Some Cat 7 updates on my '99 Vaux 2L

[Reiver]

Have driven it daily and love this car.  

I will shortly pull the 2 DCOE 45's and go thru them even tho they run well....replace springs etc. and general cleaning.  I also want new more robust mounts...the thicker alloy mounts with rubber O rings either side.  I suspect a slight air leak in the front carb mount altho the plugs look acceptable.

Because of the thicker mounts I went to thinner air filters....   .75 inches shorter as the mounts will add some and there isn't much clearance now when removing the hood.  I replaced the 64 mm trumpets (a tad too tall for the original K&N filters imo) with 40 mm so have a solid inch of clearance to the filter cover.  Took it for a quick run ( zip to 80 mph) as I live right off of Hwy 93 and did not note one bit of dif.  idle remained the same too.  Similar oiled filters.  Much easier removing the hood (bonnet) but that wasn't the point really.

I also replaced the original 4 point harness with an aftermarket one using a normal snap belt.  I did not have to remove the seats...there is enough room to fettle.  As the shoulder straps are connected to the lap belt much easier on/off and access.  Those lower original lap belts don't get 'lost' under your butt.

The Conex has plenty of work room as you can see.

For the Vauxhall 2L 20 XE guys.... I have F16 emulsion tubes (I understand that is the norm for Cat 7 Weber's) but would think F2's would / should work with 500 cc's per cylinder...your thoughts? 

 

p.s.  My house garage is basically full, I could put the 7 up on the lift but then access is an event.

[Vovchandr]

I'm pretty "new car" sheltered and love 7 dearly. It's always reassuring to see others share my sentiment even though they have pretty nice new alternatives in the garage (Such as the C8, rented one for a day, what a machine - just not "for me"). 

 

Connex is a nice alternative that one doesn't see everyday. I'm personally kicking around the idea of getting a 4 post. Maybe sooner than later with the potential costs going up in this political climate.  

[Reiver]

I've had that 4 post since we built the house.  Honestly the best tool I have.  I have a high ceiling (purposely) in the garage for full extension with a car overhead.  

[Reiver]

Finally got around to making a sump guard.  It wraps around the front frame and is secured with U bolts.  I have not gotten around to raising the car 1/2 inch with coil overs but have the adjusters.... simply have to get around to it.

The forward belly pans you can see...light alloy and plastic sheeting keep dust/material from being sucked up into the exposed cam belt system by SBD.  works great and no overheating either.

I did wrap the exhaust with header tape to reduce the engine bay temps. 

[mrmustang]

My advice is to not use the header wrap but instead send them out to be ceramic coated. Do it once, do it right, and hopefully never have to do it again.

 

 

 

[Reiver]

21 minutes ago, mrmustang said:

My advice is to not use the header wrap but instead send them out to be ceramic coated. Do it once, do it right, and hopefully never have to do it again.

 

 

 

I'll stick with the header wrap...easy and works with no down time.

[mrmustang]

20 minutes ago, Reiver said:

I'll stick with the header wrap...easy and works with no down time.

From hands on experience working in the race/speed shop industry in the 90's to mid 2K's, it leads to premature rust issues with the headers. Again, your money, your car, your choice.

 

 

 

[Reiver]

where I live in Arizona nothing rusts.... I've used them for years here with no rust at all.  If I lived in a wet climate I might take your advice.

[speedwagon]

13 hours ago, Reiver said:

where I live in Arizona nothing rusts.... I've used them for years here with no rust at all.  If I lived in a wet climate I might take your advice.

I grew up in Michigan. The US navy sent me to White Sands Missal Range, rust is the one of the reasons that i live in the desert (what's PB Blaster?). 

[mrmustang]

14 hours ago, Reiver said:

where I live in Arizona nothing rusts.... I've used them for years here with no rust at all.  If I lived in a wet climate I might take your advice.

You'll find the constant heat/cool cycle will create the issues in which I spoke of. More so on the V8 powered cars (Cobra replicas, vintage corvettes, etc), but even in Arizona, it happens. I have a good friend in Scottsdale that can tell the tale, I'll reach out and see if he still has the pictures from the early 2K's.

 

 

[Reiver]

I have not had an issue here in AZ in my small town...Scottsdale has higher humidity due to the golf courses, lakes, fountains and etc. that they stupidly encourage in the desert.

OTOH, I will remove the tape a year from now and take a look...I suspect it will be the same as the header tape on my 911 that was on for 8 years...not an issue. 

[MV8]

Tubing failure from heat is more likely with wrappers who have: thin wall cheap headers, power adders, tuning issues from excessive compression on pump gas(zero or retarded initial timing and less than normal to stay out of detonation on the top end), burned or poorly sealing exhaust valves, too lean, retarded timing, etc to burn residula fuel in the header instead of the engine. The result is abnormally high header temps (glowing headers). Wrap turns the tube into a kiln, driving the tubing temp much hotter since it can't radiate.

Edited Tuesday at 10:14 AM by MV8

[Reiver]

Well, I'll take them off in one year to see how things are going..... not sure about the quality of the original Cat headers but I suspect they are solid.