wdb's little yellow journey

[wdb]

I suppose I should start a "build" thread; even though the car was built when I bought it, I've done a thing or two to it already and intend to do more. I'll document work on the car and modifications and so on here.

 

I'll drop a picture of the car "as received" in here so the post doesn't look bare.

 

 

[wdb]

The first thing I did was attempt to corral the copious amount of gas fumes the fuel cell was dumping into the atmosphere. My moderately well sealed garage would fill up with enough vapors overnight that the smell was quite noticeable. I found an online drawing for a vent system and made one up. Works pretty well. There is still some eau de octane floating about but much much less than before.

 

 

[wdb]

My next effort was to address the flaking powder coating on the frame. The car had mostly sat still its entire life -- it had a whopping 530 miles on the odometer when I bought it -- and some of that time must have been in damp climes. I've also heard that the powder coating may not have been of the highest quality in those days. I don't have any pictures but it was a peel-scrape-wirebrush affair followed by Eastwood Industries Rust Encapsulator applied by brush.  I really like the product, and it doesn't hurt that the company is 1/2 hour away from my house.  The result isn't a concours job but it did cover the bare bits. And this car ain't no trailer queen.

 

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html

 

 

[wdb]

And now to the reason I started this thread -- the gearbox. It's a Ford Cortina 4-speed that was last assembled in 2006 according the docs. It sat unused until about 2018 or 2019, at which point it was fitted to the car. During that extended period of time I suspect all of the seals and gaskets dried out, because it leaks everywhere it is possible for it to leak. I mean it.

 

I wanted to pull the gearbox to reseal it and assumed that meant engine out. However I read a BaT article about someone having pulled a Caterham gearbox out the bottom and thought I'd try that first. tl;dr is that it can be done. But don't. I'll be pulling the engine next.

 

 

Edited April 11, 2023 by wdb

[IamScotticus]

Do you have that remote shifter contraption?

[SENC]

6 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

Do you have that remote shifter contraption?

Looks like he has the later box with the "remote" built-in to the tailshaft extension.

 

I've rebuilt a couple of the early ones, fairly straightforward to work on and in, only a few small bits to be aware of/keep your eye open for when opening and disassembling to avoid loss.  If you aren't aware and don't have a good manual, drop me a note and I'll be glad to share what I have.

 

As for leaks, there are 2 primary spots to be aware of: 1, the rear seal in the tailshaft extension will wear unevenly or become distorted if sat for long and, if heavily used, the propshaft yoke can also become grooved where it rubs on the seal - check both when apart to assess.  Replace the seal regardless. 2, one of the front lower bolt holes for connecting the bellhousing to the box actually goes all the way through to the box.  This bolt must get a sealant applied on reassembly or the box will leak even if everything else is perfect.

[wdb]

13 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

Do you have that remote shifter contraption?

 

I do. It's in a box of parts that came with the car. The shifter comes through the floor under the dash now and I am going to look into using that stuff to move it back. Or I might just cut the lever and be done with it. Still  looking into it.

 

6 hours ago, SENC said:

Looks like he has the later box with the "remote" built-in to the tailshaft extension.

 

I've rebuilt a couple of the early ones, fairly straightforward to work on and in, only a few small bits to be aware of/keep your eye open for when opening and disassembling to avoid loss.  If you aren't aware and don't have a good manual, drop me a note and I'll be glad to share what I have.

 

As for leaks, there are 2 primary spots to be aware of: 1, the rear seal in the tailshaft extension will wear unevenly or become distorted if sat for long and, if heavily used, the propshaft yoke can also become grooved where it rubs on the seal - check both when apart to assess.  Replace the seal regardless. 2, one of the front lower bolt holes for connecting the bellhousing to the box actually goes all the way through to the box.  This bolt must get a sealant applied on reassembly or the box will leak even if everything else is perfect.

 

Thanks for the information. I already sussed out the bell housing bolt. I wanted to start disassembling further but it appears as though there may be springs and such under the top cover so I am awaiting the arrival of a manual. This gearbox was literally leaking from everywhere. Every gasket, every seal. I need to make sure the vestigal breather is actually functioning.

 

I spent yesterday obtaining and assembling a 'cherry picker' and engine stand. It's been a while since I pulled an engine but the last time I did it was much more economical to rent; not anymore. Harbor Freight has put the kibosh on that I guess. I bought both from them and the quality is surprisingly good. They're upping their game. My only problem now is where to put the blasted things when I'm not using them. The garage is downright crowded at present.

 

[wdb]

Speaking of gears, I am trying to source a spare shift lever to hack up. My lever has a ball at the end; everything I see online seems to show a fork.

 

(Note: my lever has been bent for clearance by the prior owner.)

 

 

[MV8]

Look for a capri or euro granada shifter, 2000E, or Type 5 (v6 version of 2000E, not our domestic T5).

[SENC]

Here's a link to the first of 4 videos I made disassembling one of mine... you should be able to find the others from this one.  May be useful in prepping for your disassembly.

