Help picking a tow vehicle and trailer for my Caterham

[pethier]

20 hours ago, savagete2860 said:

As for securing the car, I am going to have them put in E Tracks. Would the erickson tie downs work if the rear ratchets need to be in front of the to rear tire rather than behind? I imagine it wouldn't make a difference? https://www.etrailer.com/Car-Tie-Down-Straps/Erickson/EM58523-09162-4.html#exp-productdetails=.all-description 

 

Video of the straps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4cK1aOsdbQ

I have bought from Steve at Autohauler Supply and have been happy.  Last year I treated myself to a new set of over-the-tire straps and these are the best ones yet. Ratchets are silky-smooth.  Right now they are $36.95 a corner.

 

https://www.autohaulersupply.com/products/2x11-ratchet-hdor-endshdorauto-idler-lps-dw-554676?variant=49012265746738

[pethier]

20 hours ago, savagete2860 said:

As for securing the car, I am going to have them put in E Tracks. Would the erickson tie downs work if the rear ratchets need to be in front of the to rear tire rather than behind? I imagine it wouldn't make a difference? https://www.etrailer.com/Car-Tie-Down-Straps/Erickson/EM58523-09162-4.html#exp-productdetails=.all-description 

 

Video of the straps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4cK1aOsdbQ

I always go off the ends of the car, but that's really because I am used to tying down cars like an Elise where you have no choice.

 

I see no reason why a guy could not tie down a Seven by having both ratchets between the front and rear tires.  The geometry of the strap holding the tire to the track is the same either way.   I don't recall seeing a formula car tied down that way, but there is no reason it would not work.

 

BTW, the guy doing that youtube video is not that good.  Among other things, there is no good reason to tie up your strap ends like that on an enclosed trailer.  That's only to keep them from flying around in the slipstream.

 

Also, I looked again at the site and I don't understand why you want those rings and the of the straps.  This set is like mine, and it is 31.95 a corner:

 

https://www.autohaulersupply.com/products/ultimate-horizontal-e-track-wheel-strap-low-pro-553719?variant=50221642744114

 

I have never tried that Erickson brand, but I cannot imagine they would be any better.

[pethier]

44 minutes ago, pethier said:

I see no reason why a guy could not tie down a Seven by having both ratchets between the front and rear tires.  The geometry of the strap holding the tire to the track is the same either way.   I don't recall seeing a formula car tied down that way, but there is no reason it would not work.

I can see a reason.  On one side of the car the exhaust system could be in the way.  You might have room for one ratchet and not two.  Then again, there is no reason that the ratchet end has to be exactly in-line with the main piece of E-track. On the exhaust side of the car, you could run the front-tire ratchet behind the front tire.  The ratchet for the rear tire could sit offset from the main E-track and anchor to a short track placed for that purpose.  A single could do it.  If it is a single, I'd be sure that one is through-bolted.

 

I put my E-track in this trailer and through-bolted all of it, except where the hole hit a steel frame member I tapped the frame for 1/4-20.  When I bought the Caterham, the tracks were too far apart for the single-strap method.  I put in a second set of tracks butted up against the originals.  Since I didn't have a helper, I screwed this second track to the deck except where I hit a steel frame member I tapped the frame for 1/4-20.  Usually, the Seven lands so I put one clip in each track and the strap runs at a slight diagonal over the center of the tire.  With the wider wheels I now have for the Caterham, I will probably be on the original outside tracks.

 

Time for lunch.  The pounding rain and light hail seems over...

Edited April 17 by pethier

[savagete2860]

The weather has been cold and wet the last few weeks which has been holding up trying out my new trailer. My Caterham's radiator also decided to spring a leak, as they apparently like to do. Because of that, I have not been able to load up my car on the random decent days. I managed to sort the radiator and figured I'd load up the trailer and see where I could get the tongue weight using a scale I bought.

 

This is important not only to see if I can even get under 15% window for tongue weight but also to see where my payload capacity lands with a loaded trailer. After passengers and fuel, I only have ~970 lbs left for available payload with no trailer, tools, hitch, etc, so I am going to be cutting it close.

 

I put the car on the trailer, near the rear, and lowered it onto the scale. Bam - 250 lbs! I was starting to think the scale they used at the trailer shop was wrong since it ranged from like 700 down to low/mid 600s depending on car position. I was pretty happy because I am aiming for 365-550lbs and with how far back the car was, that should be simple to hit. I pushed the car to the front of the trailer and lowered onto the scale again, not is at 200 lbs. Huh.. turns out MY scale, not the shop's scale, was a dud and wouldn't measure over 200 lbs. I am now waiting on a replacement scale to try this all again and I still don't know exactly how I will load the trailer up or what my available payload will be.

 

Figured I would post some pictures of my almost complete tow setup.

 

Here is the full setup after I bought the trailer. No car loaded.

 

 

 

These are all from today...

 

Also discover the bell housing/skid plate gets hung up on the ramp door with me in the car. It just clears when the car is completely unloaded though.