420S build in Ohio

[hyper7]

[hyper7]

Got the rear wing piping/fixings and the correct silencer yesterday, so I am just a few short steps away from starting this thing up....

 

my short "to do" list

 

- secure handbrake cable

- bleed brakes again

- tighten rear hub nuts

- washer fluid bottle and fuel filter cover

- glue remaining carpet in boot area

- aim/tighten headlights

- replace mirror glass on drivers mirror 

- steering column bushing....shipped a month ago, still waiting on it.

 

- license plate bracket (sent an email to rocky mountain about that)

 

- put in gas

- pray

- start it up

- drive it around the block without dying.

[CBuff]

12 minutes ago, hyper7 said:

 

- license plate bracket (sent an email to rocky mountain about that)

This was one of my bauble and bolt ons.  Works great. 
 

I noticed on my car the washer jet shot directly into the windshield rubber (no where near the glass). It was a pita to dismantle and try and get it angled up. Not sure if this is already installed but if not maybe worth proactively getting it aimed. (And yes I am sure I will catch heat for caring about the washer jet angle). 

[hyper7]

the sprayers were already in place on the chassis at delivery, do i will have to go through the same disassembly if mine are not well aligned.  i haven't looked closely at them, but i take it that means you can't do the standard "needle in the nozzle" trick?

[CBuff]

I am not familiar but interested in that trick

[CBuff]

I just googled. 

 

 

might try this as I do t love how far mine sticks outs now. 

[hyper7]

1 hour ago, CBuff said:

I just googled. 

 

 

might try this as I do t love how far mine sticks outs now. 

Yep, that's exactly what I was talking about

[JohnCh]

1 hour ago, hyper7 said:

- washer fluid bottle and fuel filter cover

 

 

 Is Caterham finally fitting a fuel filter?

[hyper7]

Ugh.  Fuel FILLER cover.

[JohnCh]

36 minutes ago, hyper7 said:

Ugh.  Fuel FILLER cover.

 

I should have figured that out.  

[CBuff]

Well I feel so dumb. That totally worked with the windshield washer jet. Over thought it as usual. Well learning is a good thing I guess. Sadly it’s usually accompanied with feeling like an idiot. 

[hyper7]

Happens to the best of us - and i did have to adjust mine up quite a bit as well, they weren't even hitting the windshield initially. safety pin worked great.

 

 

 

 

[hyper7]

It lives!!! (and then dies)

 

I put in gas, and got it started up yesterday - but it died immediately unless i hit the gas, so i clearly need to adjust the throttle a bit, no biggie.

 

Still waiting on the updated battery tray from Time Machines (but have the battery installed and sitting there, just not being held down very well.  might zip tie the shit out of it until the battery tray arrives.

 

Also still waiting on the damn steering column bushing that "shipped" on 9/16 

 

otherwise list is down to:
replace mirror glass

license plate bracket that rocky mountain shipped out yesterday

wiper switch that was backordered

 

then i just need to start the process of getting it registered...which hopefully won't be too bad (but not 100% sure because the self-build and salvage title links are the same...and everything refers to "existing title" which obviously i don't have...)

 

 

Edited October 23 by hyper7

[hyper7]

Went for the maiden drive just now.

 

Speedometer isn't working - probably need to test the sensor (I was being lazy and didn't test it)

 

Brakes feel pretty soft - is that normal or do I need to bleed again?

 

Otherwise, my feet are too fat and hit multiple pedals at once.  Ordered some sock shoes to try again next time.

 

Hand brake STILL isn't holding the car, even though it's like all the way adjusted tight 🫤

Edited October 26 by hyper7

[KnifeySpoony]

rebleed - the pedal will never be rock hard with the shitty flexing rear sliders but it should be decent

 

Narrow shoes - yes - I can only drive it in proper racing booties. And even then I had to bend my throttle pedal to the right to make it easier to drive

 

re: handbrake - I found that mine would barely hold the car until the rear pads were bedded.

[CBuff]

Even with the “correct” number for my wheel and tire size. My Speedo was still off by 10mph at 60.  I have 13” staggered zzs wheels. 
 

I had the same problem. Even when I entered the ppu for a 420 with 13” staggered zzs set up it was still wrong. I tried to do the math to adjust based on gps vs what it was reading.  Ended up just adjust checking adjusting checking. And came up with this ppu that pretty spot on.  If you have different tires and wheels it will be different. But once you get comfortable entering the ppu you can check with against gps (I just used Waze or Google maps that reads out your speed ).  
    ** use caution when driving and looking at your phone.  
 

