Mr Mark Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Having issues with the transmission. Bound up the other day, couldn't move the shifter, seemed to be engaging two gears or ? Took the front cover off and saw the middle selector shaft too far forward exposing all the detent grooves. I pushed it back where it belonged and it works fine. Also my release bearing is occasionally noisy(dry bearing buzz). All I have for info is it is a Ford Cortina close ratio box. No year or model #. I need help identifying the box. Hoping someone can ID it by the picture of the top. 4 bolt cover in front of the shift selector assy. Any ideas on fixing the "bound up" part? Common problem? Etc. supposedly has a new clutch assembly but it has been sitting. I'm thinking after I.D. the transmission I should be able to source a bearing..... Thanks for any help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Westfield Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 is this it? https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-2000e-bullet-gearbox-guide.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 (edited) It looks like the standard gearbox (2000e series) from the Cortina and Elan. These are pretty simple to work on but requires engine and gearbox out to work on and rebuild. I've rebuilt 2 in the last couple of years (with limited previous experience, so not difficult). I uploaded some videos to YouTube of my first one, disassembly and reassembly - will try to find the links and post them, but you may be able to search for Elan gearbox and find them. The lotuselan.net website has a wealth of information on these, and I have some threads there on my rebuild, too. Another participant there, "promotor", is extremely knowledgeable and helpful - would recommend you join and post questions there, too. To your specific problem, if you can get to the shifter in your tunnel, one thing to be aware of is that the dome can be too tight (should be a small gasket between it and the mount) or too loose, either of which can cause selection problems. A dab of loctite can keep it from loosening. But if you need to replace the clutch release bearing it is probably a good idea to go ahead and take it all out and open things up for inspection and possible rebuild. PM me if you want to connect or need any help. Henry Edited May 2, 2022 by SENC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Here is the link to the first disassembly video - did that in 4 parts, and a couple for reassembly. You should find them after finding this one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 The release bearings are available from the major Lotus suppliers (RD Enterprises and Dave Bean in the US, Kelvedon, SJSportscars, TTR, Sue Miller in the UK). I suspect yours is the flat faced bearing, but that depends on the clutch housing and may require the round faced bearing. I don't think you'll know that for sure until you get into the bellhousing and see what you have currently (you may be able to get a boroscope into the clutch release arm hole in the belhousing to id the bearing and clutch housing type). Following are the original part numbers for the flat faced bearing in case you can find some old stock anywhere - some of the new chinese repros didn't last long for others, as a warning. Original Manufacturer Number Ford 105E7580 Ford 105E7580B RHP 6W 1 3/8 FAG 508458 Timken 1375 FKC 6W 1 3/8 SKF 408504 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Looks like a '60s ford cortina/escort mk1 based on the smooth top cover and looks to be a single rail, bolt-on shifter housing versus the bullet integral shift mount. The release bearing is probably the same for both. Probably just some internal wear between the shifter extension and gate, possibly combined with aggressive shifting that isn't exactly in the right vector for the internals. Some welding and machining should tighten things back up. If it happens again, turn the engine backwards slightly to take the load off the gears before realigning the insides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Mark Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 Good information, thanks all...... I will pull it and see whats up, I was hoping for “just put heavier detent springs in” to solve the problem...lol....Nothing's that simple right????...I'll stop whining..... I don't have a problem rebuilding it, I appreciate the the parts sources and opinions..... the videos are a great resource too, thanks.... more to come, I'm sure.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 With my similar transmission it was possible, after a lot of miles, to engage reverse and 4th at the same time by making a quick or sloppy shift into reverse. The proper solutions are mentioned above, but with careful reverse selection, mine lasted another several years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 On the 3 rail transmission, there should be a lockout detent that prohibits the 3/4 selector rail and the reverse selector rail from moving at the same time. If the gear shift is not pushed all the way to the right, it engages both rails and moves them together if the detents are not working well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 New detent springs are readily available if needed, but you can also shim them with small washers. The goal is to have the spring top extend 8.5-9.5mm above the face of the lid (iirc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 The lockouts are at the front end of the case, circled in red, #7233. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Mark Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 That must be where the issue is. When I pushed back the 1/2 (center) rod, it was back to normal... I guess I'll pull it and see whats going on, freshen it up etc.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 (edited) I'd be interested in seeing how the lockouts work unless the lockout is another term for the spring and ball detent? Hard to see. I guess it is a 3 rail. I was thinking of the shift rail. Supposed to be a triumph shifter on the end. I think if the fit were tighter at the shifter ball and the notches it would probably be less likely to engage both but that would be some work to do. Edited May 2, 2022 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Before pulling things apart, how is the oil level. Low oil level will cause issues. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 2 hours ago, MV8 said: I'd be interested in seeing how the lockouts work unless the lockout is another term for the spring and ball detent? Hard to see. I guess it is a 3 rail. I was thinking of the shift rail. Supposed to be a triumph shifter on the end. I think if the fit were tighter at the shifter ball and the notches it would probably be less likely to engage both but that would be some work to do. It's been a while since I've seen it, but from memory and the diagram, there's a cross drilled hole perpendicular to, and between the rails. The pin sits such that it has to be pushed aside, right or left, by one rail or the other. When both rails push at the same time, it has nowhere to go, so neither rail can move. It is a detent system, but separate from the 3 detents accessed by removing the top cover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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