Rosteri Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 Parts continue to trickle in… Blinkstop refunded a little when I exchanged my 4-channel receiver into this new 8-channel receiver. I’ll repin the old wires from the smaller connector and then add a few new ones for the shift control on the steering wheel. It was a very nice gesture from them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 (edited) The above large Ampseal connector was horrible to work with, as one can press the contact pin too far in and then only dissassembly rescues. It took me 3 hours before all were ok… My diff backcover had a small oil weap and it was on my fix it during winter list. I tried to re-weld it - but the casted aluminium was full of cavities (and dirt) and in the end I had no idea if I fixed it or not, as crap and pinholes just kept appearing. Eventually I just machined everything off and made a cover plate to seal it. I guess this is one way to spend your weekend. I noticed Caterham parts had additional diff struts / braces also for the S3 chassis, I thought they were only available for the CSR and 620 metric chassis... I’ll call them tomorrow to check if they fit, as for £56 a piece I won’t bother to make them myself. Edited February 13, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 And one more to do completed - I hated driving in the dark, as my cockpit was pitchdark and it felt almost like I had no torso… two red marine indoor lights should fix that just fine. There is no driver seat on the left side in the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 15 hours ago, Rosteri said: I tried to re-weld it - but the casted aluminium was full of cavities (and dirt) and in the end I had no idea if I fixed it or not, as crap and pinholes just kept appearing. Eventually I just machined everything off and made a cover plate to seal it. I guess this is one way to spend your weekend. Sorry to see you were working with a genuine Ford casted part too. Disappointing when that happens. Your fix works but what a lot of effort to solve a manufacturing fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 13 minutes ago, Croc said: Sorry to see you were working with a genuine Ford casted part too. Disappointing when that happens. Your fix works but what a lot of effort to solve a manufacturing fault. It was partially my fault, as I should have left more of the mounting boss and then the casting faults wouldn't have mattered. This rear diff is the last old part in my drivetrain and I have no idea about its history. The ZF LSD inside looks new, but for some reason the aluminium case has been painted with thick hammer paint... perhaps to make it look refurbished..? But it has been quiet, so I'll just use it for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 Last year I made the diff mounting bolt spacers / shims out of plastic and this was a perfect moment to make new permanent ones out of steel with my lathe. Since I was planning to have them zinc plated, I took the opportunity also to shorten my cylinder head exhaust studs and I also refurbished a few corroded steering rack parts and the lower steering column to a like new look. They turned out really nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 18, 2022 Author Share Posted February 18, 2022 (edited) My setup to open and torque hub axle nuts with a simple L profile, that has two holes = zero drama The large nyloc nuts are a bit hard to find, so here are some part numbers: A.B.S. is an aftermarket brand and in Europe you can find them at least from part dealers like Autodoc and Aeromotors, costing only a few Euros a piece, so there is no need to re-use old ones. And the new driveshafts interfered with my swaybar link, but shortening the mounting boss eventually solved that. Edited February 19, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 (edited) Diff struts - there is very little to be found on this subject, so here we go. Imperial S3 chassis and the right struts are the 620R race struts, which is a metric chassis. I was about to order the S3 struts, but they are for a BMW diff. There was a ~ 5 mm gap, so there is room to mount the belts also below the chassis rail for a Hans setup. My engine ended up 4 mm more rearward than originally in the HPC, so to have the Sadev a bit closer to the right position we machined the bellhousing 2 mm shorter. This is mainly to ensure the propshaft has some longitudinal tolerance. Edited February 24, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 (edited) The compressor from Meteor for the paddleshift arrived: 2.2 kg, nice. Next I’ll need to figure out how to mount it into the trunk. The sound is ok as well, but I’ll support it on further rubber bobbins so it stays ok as well. For reference if anyone builds their own, the compressor seems to be a Viair 92C, that has been slightly modified. The airfilter P/N would then be 92620. So spare parts are available. The bracketry and pressure tank (both alu) look like custom made. Edited February 26, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 (edited) I was never quite happy with my drysump breather setup - the breather pipe to the catch tank was routed under the exhaust flange between the engine and tank and while it worked, it always hurt looking at. My second problem is the smell and fumes harrasing the driver at standstill. The breather of the catch tank is a small K&N filter on top of the tank cap and hot gases escape upwards thru the bonnet louvres. After staring at it for a week I finally have a new setup for the breather pipe/hose, but it did require some modifications to the tank. The oil system starts to be quite a labor of love… New AN10 bosses welded to the breather line: And new routing now under header. It is tight: Next is the breather fume problem. A simple solution would be to scrap the filter and just run a pipe under the car from the cap, as the oil tank most likely always has overpressure and it wouldn’t suck dust in, but this is just a guess. Edited February 27, 2022 by Rosteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 And the breather is sorted - I printed a small plastic cover, that goes over the small K&N filter and seals with a large O-ring around the base, then routes the fumes underneath the car with a short aluminium tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 And cnc machined some brackets for the compressor. I wanted the weight rear and low, so I’m going for the space above the driveshaft in front of the fuel tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 6 minutes ago, Rosteri said: And the breather is sorted - I printed a small plastic cover, Which type of filament did you use for this? I will likely print some parts for my build, but I'm not clear on the best option for the heat, grease, and oil it could see under the bonnet. As for your compressor brackets...wow! Almost too pretty to hide under the back of the car. Thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 I’m using an SLA printer, so the plastic hardens chemically and not from cooling down. I’ve actually never used such parts in a vehicle before, so it will be interesting to see how it performs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Thanks, and you're correct, I'm using an FDM printer, so that won't apply. My current plan is to use the printer for rapid prototyping, then have any parts machined based on the CAD files. Thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Yeah, sounds good. I’m happy to help with one off cnc parts for a seven, if you have a hard time finding a good shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Thanks for that offer! If I run into a bind, I will let you know. Most things I do should be pretty simple. I'm hoping something like emachineshop.com will suffice, but there are a number of machine shops in my area with good reputations if they don't work out. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPG Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Quote I’m using an SLA printer, so the plastic hardens chemically and not from cooling down. I’ve actually never used such parts in a vehicle before, so it will be interesting to see how it performs. Which SLA printer are you using? I was working at Formlabs (retired now) while I was building my Westfield. Lots of parts on in that were done on their printers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 1 hour ago, MPG said: Which SLA printer are you using? I was working at Formlabs (retired now) while I was building my Westfield. Lots of parts on in that were done on their printers. Yes, a Formlabs here as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 Happy days! The compressor is now controlled by the ECU: Compressor ON if air pressure is below 10 bar AND engine rpm over 500. The AIM display receives the Variohm air pressure sensor voltage (500-4500 mV) from the ECU via CAN (ECU Analog input channel) and uses then a math channel to convert it into pressure (bar). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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