/F, rpm and knock to the Traqmate, as we as where knock might have happend on the track. I use a phormula KS-4 which is a standalone knock sensor. Some ECUs can take a feedback signal from it. In a street car I would recommend that, as a 1turbofocus would recommend I think, the stock ECU which has all that built in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 Here is $3k worth of megasquirt stuff Engine Bay http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15649&stc=1 Brain http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15650&stc=1 Coils http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15651&stc=1 The hardware was 1/2 the price of the install and tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vovchandr Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 When you have a chance, could you tell me what PSI your fuel rail typically reads at while running? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 When you have a chance, could you tell me what PSI your fuel rail typically reads at while running? Thanks! You want between 38-42psi of fuel psi under all conditions Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 stay below the 7400 rpm that 1turbofocus advises, or find a sophisticated balancer like an ATI to absorb the vibrations. ATI make a Duratec/MB6 front crank pulley, but not a Zetec one. Never use a lightweight front pulley. The stock damper at least absorbs some of the vibrations. The billet pumps some people have were from a batch done a number of years ago. Quicksilver and CMF did them. Maybe 1turbofocus had a part in it too. I don't think anyone has any of those left new. A fellow racer mentioned this company started selling a modified complete pump with billet gears. http://www.boundarypumps.com/ford-zetec/ford-zetec-s1 We ordered one and will see how it works.. I didnt ask if he had the stock balancer or not , I would hope so , Yes Boundary has the billet pumps and they do look good , I dont know about there gears but the previous ones from quicksilver would still break in the 7800-8000 range so you only got a couple hundred RPM more from them Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vovchandr Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 You want between 38-42psi of fuel psi under all conditions Tom That's exactly why I was asking! Ha! His setup is very similar to mine and identical throttle bodies with built in FPR. Before mine broke I was reading right around 50psi which we agreed in my thread was too high and when I was trying to turn it down on the screw gas was spewing past the gasket once I was giving it leverage on the adjustment screw. Since this was a week before the 7's event I left it alone and didn't want to end up breaking it further right before driving down a few hundred miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driven Posted July 23, 2019 Share Posted July 23, 2019 http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15650&stc=1 While those relays and wiring will be perfectly fine... I would hate to have paid $125/hr for someone to have my wiring look like that. Looks very backyard mechanic. Could have used relay holders (for easier replacement), while hiding and raychem'ing the wiring loom. Micro relays would have been nicer too. Oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dallasdude Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 While those relays and wiring will be perfectly fine... I would hate to have paid $125/hr for someone to have my wiring look like that. Looks very backyard mechanic. Could have used relay holders (for easier replacement), while hiding and raychem'ing the wiring loom. Micro relays would have been nicer too. Oh well. I will defend the guys who did this a little....yes they weren't cheap, but Raychem is all well and good if you are building a series of harnesses. For a one off or something the config might change on....you can very well rip it all back out. What if he installs a knock sensor like 1turbofocus recommends? I will admit I never used micro relays, but you can buy the Bosch style relays for 5 or 10 bucks almost anywhere. If you even suspect on is bad....you throw it away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 I will defend the guys who did this a little....yes they weren't cheap, but Raychem is all well and good if you are building a series of harnesses. For a one off or something the config might change on....you can very well rip it all back out. What if he installs a knock sensor like 1turbofocus recommends? I will admit I never used micro relays, but you can buy the Bosch style relays for 5 or 10 bucks almost anywhere. If you even suspect on is bad....you throw it away. I dont think he ment anything was wrong with the way it was done working wise , he just felt for 125.00 an Hr a higher class of wiring should of been done , when you ask for advice/opinions sometimes you hear what you dont want to hear To install a KS now would be a nightmare and that cost should be on him , he should of known on this engine it needs to be there , he should of known about the RPM and the oil pump gears and at least installed the billet oil pump gears , in the areas that cover you the most he seems to of not addressed Are you running the stock Zetec balancer ? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 The wiring looks fine, I like the engine management wiring to be totally separate with it's own power feed, this looks good, the Megasquirt with it two relays right next door looks good to me. By the way a base MS3 wiring harness is only $85. And people playing with fuel pressure, If you engine was tuned with a specific fuel pressure and you turn it down, you ARE running lean at full throttle. So if you car has been professionally tuned don't randomly adjust the fuel pressure. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driven Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 he just felt for 125.00 an Hr a higher class of wiring should of been done This exactly. The wiring to the relays are pretty basic and what I'd expect for a DIYer or a quick fix. It'll work, but it doesn't look like what one would pay someone $125/hr to make. For replacement, if that Bosch relay fails (unlikely), you have to create a wiring diagram, pull the wiring, unscrew the relay, and replace. With relay holders, you pop the relay out and toss a new one in. For $125/hr, I'd expect that kind of convenience and higher-end wiring. The rest of the loom is fine. Raychem would make it more reliable, cleaner, and have a higher resistance to temp -- but at a higher cost. Mind you, I just redid my chassis and engine wiring looms, so it's all fresh to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian 7 Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 In a car as light as a 7, 30 hp is going to make a big difference. I had a Westfield with a 2l built Vauxhall at about 185 hp. Now I have a Superformance S1 with a mostly stock 2l Zetec. Westfield was like a rocket compared to the S1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightonuk Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 Couple of short Videos showing the Air Fuel (but as I did not note the RPM rather pointless) And the fuel Pressure Any thoughts would be welcomed https://youtu.be/w-o5iL4orUE https://youtu.be/D8UlF-fwqSg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 Hard to tell on the A/F , what is the WOT air fuel , what is the steady throttle A/F at different RPM ? Fuel psi at 50 psi ? Thats kinda high if it is , 38-42 psi is Avg normal AF for that Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now