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Posted

For my engine refresh 

I an considering various levels of disassembly for cleaning an engine that isn't particularly dirty, actually very clean, but has sat for 10 years with oil and coolant.  Coolant part of the time as I drained it at some point.  The water pump was gummed up.  I did keep the cylinders oiled and turning.

 

I am considering doing anything from a professional cabinet clean to a back yard trash can hot tank to a light bench top oil and galley and cooling jacket scrubbing.

 

None of my decisions will be based on cost, bur attention to detail and the experience and satisfaction of doing something well. 

 

I am learning that for many engines, some more so, that removal of the cam bearings is necessary to ensure clean out of that oil circuit under it.  I hope to not have to do this on the Sourh American AX.  Other than removing and pressing seals and freeze plugs, I'm not confident I can drive /press those bearings properly.  

 

Any opinions on being able to clean that circuit wirh bearings in place?

Posted

So this engine hasn’t run in ten years? If that’s the case I would send it off to a machine shop for a hot tank and cam bearings, freeze plugs. The bores may need a hone. Get the deck checked to see if it’s flat. Then new bearings and rings. While I had it apart , inspection of the valve train would be a smart move… I had a Cortina block in my FormulaFord, it used to be fairly inexpensive 30 years ago. Good Luck..

Posted

I'm considering sending off the head to a specialist for valve guides and seats.

Someone had plugged the side coolant to intake manifold port.  I want to start using that with a surge tank.  I want that unplugged.

Posted

How did they plug that port?  epoxy?  FF engine builders used to just sandwich a piece of beer can with the gasket, now we have gaskets without the hole

sometimes fill the bottom af manifold with epoxy, but I never saw one filled on the head side

 

I don't think anybody uses hot tank anymore--you can't get the nasty chemicals

A lot have gone to baking the blocks, then shot blasting it     they look like new

almost any good cleaning process will trash the cam bearings

don't forget to take out all the end plugs in the oil passages, including the ball bearing at the back

Posted (edited)

Well, the head wasn't plugged.  Maybe its my other head.  But I did find plenty of gunk in the port. 

20230702_172127.thumb.jpg.dcc024c2a2cf7c6ee5a3b452766284c1.jpg

A full cleaning the block and head will get.

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

The cost to have the shop install the cam bearings and new coolant plugs is minimal. The cam bearings must be clocked correctly to align with the oil passages in the block and there is a special tool for installing them.

 

I think the biggest issue for automotive chemicals these days is proper disposal.

Posted

not staked, because it's covering a low pressure passage, but still a real PITA

if you can put it in a mill, a cobalt drill at low speed with lots of pressure should work

most people just go at it with a dremel, then drill to 7/16 and tap 1/4 NPT

 

the one on the front marked X is where a lot of FF builders put the oil back in with dry sump systems.  eliminates a couple of corners in the flow path

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Posted

@7Westfield

Thanks for the illustrations.

I Will be dry supming my engine and that front port is a very desirable place to port into.  I have a 4 port pump to do that with.  Looking at it, that front port is behind the pully belt.  I don't know how to work around that. 

I looked ay many FFs DS and, suprisingly,  all I've seen are using the 5 port.  With that being the common pump (that I've seen) I suppose the 5 port is adequate for 99% road use, with an occasional spirited showing off.  So I have a 5 port too.  If I feel the need to port the front, I can when I know how to route the line.

Everyone: sorry not selling either pump at this time.

Posted

If it was mine, I would have it cleaned at a machine shop and new bearings and freeze plugs installed. I would also pull the oil gally plugs. If you do not want to replace the bearings. use a wire brush like a gun cleaning tool and compressed air.  

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