Metal Garage reccomendations?

[MV8]

I've had a few of the 30x30 or so metal tube carports over the years. I'm looking at have a 30x40 or so two or three bay built after I grade and build a pad for it this year. Any  recommendations?

[speedwagon]

have a 30 x 80 straight lower sided Quonset. too much wasted surface and hard to do anything with.  Go for flat side and roof, much easier to finish the inside and clean.   john

[MV8]

Turns out I have a 24wx25l and 24x30 with the standard horizontal rib roof that uses standard 5 rib, 3 foot wide panels. I found there are a lot of places that have the roller for forming the galvalume panels (comes in a big roll in all the normal colors in either 26 or 29ga) to custom length at a cost of about $2/linear foot (half the Lowes and HD box store prices), so not that expensive to fully enclose what I have and fit take-off garage doors and a new entry door. I think I may order another 24x25 but fully enclosed and framed out for two 10wx8h doors and a 3x7 entry, then fit my old 24x25 frame against it and reskin for a 24x50 that is half garage, half three sided carport. The panel have held up very well but since I'm taking the carports down to move, I don't care to fill all the holes that probably won't line up again when assembled on a proper slab. Too many options make me a "deer in the headlights".

 

I like the idea of the quonsets but see the issues. The tube carports have been great for my climate.

 

I found these Wayne Dalton garage doors at Lowes that are perfect for my needs. A 16x7 is about $250 where the next step up is over $1000. They are only an inch thick; made of a steel and foam core composite so very light. I expect the springs are not as good as the standard door so I will grease everything well and set the spring tension on the low side.

Similar idea in vinyl and sheathing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pez_69LkldQ

How the door goes up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgE-hPXz3iU

 

 

Edited December 27, 2022 by MV8

[MV8]

I have just enough width in back to go with an 18' wide (to miss a row of fig trees and leylands around the perimeter with room to grow). I like what this guy did inside an 18x30. Video is about 3 years old and prices are about $1500 more now for the same thing (from a different supplier):

 

Used one of these sensors for about $50 to find my well water line (pump power is routed with the pvc plumbing) then dug to find the depth, since the area will be graded. 24 inches but it is comforting to confirm:

 

[MV8]

Since these carports are going on slabs and I'm grading my driveway, I checked the local concrete suppliers for the going rate though I won't pour until after Easter/last freeze of the season. The last time I ordered concrete was probably about 15 years ago. It was $90/cuyd for 3000 psi/5 bag with no additives. This time, I going with 5.5bag/3500psi and enough water reducer added for a seven slump (well worth the small increase per cuyd for easier work without loss of strength from excess water). 10 yards is considered a truck load. They can hold more but it is a weight thing. Each cuyd is about 3500 lbs.

 

The place I used last time gets $212/cuyd plus $65 for various fees and delivery (probably not including tax), plus an extra $200 if less than 6cuyds are ordered (good to know for planning). $2185 per load plus tax.

 

The other supplier gets $176, $50, and $100 for under 5 cuyds, so $1810/load.

 

I'm making a 12 foot chute to add to the roughly 16 feet between the rear tires and the end of the trucks chute. This will keep the truck out of my forms and help me place it as close as possible. The chute will be a metal roofing panel with 2x4 sides and blocking to keep the U shape with a few feet of chain to wrap the end around the trucks chute. Pumping would be ideal, but I don't like trusting a third party pump trailer and operator where many things (show up/setup/operation) can go wrong and you've got tons of concrete coming that will have to go somewhere within 30 minutes of delivery, plus the mix costs more spec'd for smaller gravel/more sand to ensure it doesn't stick in the hose. I think a small pumper adds about $500 for a half day.

 

I also found the local supplier of the materials used to assemble the carports/garages. I should be able to purchase directly instead of through a third party for everything.

[MV8]

Finished the prep, moving a few vines and fruit trees (Serviceberry/Saskatoon and Honan Red, Saijo, and Tanenashi Japanese persimmons), as well as cutting a few pines and an oak (Oregons latest, biggest electric chainsaw is fantastic; much better than the electric Poulan's I usually buy). Rented an 8,000 lb mini-excavator with a thumb for the concrete, stumps, and general grading. Dropped off and picked up for the weekend was about $900.

