1986 Caterham BDR, a new old car

[Wayne Stambaugh]

2 hours ago, MV8 said:

Yes, missing wing supports and should be attached. You can see the support and mounting hardware on this '66 (grommet,washer, pan head screws). Wings were reinforced from '88-on so no need for the rear braces (from '88 assembly guide excerpt).

I think I saw a couple of brackets made from maybe 1/2” square tubing. I didn’t know what they were for but these brackets my be the rear front wing brackets. Neither of the front wings are drilled outboard for the 1/4” galvanized bolts for attachment to the front and rear brackets. This is just more evidence that the car was hardly driven. At speed the front wings would have surely lifted off the braces. 

[Wayne Stambaugh]

On 11/10/2023 at 10:34 AM, inchoate said:

Your hoses look exactly like mine.  I've never had any leakage or issues of any kind with them.  I guess you could replace them if you're taking the heads off but I've never seen the need.

I think I’ll pass on replacing them. They are really kind of uniqie hoses. Unlike a radiator hose or hydraulic hose, these hoses don’t move, they are not under pressure or vacuum not to mention they would probably be a pain in the neck to remove and replace. I don’t see any cracks or damage so as they say If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

[MV8]

Your call of course. They are under dynamic crankcase pressure which can vary greatly and as you said, they are hard as glass (assume you were referring to the clear hose) from age and 40 miles of hot oil. Don't ignore any oil smells. Shorting out the alternator and splashing the header, some glass hose crumbs in the oil return and loss of oil are possibilities.

 

There is a reason the clear hose is unusual (though the Chinese ebay oil breather/catch cans include it). Pressure is not an issue for reinforced pvc when kept within the temp range (150f max for this type) and used with compatible fluids (not oil). The hose becomes glass like then it no longer meets any of the specs. If it gets bumped or pushed with a stray thumb, it will likely fail soon if not immediately fracture.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/reinforced-hose/color~clear/

 

Replacement is easy. Loosen the clamps and slide out of the way, cut vertically at the barbs with a box cutter, put a short piece of rope around it to pull, and it might come out on one piece.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

On 11/10/2023 at 11:26 PM, IamScotticus said:

This is the standard flared wing bolt through the wing support.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/bolts/491-roof-bolt-m6-x-25.html?search_query=wing+bolt&results=303

Thats great! Before I order them I’m going to go through the extra parts and see I they may be here. Since I think the braces are here, it stands to reason the bolts may be here too.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Here are a few pictures of the inside of the cylinders. Internally I don’t think there are any rust or corrosion issues.It was tough to get a good cylinder wall picture. The light reflection was so bad the pictures turned while. I’ll assume that means the bore is shines too much.

 

The first pic is the cylinder wall where it meets the head, the second is obviously the valves. The thing in the sparkplug hole is the probe shaft. In the last picture you are seeing the top of an intake valve through the intake port.

 

I took many more pictures but I think these are enough explain. the conditon of trhe cylinders.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

I believe I solved the mystery of the rear wing braces. I remembered seeing these two parts when loading up the car and the pieces that went with it. These braces are undrilled so I assume you were supposed to fit and drill to fit.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Earlier in this thread there was mention of whether the engine had Misab plates between the carbs and the intake or whether the carbs were bolted directly to the intake. There was a nylon looking plate about 3/16” thick with an oring on both sides located in grooves on both sides of the plate. Should I get new oring for this set up or buy different plates? I notice there seems to be multiple types.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Another thing that needs attention are the original Spax shocks. They look like the oil has been running out of them for years. Should I replace these with new Spax shocks or is there a better option. Remember for starters this car won’t be on the track. I need something more general purpose.

