Mudder Posted October 26, 2025 Posted October 26, 2025 Dear Seveners, I think one of my alternator bearings is going south. The alternator is still working, but the tiny bell like sound (ringeding) it produces drives me nuts. The sound could come from somewhere completely different, but I am getting tired of this Wild Goose chase, so I decided that I will start with the alternator. I would like to replace the unit with something I can easily get off the shelf. Reliability and availability are my main objectives. My Seven is a stock 1999 S3 1700 Super Sprint (LHD). Four in one stock exhaust. The real estate for the alternator is very limited and I am not sure whether it is the original unit (see attached picture) All the attachment points look very much stock. There is an angle iron attached to the bottom of my engine block, which serves as the mount for the two alternator bolts on the bottom and there is the usual adjuster at the top which mounts to the front of the engine. The electrical connections are three spade connectors which seem to have the cover/housing missing. The Alternator is a MAGNETON 14V 55A unit made in the Czech Republic. Part number is 443 113 516 709 Additional code on the sticker: 20D9 (could be a date code) I searched the Googles for a couple of hours, but cannot come up with a matching unit. I contacted MAGNETON, but haven't heard back If any of you has one of these units (working) for sale I would be happy to purchase it. Preferred option is however to come up with a "better" solution. Thank You!!
panamericano Posted October 26, 2025 Posted October 26, 2025 " tiny bell like sound (ringeding)" OR: I had a little car sounded like that. It was outside air blowing through the heater fan; turning it; making the sound. Rather lovely, so I named the car Tinker Bell.
Mudder Posted October 27, 2025 Author Posted October 27, 2025 That made me smile! thanks for sharing!!
MV8 Posted October 27, 2025 Posted October 27, 2025 (edited) Still need to adapt to fit using bracket changes, but geo metro is a good option with similar output. The later flat belt alt has the batt stud in a better location and the pulley could be swapped to a v-belt. Connectors are also available on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/406295921439?fits=Make%3AGeo&_skw=geo+alternator&itmmeta=01K8JG1W6GS655F0SMPR6BMT37&hash=item5e991fc31f:g:oBcAAeSwOYZo8TYD&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dd8cG3dBE75j81D8LUBZ4%2BD56FXXgGjiItri3lgZ3pU0c9GkE31ShywIifnHgSNhjYr2hOseoEK629DyW21zugNWSt2hN1tXOj9m7sjLq3FzSCXWxFn0acPkv3wVB%2BTIOgq%2FUtxJzeRKRdA0gSU1h1HWnahxtVYA%2BLkUeqQjQ1oD9HOjtf3URepH4VoKDDP3i0ERshTrMYSK9TwvK7C5s1EdQQ2RDEu9qy9K2UbYGifxcURxIGtzUu3Mv0RqwYVOc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-LDh9DEZg https://www.ebay.com/itm/267015395577?fits=Make%3AGeo&_skw=geo+alternator&itmmeta=01K8JG1W6GHH2VNW9WF6NN3RF0&hash=item3e2b5b98f9:g:H1gAAOSwmg9n9W3B&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ekkvEixq3TOFQd%2FnrDVZlUVqz7LcJ9G6UfefDt5Dze4kCX5MiIgSU6Acv0ouryA%2FwdldRLmmPTDKMtSMjdieI%2F6H40GILh%2BvfuJWahC9HTCEALfpzboylL6n9C6yXbNaEuh0zh8ywLE4mCKoQ64mT85W1E5D9HVvFCAYIW5jfa3a5vJVpea1A3wlIrmTmLtE4qvDp2XfSry5LrmBzT5RzokpBMD%2FdY2V2cNEANw%2F4oyr93oSrZpHB1paK8moS%2F%2BVnqSSinXa66pE4NUPKPKv7rQEGJSrL30%2Fkkogb4%2FpmK6A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR97Dh9DEZg https://www.ebay.com/itm/205670147412?fits=Make%3AGeo&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D292554%26meid%3Dc852006a23564f31926db19c41abc898%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D292161762476%26itm%3D205670147412%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V6ReplaceKnnV4WithVectorDbNsOptHotPlRecallWithFitmentPromotion%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A205670147412c852006a23564f31926db19c41abc898|enc%3AAQAKAAABUOPVUWkNSWIi4xPIRR%2Bea0ruWIxHgnPK8PdPxN8t7lOJwSbCgBVGnPB%2BkX92OCSHLrWzcuJijyMXsixjmw%2F0tOoPG1Av05NgSa3J%2F4730CL2ZJhZ%2Ff4OEh7j1dOOikPSN4bEKgMzqP2EaD1QOWaiLl5ddvg%2By857Csn%2F89LkZSxHJYiJRjan%2BuNoXlpSUMevco6Na3YWea%2B94XHKhNYLHgzlqE45dYvbyijYrVblW0%2BYZeibQBTdsA17u3XSUoBInoHcoKcB8%2FjL%2FHTiEJkDdAssUvGakVkccnF1QHYiPbnOzkuCES4zORrKxeejjrjir380o7MAEHZFPqmKak7QuT3wQNzUxTgLScbyfAsRmlYUbyDaehuLUUQeBPQN8KfZOD2aJw0gWL579hrJXac3yODogxQP4cjk6eFmlpUPh6isV%2F7npHcKx4QzZq4hSbO5Mw%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K8JJ6BK9SYMT8H9XJGEKAYPQ Edited October 27, 2025 by MV8
Mudder Posted October 27, 2025 Author Posted October 27, 2025 MV8 Thank you very much. Great advice. Working on it!!