[MV8]

While going to town on this excavator, my water broke........ I marked it really well so I could rip out while trying to pull a massive stump that had rooted around it. Broke the line in four places and the well power (nope, not all in the same area). Fun, fun, fun. Ever covered in Georgia red clay, exhausted, and have no water? Very humbling. Still, a very productive 8 hours in the saddle and only lost water for about a half day.

[slowdude]

On 2/27/2023 at 6:03 PM, MV8 said:

While going to town on this excavator, my water broke........ I marked it really well so I could rip out while trying to pull a massive stump that had rooted around it. Broke the line in four places and the well power (nope, not all in the same area). Fun, fun, fun. Ever covered in Georgia red clay, exhausted, and have no water? Very humbling. Still, a very productive 8 hours in the saddle and only lost water for about a half day.

We need photos of your progress!

[MV8]

Not much to show of the hobo castle at this point. I'm at the hand grading/screeding point of the pad area near the blue truck before forming and pouring.

Side yard before:

After mulching:

After grading, stump pulling:

[mrmustang]

I’m watching this with great interest, as I am also in the planning and quoting stages for an attached 30x40(10) foot ceiling, stick build. Having never done this in the south, I need to ask if you are pouring footings, or just compacting the red clay, adding forms, rebar, etc and pouring directly? Any need for a vapor barrier?

 

thanks in advance

 

Bill S.

[MV8]

Thank you. Your current code may differ from what is actually needed. I am repairing a driveway that may receive a free standing car port or two that may eventually be fully enclosed.

I am compacting clay but I may add some stone simply because it is easier to level than clay if you don't count getting it delivered and into position. With a form in place and leveled, another board across the form with notches can be dragged down the form boards to level small stone. My focus is on ensuring the concrete will be uniform in thickness with uniform height and hardness of support. I don't mind pouring thicker using 2x6. Concrete is cheap considering how much you material you get for around $200/cuyd. The trick is calculating how much as they will dump it all, even after your forms are filled so have a spot designated for concrete truck washout.

A plastic vapor barrier is very important to prevent ground moisture from rising and condensing on the bottom of joists and roof or floor panels in a crawl space or through a porous slab. It will be added just before the pour. The barrier is essentially painters plastic. I use the thickest plastic within reason that comes in a roll that will result in the fewest or no seams to tape. I'm using husky six mil. Some have tried to block moisture rise by epoxy sealing the top of a slab or inside a basement wall with mixed results. Slabs and below grade walls should have plastic on the outside to prevent long term issues with mold.

I think most older, southern homes do not have any mesh or rebar in the slabs or footings unless they are sitting on unusual materials or a steep hill side. Adding on to an existing house, I'd hammer drill for a couple 1/2 rebars to tie the new into the old on each side, epoxied into the old, encased equidistant from each other and the outside of the footing. The concrete pouring pushes the rebar out of place but a rake can be used to pull up on it then the wet concrete just poured helps to support it. Exact placement is not critical.

I use rebar stakes (20 foot sticks at about $10, cut with a band saw to about 12 inches long to support the 2x4 or 2x6 forms). Once the area is leveled, I'll build the forms from 12 foot sticks, triangulate and level those with string and board bubbles. If hammer drilling to fit anchors (better to stick in J bolts shortly after the pour), the pad needs to be bigger to ensure it doesn't break from drilling too close to the edge.

I'm using a tiller to help break up the clay surface to be leveled and compacted. Tedious, but everybody needs a little every day exercise right? Less time on the tread mill. I found tread mills have inadequate heat sinks. An easy fix to make one last, but that's another story.

Edited March 8, 2023 by MV8

[mrmustang]

Perfect, thanks

 

Bill S

[MV8]

Getting close now. Found I didn't have enough dirt for the size of the area (24wx25d plus a foot) without digging too deep. Ordered a full tandem axle load for $250. I was expecting mostly clay but this will be a lot easier to move and level. Need to till the surface again, bring it down, then incorporate the remaining sand.