[MV8]

My understanding is that Spax will rebuild the higher end, fully adjustable dampers. I expect all that you need are the seals and oil. Gax is another option for replacement. All options are likely to be at least $800 by the time all four reach your door. Imho, the most costly part of a typical CAT.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

15 minutes ago, MV8 said:

My understanding is that Spax will rebuild the higher end, fully adjustable dampers. I expect all that you need are the seals and oil. Gax is another option for replacement. All options are likely to be at least $800 by the time all four reach your door. Imho, the most costly part of a typical CAT.

I expected that. I looked carefully at these and they don't look rebuildable but I could be wrong. The way the tube section is crimped together makes me doubt that they can.

[Wayne Stambaugh]

On 11/10/2023 at 3:27 PM, panamericano said:

I had both those Dunpops and Falken Azenis (sp?) 650K (?) on a Miata for autocross and street.  Felt and scored the same.  Falkens cheaper.

I think I’ll go with your recommendation, I’m going to run the Dunpops. I’ll put the money I would have spent on tires into new shocks instead. It seems I’m going to have plenty of things to spend money on.

 

[inchoate]

My motor had misab plates that were in pretty rough shape so I replaced them.  I got a kit that had the plates and all of the mounting hardware but I can't remember where I got it from at the moment.  It's a somewhat finicky job but not too hard if you've got the manifolds off of the car.

 

edit:

 

It looks like I got the sandwich plates and hardware from Burton Power but my guess is that you can probably get the same stuff on this side of the pond, not sure where though.

Edited November 13, 2023 by inchoate

[Wayne Stambaugh]

38 minutes ago, inchoate said:

My motor had misab plates that were in pretty rough shape so I replaced them.  I got a kit that had the plates and all of the mounting hardware but I can't remember where I got it from at the moment.  It's a somewhat finicky job but not too hard if you've got the manifolds off of the car.

 

edit:

 

It looks like I got the sandwich plates and hardware from Burton Power but my guess is that you can probably get the same stuff on this side of the pond, not sure where though.

I have seen a few different types but I guess the bottom line is that they give the mount a little flex and it should certainly seal better and vibrate less.

[toldfield]

You might try

 

Dave Bean

https://www.davebean.com/

 

Pierce Manifolds

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/SOFT_MOUNT_SET_FOR_WEBER_DCOE_99005_145_p/99005.145.htm

 

 

 

[Wayne Stambaugh]

7 hours ago, toldfield said:

You might try

 

Dave Bean

https://www.davebean.com/

 

Pierce Manifolds

https://www.piercemanifolds.com/SOFT_MOUNT_SET_FOR_WEBER_DCOE_99005_145_p/99005.145.htm

 

 

 

Thanks for the links! These look like two vendors I needed to know about. I’m still learning who has what and where to go to get it. Thanks again!

[IamScotticus]

15 hours ago, inchoate said:

my guess is that you can probably get the same stuff on this side of the pond, not sure where though.

Pegasus or Dave Bean

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Started the steering wheel spacer this afternoon. It will give me an inch more length. I didn't want to over do it. I finished the ring but didn't get the bolt circle drilled. I will do that tomorrow. If it feels right I'll have it black anodized at the machine shop I where I used to work. I get somewhat special treatment there. No minimum charge on anodizing.

 

[Wayne Stambaugh]

Tonight I finished up th spacer. Here are a few pictures. I don’t have the availabilty of CNC machine tools any more but conventional stuff still gets the job done.

[IamScotticus]

I'll take 50.

[pethier]

My spacer goes the other way, moving the wheel closer to the dash.  The spacer is about 1-1/2 inches.  This makes up most of the 2 inches that the quick-release moved the wheel aft.  The other half-inch I made up by adjusting the shaft forward.  I wind up with the wheel just where it started, but now it is removable.  

 

I have finished testing the prototype, 3D printed hollow.  My SIL is working on the final one, solid ABS.

 

I may shoot pix tomorrow.  The prototype is a silly green color.

 

I know how to use machine tools; I just don't have any except for a drill=press.  Good thing my SIL loves to play with 3D printing.

 

 

Edited November 21, 2023 by pethier