    042081
 

    here is also an automatic way to calibrate the Caerbont speedo:
 

    Setting The Calibration – Inputting The Calibration Number / Pulses Per Unit Distance. There are two methods to setting the calibration: (i) Manually inputting the PPU number. (ii) Using ‘drive to set’ facility. 
 

    The calibration mode is selected by switching on the ignition while simultaneously pressing the trip reset button. The pointer will travel to full scale and return to zero. If the button is released before the pointer returns to zero, the manual setting procedure will be selected and the LCD (odo.) will read ‘SET PPU’ If the button is released after the pointer returns to zero the ‘drive to set’ mode is selected and the LCD will show ‘DTS PPU.’ At this point, pressing the reset button momentarily will toggle between ‘SET PPU’ and DTS PPU’ .
 

    Manually inputting  the PPU Number Set the LCD to display ‘SET PPU’ as described above. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will show the calibration number currently set. Each digit within the calibration number will flash in turn for approximately 2 seconds. When a digit is flashing, each depression of the reset button will increment the digit by one. Once the last (right-most) digit has been set/reset, the whole number will flash. Press the reset button and the LCD will display ‘DONE.’ After 3 seconds the LCD will display ‘SET PPU,’ the setting is now complete. Switch off the ignition.
 

    Drive To Set PPU: Set the LCD to display ‘DTS PPU’ as described. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will display ‘∗00000.’ Drive exactly one mile. While driving, the odometer will count the number of pulses generated by the sender. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will display ‘DONE.’ Within a few seconds the LCD will return to the ‘DTS PPU’ display. The setting is now complete. Switch off the ignition. 
 

    IMPORTANT – When driving in ‘drive to set’ mode the speedometer will register but not accurately. The speedometer cannot be used on a public highway in this mode. 
 
 

[hyper7]

I lifted the back end up and adjusted the handbrake even more - i don't think I physically CAN adjust it any more, but I can still roll the car with the handbrake pulled.

 

I also adjusted the speed sensor and got it lighting up on every tooth, so we'll see next time I blat around the neighborhood.

 

Also my sock shoe things showed up - we'll see how they work.  Might still need piloti or other "driving" shoes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLNYH1TW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[hyper7]

I think I've got the handbrake set up well now.  I found someone else's post with some steps that seems to have helpd:

disconnect the handbrake (ie spin the adjustment nuts all the way loose)

Take the calipers off both sides

back the pistons in on the calipers with a retraction tool

put it back together

pump the brakes a few times to move the pistons back to the correct spot

tighten the handbrake cable adjuster until it won't go any further

pull up the handbrake, see if it rolls (it did not)

drop the handbrake, make sure it DOES roll (it did)

 

I also went ahead and bled again since i had everything off, only a couple small bubbles...but hopefully that was enough to cause the squish. gorgeous out right now, so will probably spin around the block before the sun goes down in an hour.

 

I noticed my coolant level was low after my short drives, but i'm guessing its just air burping its way out. also topped off the oil, since it also seemed low.

 

So the REAL question i have....anyone know what vehicle the wiper switch comes from?  i'm pretty sure the switch was finally shipped, but since I'm STILL waiting on the bushing since september, i'm not confident it will show up before my inspection on the 14th...would be willing to spend a little to make sure i get it, but i'm having no luck tracking it down from sources other than caterham or another UK site (https://www.mksportscars.com/) - anyone know of somewhere else I can find it somewhat quickly?

[hyper7]

just drove it around the block again, brakes feel a little better, but still not as bitey as i expected, but maybe i'm just used to my "modern" cars. also getting a weird pulsing sound after letting off the brakes, so i guess i've gotta put it back in the air again.

 

 

oh, and my temperature gauge never went above the "blue" section....so i'm wondering if something else is messed up.  i had the nose cone off and was running it for a while, and saw the fan kick on, and my obd connector showed the temp up in the low 200s (F).

Edited November 5 by hyper7

[CBuff]

Can you poach your heater switch for the wipers to pass the inspection.  Not sure on the amp ratings on each switch but it would be a similar 3 position switch. 
 

my fan kicks on at 103c per the gauge. Will creep up to 108c then settle back down to 100 and cycle off. On and off till I get out of traffic and get moving.