Engine fitment woes

[MV8]

In order to repair the original engine mount bracket/arm, the pieces need to be installed, the engine supported to the correct height, and then tack welded together. Then it can be removed and fully welded. After fully welding, it can be reinforced with a single, 0.125 gusset across the two-bolt flange and plug welded to the tube. If clearance is tight due to the flange being narrow, the bolts could be replaced with allen or torx socket head bolts. Here is the general idea of the gusset.

[IamScotticus]

Tube can accept a rod core for strength 

[MV8]

That would keep it original looking for sure. If going that route, I'd find a thick wall tube, pipe, or rod that barely fits inside, insert it as far as it will go, drill 5/16 holes two inches apart that rotate 90 deg along the original tube, drill the two bolt flange 3/8" so the rod/tube can be welded to the flange from the engine side of the flange, install, tack, remove, fully weld, then grind and sand the plug welds smooth for an invisible repair.

[MV8]

Drilling only the outer tube, not the new rod/pipe/tube.

[Bartman]

Thanks to all we now have a plan, the first order of business is to repair the original broken mount, and as suggested it will be a combination of an insert rod welded into place via holes drilled and a web welded to the mounting plate.

 

In all these investigations it seems that the mount I was supplied had been welded together upside down, and, as it's not symmetrical, we can't just rotate through 180. The new mount is however a better and stronger overall design (box section welded to flat plate) so we may end up cutting it apart and re-weld and keeping as a spare or replacement. In any event, fixing the original will give us an accurate template that we can use to remediate the new one. FWIW it appears Arch has a pretty long lead time so not going to wait for a new one to be made "right side up".

 

I went ahead and had a new low profile oil filler cap made, it turns out the thread is 3mm x 30mm. Noting a comment about the issues of needing a specific tool to remove I also knurled the top of the final design and that will allow it to be removed by hand (or 14mm hex).

 

Lastly, I cannot tell you how helpful it is/was to have so many folks willing to go measure and offer advice, @Carlb's measurements were critical to understanding what had gone wrong, I am very grateful to all and hope I can pay it forward.

 

As the loom is still a work in progress in the UK I have given up hope that the car will be ready for the NJMP event,  but I will plan to be at there to say hi.

 

ATB.

 

Bart

 

 

[fastg]

I would make it so a 3/8 socket head is the side of the opening feature, that way no special tool is needed to undo. 

 

Graham 

[Bartman]

Sometimes it just takes a while. I finally got my super expensive custom oil filler cap as shown in the photos made better than I can draw it! I have not tried it for size yet but I am confident it will work as planned.

 

Today I also have the tracking number for the wiring loom that was made by PGM in the UK, it's been a long - long wait but now its on its way stateside, hopefully if the customs gods smile on me I will have it in my hands next week it only took 9 months  PGM were great to work with but problems with parts shortages just kept pushing it back.  I am very excited to get this project moving, I have been looking at a pile of parts for so long its not funny,  new engine, sadev gearbox, tractive suspension, pneumatic paddle-shift,  fuel cell, roll cage, seats, MBE ECU, Aim system, Accusump, oil cooler, radiator, calipers, wheels, tires on and on and on ......

 

Time to make this pile of parts a car