TEM Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Well, not good news from Burton. "Im sorry we are unable to supply a replacement kit that is a very early deep kit which we dont supply my advice would be to talk to either kelvedon lotus or QED motorsport or contact the owners club they may have the parts or may of had them re made possibly." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Thanks SENC, I take a closer look at the seal and yoke later today. I have not reported an oil leak in that area because I could not identify it if I had one. The inside of the tunnel was god awful! There was greasy black sludge all over the tunnel, front to back. This same black sludge was everywhere in the car; tunnel, engine bay, foot wells, etc. First pic is the tunnel. the very front part of the tunnel, in front of the trans mount was cleaned. The second picture is the drivers foot well. The cleaning has started in the large area, the small area under the pedals is the original black sludge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Greasy black sludge is great for rust prevention! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Indeed but, not in the footwell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe7 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 Did you try SJ Sports Cars UK? Not sure if this what you are looking for. They have a 3 piece kit: PP w/platen, disc, T/O bearing for UK 198 about $250. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 2 Author Share Posted July 2 Hi Joe, Do you have an SJ part number or link to the kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 2 Share Posted July 2 5 hours ago, TEM said: Well, not good news from Burton. "Im sorry we are unable to supply a replacement kit that is a very early deep kit which we dont supply my advice would be to talk to either kelvedon lotus or QED motorsport or contact the owners club they may have the parts or may of had them re made possibly." It is apparent that they do not have an early, deep diaphragm kit for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe7 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 SJ Part # for the kit is SJ036Q0008. They also sell the parts separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 3 Author Share Posted July 3 Thanks Joe7. I'll reach out to SJ and get confirmation on fit and quote. Did you use this kit on your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe7 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 No. It was 14 year's ago when i did mine. So I don't clearly recall where I got a stock set from. My best guess is from Dave Bean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 @SevenAmerica - John - do you have any known sources for S2 clutch kits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anduril3019 Posted July 3 Share Posted July 3 Phil Bass, aka Cortina Phil, in Southern California, is a great source for used parts. I realize you already own a used clutch! However, he's also good at mixing and matching and figuring out what you can do with whatever you happen to have in terms of transmission, input shaft, bell housing, flywheel, clutch, etc.. Might be worth a try: cortinaphil@cox.net 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenAmerica Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Hi Henry - depends on your engine/transmission - my BMC Sprite powered Seven uses a… Sprite or MG Midget clutch kit. So mine’s easy! You’d probably find success with http://leechapmanracing.com or https://lotus7.com/Home.html. Either can certainly point you in a direction. cheers! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 16 Author Share Posted July 16 OK, all parts have arrived and I'm now putting everything back together. New clutch plate feels like brake pads, dry and rough. My old plate feels smooth and waxy (not oily, not sticky, fingers just don't slide smoothly over the surface). What ever was on there must have permeated into the compound. Glad I bought a new disc. I'm having trouble mating the transmission to the engine. With the PP bolts loose, I can get the transmission to mate nicely to the engine so I know everything fits and there is no obstruction. But when I tighten the PP bolts, I can get the transmission splines to mate with the clutch disc but just can't get the shaft in the hole. I don't have an alignment tool so I have been trying to align by eye. This is obviously not working. I don't have a rod the correct diameter and I have already tried everything that I have that's close. Not having this rotten $2 tool has wasted hours of my time. Does any one know the Dorman part number for the alignment tool for our engines? I see dozens advertised but very few show dimensions. Or if anyone has any tricks, I'm all ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 There is a bearing/bushing in there - it isn't off kilter and blocking you, is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 Take a piece of thin, stiff rod. Drill rod is perfect. Lay it on the clutch plate’s splines and see where it points. Try it in three different positions. When all three points are equi-distant around the spigot bearing, the disc is aligned. While having the correct tool is quick and easy, I have done lots of clutches by eye and a rod with no problems. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 Bushing appears correct and I can see tell tales of the spline shaft hitting off center so I pretty sure it's just an alignment issue. I'm trying a couple of different ideas including jb's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 Eyeballing it is going to be an exercise in frustration IMESHO*. I've chucked up a piece of wooden dowel in a drill and held a file against it to make clutch alignment tools. I've also wrapped tape around one alignment tool to make it work in another situation. * In My Ever So Humble Opinion 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7Westfield Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 take a pair of 3/8 bolts--4-5" long and cut the heads off you then put them in the lowest holes in the bellhousing--3+9 o'clock they slide into the holes on the engine, carrying the weight so you can line things up easier put the disc in by eye, and tighten the pp bolts just finger tight should be able to wiggle things enough to get input shaft in, then slide gearbox off and tighten PP bolts dowel and tape also works 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted July 17 Author Share Posted July 17 Wow, how easily it all goes together when everything is aligned. Thank you all for the suggestions. I tried a couple of them. What worked best for me was using a 7/16" (3/8" drive) socket on a short, non-wobble extension inserted into the pilot hole. Other sockets had a tighter fit but this one allowed just the right of slop so that if it hit the disc splines on one side but not the other then a quick tap until it didn't touch on either side. Did that all the way around and the transmission slid on smoothly and easily. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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