I need Caterham parts . . . is Sevens & Elans still in business?

[werthie]

hi Everyone . . . my '92 Caterham S3 had an engine fire last week.   scary.   good thing i had a fire extinguisher!!

 

i'm going to repair the damage, but i need a new wiring loom, throttle cable, distributor cap, etc. . . .  i did business with Chris at Sevens & Elans many years ago, but he's not responding to calls and emails . . .  any suggestions on where to buy parts?

 

i'm guess that gas leaked from the front Weber carb and dripped on the distributor, starting the fire . . .  i'd appreciate any advice on how to avoid this in the future.

 

many thanks,

 

Alan in Los Angeles

[wemtd]

Thank goodness you’re safe. I believe Chris retired several years ago.

what engine & particulars do you have? Might help folks in the know.

i expect the cable is off the shelf. And worst case if you can find wiring diagram & build a new loom.  
some folks have used “painless wiring harness” though I suspect this solves a more Modern loom problem 

[IamScotticus]

Alan,

They were all S3s in 92.

What engine do you have?

@fotsyrChris, are you still at it?

Assuming it's a Xflow, I have an old harness and I would suggest getting a new dizzy from 123 Distributors.

Do you need a bonnet?

Edited December 8, 2025 by IamScotticus

[Kitcat]

Chris and Seven’s and Elans is still very busy, see attached Facebook photo. He relocated his business to Florida some years ago and he is no longer a Caterham dealer. But he has a wealth of knowledge and parts related to Lotus and Caterham 7’s, as well as Elans, etc.

[MV8]

You might share pics with me by PM. It sounds like a cross flow. There are many things that can be done to mitigate the issue of fuel routing over the distributor. Ensure the plug wires are high quality and not carbon core that are more likely to short due to higher resistance new and worse with age/use. Use plug wire looms that prevent each wire from getting within an inch of any brackets or the block. I use universal spiral core v8 wire kits that are cut to length and include looms. Route the plug wires forward then up around to keep it away from the fuel. Move the ignition coil to near the front of the engine so the coil wire does not run aft of the distributor, under the carbs.

 

Replace the fuel hoses every few years and whenever the hoses are not soft or any cracking can be seen. Use Gates Barricade fuel hose which has a nylon liner inside a traditional outer jacket and is compatible with ethanol blends. Use adjustable worm gear clamps instead of pinch or spring clamps. Check fuel pressure with a gauge whenever the pump is replaced and check it at high rpm as well if using an engine driven pump. Route the fuel hose aft along the top then down at the rear to the filter then on to the pump instead of forward then down in front of the front carburetor.

If you want to continue: For when/if fuel does leak down for whatever reason, you could also fit a rubber distributor boot (come standard on many cars and trucks including landrover, ferrari, ford, nissan, etc). A distributorless ignition could be installed so there would be no high voltage wiring below the carbs.

 

Copper sealing washers at the carb fuel inlet fittings/banjos should be annealed with a hand torch and piece of steel wire to hang them on, made to glow then quenched in water. This has the opposite effect that it would have on carbon steel.

Edited December 8, 2025 by MV8

[fotsyr]

My phone number is 978 502 2120. Email address is sevenselans@gmail.com. Currently restoring 3 S2 Sevens, 1 JPS, #007 Europa, Elan Sprint, S4, 2 x Elans from 1965 and mine,  Elan # 335.

 

chris