 

[MV8]

Using a torch, I'd straighten out the existing bend, then start the new bend as low as practical, just above the sealing washer with a straight shot (in neutral) to the hole in the shifter boot on the tunnel and cut a couple inches bellow the shift boot if the shifter is way too long, then taper each end so the weld is not ground away when dressing the shaft so the seal will slide over it.

 

You can support the lower end with wood 2x4 trimmed to allow clamping/holding without damage for bending.

Edited April 14, 2023 by MV8

[wdb]

Engine is now out and on the stand.  I found quite a few bolts that were not as tight as they should have been, plus one bolt that was missing entirely! This puts me in a certain frame of mind about a certain restoration shop. And that's all I'm going to say about that.

 

I put together a list of stuff I want to do. And I've been to r.d. enterprises, which is nearby, and collected some bits for sealing things up. I now know that there are 3 possible front seals for the transmission, which means I get to make the trip back over there after I do a bit of sleuthing. But it’s not the worst of drives, and I'm hopeful that the end result will be less goo where it shouldn't be.

 

Next big decision is whether to go with the heavy duty fabricated oil pan, or bite the bullet and do a dry sump. The oil pan is very vulnerable on the car, to which the current stamped steel pan can attest! I should have taken a picture but let's just say that the drain plug hex flats are no longer even.

 

Edited April 21, 2023 by wdb

[wdb]

Hmm, looks like my last post was never actually posted. Anyway, the gearbox is done-ish. I still need an input shaft seal but then that's it. I gave it a coat of paint while it was apart, and I used some copper spray gasket coating to hopefully fill some of the gaps in the coarse cast iron surfaces. I used non-hardening Permatex on threads where they are exposed to the gear oil as well. Turns out to be a surprising number of bolts.

 

 

[SENC]

Well done.  I don't see a breather bolt - but then it looks like there may be a hole in the 2nd cap that serves as the breather.  Is that correct?  Is it baffled?

[wdb]

3 hours ago, SENC said:

Well done.  I don't see a breather bolt - but then it looks like there may be a hole in the 2nd cap that serves as the breather.  Is that correct?  Is it baffled?

Yep. The 'breather' is a ~1/8" hole in that steel plate, with a baffle under it to keep the splash from simply flying straight out. I thought it might be blocked and therefore the cause of the gearbox leaking literally everywhere, but it wasn't. I think the previous assembler was just a bit too enamored of RTV. The gaskets were literally impregnated with the stuff and I was cleaning excess off from everywhere. The tailshaft seal, which I thought had melted, was actually oozing excess sealant. It would not surprise me to learn that they used an entire tube of the stuff. Whatever type they used, it did nothing whatsoever to stop oil seepage past the gaskets.

[SENC]

People will do some crazy stuff.  All that should need is the paper gaskets and some wellseal or aviation gasket goop.  If the breather is functional there shouldn't be any pressure to speak of forcing fluids through reasonably sealed surfaces, and the only other places for leaks are the single bellhousing bolt that enters box and the tailshaft - which with a new seal and good propshaft shouldn't leak.

[wdb]

At least 3 of the 5 bolts securing the tail housing are open into the gearbox. I didn’t check the other two. Also on my setup the 3 bolts fixing the lever housing in place at the back end of the tail shaft also open into the oil. I’m probably overreacting due to the mess but I only want to do this once. 
 

On another note I came up with a possible shift lever. Maybe even a ‘short shift’ rig. More on that as I get more information. As often seems to be the case with these little lovelies, there may be some fabrication involved. 

Edited April 26, 2023 by wdb

[wdb]

Well well. Today was interesting.

• I found two battery cable ends that came off in my hand after a gentle tug. Not mentioning any names but look at earlier posts for hints as to the perpetrator. I reattached them and soldered them up and they're good to go.
• I found what is almost certainly a leaky front brake caliper.
• I found a leaking shock absorber.

This is turning into more of a project than I first imagined.

[IamScotticus]

7 bonding

[slowdude]

15 hours ago, wdb said:

Well well. Today was interesting.

• I found two battery cable ends that came off in my hand after a gentle tug. Not mentioning any names but look at earlier posts for hints as to the perpetrator. I reattached them and soldered them up and they're good to go.
• I found what is almost certainly a leaky front brake caliper.
• I found a leaking shock absorber.

This is turning into more of a project than I first imagined.

I'm in the same boat.

 

Slow and patience and having the right tool for the job has helped.

 

I'm seeing a similar trend of "two steps forward, one step back" with these cars. I'm sure it can make you crazy trying to trace it down.

 

For now I am trying to drive it as much as I can and make a mental list of items to replace for the September track day. I hope you don't go too crazy trying to fix everything. There will always be a rattle, or when doing 80 and passing by a truck the car gets blasted by the wind and you wonder if suspension is going etc.

 

I hope you get a chance to bond with the car soon and get some miles in!