IamScotticus Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Anyone using this? https://evanscoolants.co.uk/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 No experience with the waterless product. It would be good to know what affect mixing it with water has. For example, away from home, not carrying enough waterless coolant onboard to replenish, and the car has a leak that has been corrected but the level is now too low to drive home. Probably should dump it all for standard premix to get home, then repeat the conversion process to waterless. It is notable that anything run through an engine for a time is no longer considered epa friendly to dump anywhere (no longer pure product). Evans coolant additive breaks the surface tension for greater thermal transfer. I've used that for cooling problems as a temp temp fix. It doesn't replace glycol and has no rust preventive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 A few of us on here have used Evans, including me. Do a search for "Evans." I ran it in my old yellow SVT Zetec Caterham for a while. The idea was to lower the pressure on hose connections and improve cooling efficiency. You are supposed to reverse the coolant flow around the engine to get full benefits but I was experimenting and did not do that. I do run in it my V12 cars as they have a tendency to shoot up in temperatures the moment you hit traffic and airflow through the radiator, as originally designed, is limited plus the cooling system pressures are insanely high so hose blow-offs are a significant risk. Evans works well as you can radically lower the pressure in the system as the boiling point is so high - boiling point is 375degF. Its also great if you have a cooling challenged race car - for example some race cars do not run fans to provide cooling flow to the radiator and rely on limited operating time stationary (its a weight saving thing). However, most tracks have banned it as it is incredibly slippy once spilt. If changing from regular coolant/water to Evans and back then you are supposed to use a special flush/prep solution to clear out the cooling system. Mixing it is a bad thing but I am not sure what the technical background to that is. It was an interesting experiment but I did not see the benefits in my Caterham application. My view has always been that you should make sure your cooling system works properly before you try to use something like Evans as a fix. The last thing against it is that it is expensive. Last I looked it was $50 a gallon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlB Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Evans waterless cool is Propylene glycol. Regular anti-freeze is ethylene glycol. It might have a surfactant in it to break the surface tension, but the real point as Croc pointed out is the high boiling point. It does not have the heat transfer rate of water, and the coolant temperature will be higher, but because of the high boiling point the system will not run under pressure. one of the unique applications of it was in high performance engines with localized cooling issues. Water would boil in the engine water jacket in a localized spot. An example might be around the exhaust valve, and then condense back to liquid. The result could be detonation. In the 1980s the guy who started this company and the reverse cooling idea got money from GM to work on it, and Chevy built a production engine with reverse cooling for a few years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 (edited) On 2/23/2024 at 4:48 AM, MV8 said: No experience with the waterless product. It would be good to know what affect mixing it with water has. One gets to buy another $100 of Evans coolant and flush. I suspect that with lower pressure on the hoses, the use of less flexible clamp rings like the Gates power grips are good permanent solutions. Edited February 26 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 As permanent as the hose, radiator, or water pump. Thermoset plastic clamps, when installed properly, should work as well as any worm gear clamp but the worm gear is more permanent, since worm gear can be reused. If the hose softens, reducing the clamp load, worm can be tightened but thermoset is "set" with the initial heating and cannot be tightened. Thermoset "throwaway" clamps were probably developed with an eye toward oems as a huge cost saving measure. It makes sense from an epa perspective if cars are totaled or repaired with thermoset and not pickups or some other vehicle that is kept and maintained for decades. Most plastics made these days don't age well by design, so these probably crumble and fail on their own after so many years, but they are light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 I used Evans coolant in a fresh engine build for my Europa. Spent a lot of time chasing coolant leaks until I gave up and went back to “ordinary” long life coolant. Instantly, no more leaks. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Ok, but what is "ordinary"? OAT? GREEN Ethel Glycol? There isnt a standard anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 I use the “blue” coolant used in Volvos and BMWs. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowdude Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 K Series was reccomended to have "pink" type coolant, same as in porsches. Radtec confirmed pink or red works fine. I guess it's more aluminum engine safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 OATs are excellent as long as all the components in the system can tolerate it. The negative is they will congeal if mixed with anything else. I guess you could say that about other coolants as well. But OATs like Dex- Cool seem to be the worst. One might think, with cars like 7s, things tend to break at the worst time. Using a coolant that is available everywhere, and compatible wirh many materials solves a lot of potential problems. How does Blue tolerate temporary mixing wirh Ethelene Glycol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillerB Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 I've had excellent success with this: https://vpracingfuels.com/product/stay-frosty-racing-coolant/?c=361& No glycol, 100% water-based, non-toxic, biodegradable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 I would opt for this https://vpracingfuels.com/product/stay-frosty-hi-performance-formula/?c=495& Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 These products offer minimal to no freeze protection. If the temps go down, you may toast rads, heater cores and possibly engine blocks. Just an FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted March 3 Author Share Posted March 3 I saw that. the purple version of VP Frosty only protects to zero degrees F. The Blue racing version has no freeze protection, but is more efficient. I can deal with the freezing issue, what I don't see mentioned are the pressure and boiling point numbers. WTH? perhaps its not an issue if the system is sealed properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillerB Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 FWIW... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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