Carz01 Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 Hi folks, I’m looking for some guidance. My BDR was working well. However, when I tried to operate it today, it starts fine, but I cannot get the car into gear, forward or reverse, with the engine running. i can get it into all gears when not running, and if I place in gear and hit the starter it will move. Everything had been working well until today. Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated. The car has a clutch cable, not hydraulic and seems ok, but I’m curious if there are any adjustments I can check. Thanks in advance for your help. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 (edited) I don't know what trans you have. There should be a jamb nut adjustment where cable passes through at the bellhousing flange. Two wrenches are needed; one to hold the nut nearest the trans and another to loosen away from the first. Edited July 23 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 Hi @MV8 I have a 4sp, so I’ll check the cable as you’ve mentioned. Any advice on how best to adjust it? thanks in advance, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 What free play do you have, you always want some. If you have too much free play you clutch will not be fully disengaging. I would turn the adjuster out until all the free play is gone then turn it in one full turn. Give that a try and see of your clutch works. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 I agree with Graham. Check the play at the top of the clutch pedal. Tony Weale suggests a "a 1/2 inch" but that seems excessive to me. The barrel end should be greased and very easy to rotate on the pedal bolt to prevent bending and braking of the wires where they crimp into it. This bolt is also a jamb arrangement to the pedal. The cable wears on the sleeve and "stretches" with use from the air gaps between the wires being reduced. A spray lube can be used on the assembled cable but it is tedious and messy without a wrap around the cable end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 It seems odd to me that it was working well one day and not the next. It suggests a component failure rather than a cable out of adjustment. Can you tell us more about how it shifted prior to the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 (edited) Thanks for the feedback, I’ll check the adjustment as a first step. Prior to this occurrence it shifted fine. When I looked at the linkage it seemed a bit loose, but I didn’t have any specs to work with. More to come. looking at this, the the jamb nut was in fact loose, so I’ll adjust there to start. In the picture below you can see there are quite a few threads showing on the barrel. Since I’m starting from scratch any recommended order to set the linkage? Edited July 24 by Carz01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 (edited) Pull the cable sheath forward with a little effort to see how much the thick nut moves away from the bell housing. How far will out? If the end of the threaded sleeve comes out of the bell, consider fitting a new cable. If you can't and the movement is more than a 1/2 inch, rotate the thick nut to make it a 1/2 inch or less. Hold the thick and just snug the thin against it. It doesn't take much effort to set the thin nut. Edited July 24 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 I’ve checked the cable and the threaded sleeve did not come out of the bell but, I was able to pull it out over a 1/4 inch. So I’ve adjusted the nuts and have about a 1/4 inch now. However after adjusting I’m still unable to get the car in gear when running. When stopped no issue, I can select all gears. I’m thinking clutch replacement, unless there are other things to check. Since I’ve never replaced a Caterham clutch, what’s the difficulty scale, and any special tools needed? thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Too high an idle speed can make gear selection more difficult when stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted July 25 Author Share Posted July 25 Idle seems ok, maybe 650 rpm, I’ve also tried varying the revs to see if it made any difference, and it didn’t. I’ll need to get my scope and place into the bell housing to investigate more I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 25 Share Posted July 25 (edited) Roll the car back and forth a foot or so in neutral to feel how much effort there is (not running). Have someone put it in 1st gear and press the clutch, then try to roll it again (not running). Any difference in effort? Edited July 25 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 (edited) Cable adjustment is a constant thing, it's going to stretch out. You will either run out of adjustment or it will snap, whichever happens first, so replacement in-between those two eventualities is ideal. A clutch replacement is an engine and transmission removal job. this means: definitely resurface the flywheel possibly replace the pressure plate (curly finger fingers or platen for flat faced bearing) definitely replace the throw out bearing definitely replace the pilot/spigot bearing definitely replace the clutch disc 190mm/7.5" Dia, 7/8"x 20 spline (4spd), Burton C752AF definitely replace the transmission fluid (Redline MTL is great stuff) definitely replace transmission front and rear oil seals definitely lube the prop shaft definitely replace the shifter saddle, if you have one definitely replace the clutch cable (5 ft)FKC1020 Escort Mk1 1600 burton CCESCYB1 possibly replace the cable speedo with a GPS unit (plug the cable drive opening) possibly replace engine and transmission mounts The good news is after all this you should have a working clutch, if you don't over tighten the bell housing bolts (yes, that is a thing). But before you go to all this trouble, just replace the clutch cable. It can stretch out unexpectedly and yes, snapping off at the top eyelet is a thing, especially with the later cheap reproductions (First Line). good info here: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14232-xflow-clutch-replacement/ https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/27661-clutch-release-bearing/#comment-493397 For how-to answers for your clutch job, a good start is Haynes Ford Escort MK1 1100 & 1300 1968- 74. That book should cover your clutch, transmission and most of your engine. Plenty on Ebay. I've bought many books from UK on Ebay. Another must have book is Tony Weale's 7 Restoration and Maintenance Edited July 26 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted July 26 Author Share Posted July 26 (edited) Thanks @MV8 and @IamScotticus for your feedback and guidance. I’ll be getting back into it later today and post an update. Edited July 26 by Carz01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Cables get a bad rep when it is the design that is the problem. A well designed cable system can last much longer than hydraulic. I've put 371,000 miles on an original cable (not a caterham) and adjusted it twice, but lost count of the number of hydraulics I've replaced on my miatas with nowhere near as many miles. My point is there is room for improvement but not much demand when a hydraulic system is available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 Keeping a spare cable in the boot and the nut wrench in a tool kit is essential 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowdude Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 @Carz01, I'm 3/4 of the way through reassembly on a clutch job and will have to adjust the clutch. I may be up your way in 2 weeks or so. If it's still giving you an issue we can get together and I can try and help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted August 2 Author Share Posted August 2 @slowdude thanks for the offer, was delayed in getting back into it, but I’ll definitely let you know. I appreciate it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirkinBernie Posted August 4 Share Posted August 4 Back in my late teens I had a mid-engine single seat autocross special. It had a Corvair engine and a VW gearbox. It used a very light steel flywheel and a VW clutch. One day I went to drive it on the trailer at home after it had not run in a while. Just as you described, it would not go into gear with the engine running. I could feel and see that the hydraulic release was working, so concluded that somehow the clutch disc had become stuck (rusted?) on the surface of the flywheel or pressure plate. So I got in, put it in gear, pushed in the clutch, turned on the ignition and had my dad tow me down the driveway on a rope behind his '68 Fleetwood. Needless to say my hand was on the kill switch and my right foot hovering over the brake pedal. Well, after a couple of revs, the engine kicked into life and the clutch popped loose. It worked just fine afterward. The reason for the tow was that while the car had a starter, we used a jump battery to start it at events so the car didn't have to carry a heavy battery. So, if you are as crazy as I was at the ripe old age of 19, and if your car was parked for a while you might try this. Dunno how the starter would like it, but there is always a tow rope and Dad's Fleetwood..... Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carz01 Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 Just a brief update, the cause seems to have been the pressure plate stuck to the flywheel. The clutch was out of adjustment as well with no free play. After running the car for 20 minutes the issue resolved, and I was able to shift, run and drive. Will see what happens. New clutch cable also coming, Thanks for everyone’s help 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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