S1Steve Posted October 27, 2025 Posted October 27, 2025 Just to back up MV8’s post. Photo is out of the Superformance Installation Manual. Engine kit came with a Geo alternator. Similar idea in small packaging. Maybe this will help. 1
IamScotticus Posted October 28, 2025 Posted October 28, 2025 Check local auto parts for 70-73 Ford Pinto 1600. You can still get a water pump. Maybe the alternator as well. Same for 2.0 ?
MV8 Posted October 28, 2025 Posted October 28, 2025 It looks like the main issue here is alt case diameter between the steering shaft, block, outboard chassis rail, and the unfortunate routing from Cat (must have built the prototytpe header on an engine without an alternator). I have many types of alternators in-hand (mostly ones I've replaced) that I could compare dimensions on. Applications are 60s-90s. I have engineering and fab experience if you'd like any suggestions for mounting the geo alt. Here is a bracket I designed and fabbed for a CS-121 on a chevy v6-60 in a Triumph.
Mudder Posted October 28, 2025 Author Posted October 28, 2025 MV8 hit the nail on its head. There is NO space. I pulled the alternator today and it barely (as in nearly not) cleared the exhaust/frame/ steering column. The Geo Metro alternator got delivered and it seems somewhat smaller but needs bracket fabrication. My suspicion was correct. The front bearing on my Magneton Alternator is shot. That's were the ringedinging was coming from. I will try to get the bearings changed for right now. The bracket fabrication will be next (winter project). Thanks for all the help so far.
MV8 Posted October 29, 2025 Posted October 29, 2025 I repack when they start to get noisy from old, crumbly grease. The front bearing seal should pop out of the bearing easily with a pointy (steak?) knife, then reflatten to reinstall after greasing. The rear is just a cup. There usually is a couple holes on the outside for a paper clip to hold the brushes in against the springs for assembly. If you'd like some bracket suggestions, post pics of the old brackets installed without the alternator in the way.
Mudder Posted October 29, 2025 Author Posted October 29, 2025 Nice Fabrication!!!! As soon as I find some time I'll send pictures of the brackets installed without the "Boat Anchor"
Mudder Posted October 29, 2025 Author Posted October 29, 2025 Here are a couple of shots which show the size difference. in comparison the “original” alternator (left)which probably was a mid 2000s replacement, because Caterham supposedly used Magneton Alternators during this time frame demands a blood/skin sacrifice where as the Geo Metro (1996) one leaves the mechanic’s hands somewhat intact. see for yourself the clocking of the new alternator will need some bracketeering! 1
MV8 Posted October 29, 2025 Posted October 29, 2025 Looks like the original pulley has a smaller shaft so it may not fit the geo. Appears that all you will need is a reworked upper bracket or just make new. The upper just tensions so it can be a 90 degree tab on the block with rod ends and a coupler if you want. May need to shim the lower brkt between the front ear and the alt to set the belt alignment; possibly shim the rear as well depending on the gap to the geo floating bush.
IamScotticus Posted October 29, 2025 Posted October 29, 2025 I hope you don't cut the OE mount. Whatever you weld, it will break.
NSXguy Posted October 30, 2025 Posted October 30, 2025 (edited) i shared this last year on another thread as a replacement alternator for Xflow powered 7s. You might want to consider if applicable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZYNNBH2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2 Edited October 30, 2025 by NSXguy
Mudder Posted October 30, 2025 Author Posted October 30, 2025 5 hours ago, IamScotticus said: I hope you don't cut the OE mount. Whatever you weld, it will break. No worries I am always trying to safe everything original!
IamScotticus Posted October 30, 2025 Posted October 30, 2025 (edited) These are my notes from various sources ALTERNATOR Lucas 15/16/17 ACR (type 36A) Lucas ACR 17 Mfg # 14014 Triumph TR6, GT6, MG MGB/C Mercury Capri 1970 Denso 55A WAI 314535308400 Caterham 432836 Bracket: FORD 721f-10145-aa Edited October 30, 2025 by IamScotticus
MV8 Posted October 30, 2025 Posted October 30, 2025 (edited) Here are a couple ways to make the alt adjustment bracket. No welding if you source an adjuster. Edited October 30, 2025 by MV8
IamScotticus Posted October 30, 2025 Posted October 30, 2025 20 hours ago, Mudder said: Here are a couple of shots which show the size difference. in comparison the “original” alternator (left)which probably was a mid 2000s replacement, because Caterham supposedly used Magneton Alternators during this time frame demands a blood/skin sacrifice where as the Geo Metro (1996) one leaves the mechanic’s hands somewhat intact. see for yourself the clocking of the new alternator will need some bracketeering! Can we have the Geo alternator lug mounting spacing dimensions? Outside, inside?
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