Edited June 23, 2023 by MV8

[MV8]

Had to build a retaining wall to ensure support with no future erosion issues. Making the pad 3.5" thick with 2x4x12 forms and #4 rebar stakes to keep it square. Made a cement chute since the truck boom won't reach and I don't want to have it pumped. The chute is from a couple thick walled blue barrels that were free. Ends are cut off (the barrel bottoms make great drain pans as deep as you want and will last forever. The remaining tube without ends is cut down one side, laid flat, then rolled the opposite direction for a 6 foot chute about 16 inches wide with one barrel. Mostly repurposed scrap and deck screws ( I did oil it). Not perfect but not bad for a first effort (no examples found online) and it will work fine for what I need. The stand is not attached. Yes, it is that humid (camera fogged up in about 15 seconds). I could have bought a chute, but those are about $1000 depending on the length.

Edited July 21, 2023 by MV8

[wdb]

I love watching garage projects happen. The only problem is that it tempts me to post pics of our garage project, which fascinate my wife and I but bore everyone else to tears. Like vacation videos.

[MV8]

Scheduled ready mix delivery. Will also get a layer of plastic/vapor barrier. 25x26x3.5 for 7 cuyds. Had extra retaining wall block so I just kept stacking until I find another use for the excess.

Added a hanger strap to mount directly to the cement trucks chute and made a darby from more repurposed scrap 2x4 and deck board.

Edited October 6, 2023 by MV8

[MV8]

Story time. I ordered concrete from the #2 ready mix supplier in my area, mostly because they are significantly cheaper and I love to pinch and invest pennies (kids, that's the shiny things on the ground people are too lazy to bend over to pick up). I've not ordered ready mix in probably 10 years but it was always with #1 and has never been dramatic.

I requested the ready mix last week. I had to wait until today to recieve the load in the AM. I get a call from #2, asking me what he told me and debating how much I was ordering for the slab. I checked three sites with calculators and also performed the math myself resulting in approx 7 cuyds. He insists on 8.75 yds. I compromise and say 8.5 thinking it might appease, but no. He says it's on the way, I say "thank you!", then he hangs up (standard practice for him but unusual in the South, bless his heart). When he answers the phone, he lets you know his name then the name of #2 which is the same. Did I mention this winner is running for mayor of our village (every village has one).

So, my load arrives. The driver doesn't back up as well as he could so the truck chutes don't reach as far. He informs me that I cannot hang my chute on the truck chutes, along with a lesson in engineering, but it is their truck so no argument. I left it on the X brace, he starts the pour, then proceeds to completely over load it and dump out the sides (to be fair, it is hard for him to see sitting on the back of the truck). I expend considerable energy removing the chute as the clock ticks on the mix. I proceed to spread and level the remaining via wheelbarrow at around 300lbs a pass, trying to roll through the concrete he dumped across the center of the pad. Took about 20 loads to hit what the truck chute could not reach. Since time is of the essence, I return the wheelbarrow each time, then run back to what was dumped to rough level, then run back to grab the next load. The driver lifts the chute straight up to stop the remnants but does not swing it to the side, so I get ready mix on my head and down my back each time. Once the form was filled, I had another half yard or so, which I planned for, and made a pad under the water spigot behind the house. I managed to get everything placed and leveled by myself, but just because it was unusually cold this morning and the plastic vapor barrier slowed the cure. I would have liked to spend more time on the edges, but there was no time or energy left. The cost was about $1700 for over 33,000 lbs of ready mix. No charge for the customer service.

So now I wait a month or so, then order my mostly enclosed carport, building a back and wall and front for a 16 foot door.

Edited October 9, 2023 by MV8

[wdb]

Quite a day's work! When they poured our garage floor (I was not involved other than acting as the official observer) there were two guys working the job; the younger one was doing barrow duty and the other guy was spreading. The truck was one of those where the driver sits out front and the load also comes off the front, and the driver can see everything. It went smoothly but then that is what those guys do for a living.

[MV8]

I'm experienced, but having another person to do just a few light duty tasks would have been able to offset my driver's incompetence to where I had enough time and energy to get it perfect. Even so, I'm satisfied with the outcome.

 

Looking at the end result, it looks like they actually provided the 7.25 I ordered but charged me for 8.5 cuyds (closing the gap to #1's cost). I gave #2 a shot. One, and were done, so back to using #1.

[speedwagon]

At 82 I know know that the cheapest price-- is not the cheapest price but may be the cheapest.