Darcy Posted yesterday at 02:42 AM Posted yesterday at 02:42 AM Darcy here again, I got the battery hooked up yesterday and heard the car run for the first time. So far so good. It starts well. Seems cold blooded, and likes some choke to keep running for the first 5-7 minutes. After that it idles Ok. It is about 1200 feet higher where I live compared to where it was for the last 55 years, so I might need to tweak the carb a bit. A couple of things I noticed: 1. The clutch has a heavy spring, which is manageable, but the engagement is like a light switch. I have never used a clutch that was so difficult to modulate. Gear changes from 2->3->4 and down are Ok. Pulling away in 1st is brutal. It can't be right. 2. There is a loud clunk coming from the rear end when the car leaps away. I'm not sure, but sounds like something is loose. There is no sound from the diff that I can hear. it is only when it fully engages in a microsecond. 3. While trying to pull away from a stop and being ultra careful with the clutch, the car shudders quite badly This aggravates item 2. 4. It was only after I put it in reverse did I realize this car has no mirrors. ? I guess I need to find some small British mirrors that will go well on the car. 5. The 55 year old tires felt like wooden blocks. Pirellis are on order. 6. Car needs some kind of wind deflectors. Who makes the best ones you can buy? 7. Oh dear, when I got home I noticed a trail of drips into my garage. It seems the oil filter is leaking. Thankfully I only drove a few kms. Engine revs freely, shifts nice. Brakes are smooth. Steers quick. This is going to be an interesting adventure.
theDreamer Posted yesterday at 03:26 AM Posted yesterday at 03:26 AM (edited) @Darcy here is my take on your questions. #1 Your car may have a racing style clutch which, by designed, is not to be slipped. Having driven racing cars and ridden dry clutch motorcycles, getting the revs up and letting out the clutch quickly has become second nature to me. It takes practice and patience but you can master it. if you cannot avoid traffic lights be sure to let the vehicle in front of you get sufficiently ahead before you “pop” the clutch. You’ll be up their tail pipe in flash if not careful. Probably some YouTube videos out there to show you how to modulate the throttle, you need to give it enough so as not to stall but once rolling be ready to back off a bit. #2 most likely “A” frame bushings are shot. This was something that turned me off several good cars before I learned what was making the noise and how easy a fix it is. #3 See answer to #1. #4 There are several period correct types available. I suggest getting the type that mount to the leading edge of the windscreen mounts. They slide over the edge and are held by machine screws tightened against the inside edge. No drilling required. (see image) #6 I’m not sure as it depends on the spacing of the door pins. I’d suggest driving with the doors on until you find out from the Lotus S2 & S3 owners in the group what they have. Many of us drive with doors on and some have bought or made draft reducers to go around or behind the headrest or the roll bar. However, not applicable in your case at this point. (see image of the wife and I arriving at British Car Day after a three hour drive on 400 series highways) #7 Congratulations, you own a legitimate Little Britsh Car. You can tell because they like to mark their territory. Edited yesterday at 03:41 AM by theDreamer
SENC Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago Check the slave and master cylinders for their sizes - as they've been replaced over the years, it isn't unusual for them to get replaced in different sizes, resulting in varying clutch pressures and travel. Getting the sizes "right" isn't straightforward, as there is conflicting literature from Girling, Lotus, and one or more of the more reputable parts vendors. I seem to remember a thread here on the tioic that included some of those references - if you do a search on this site for clutch cylinders you may come across it. I'll poke around and see if I see it. People's reports on wind reflectors are that they are hit or miss. I have a pair from Redline, and they are a marginal improvement, but I'd rather have them on than off. Of course, the issue isn't really wind, but the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) in these cars. Between the brick shape and the nearly vertical windscreen, at any speed you're developing a big low pressure area in the cockpit - and sucking in the air. Deflectors MAY shift that slightly away from your ears. I've long thought a better solution would be to find a way to route air into the cockpit centrally - either a duct underneath into the cabin or a Miata-style windscreen mount.
SENC Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago This thread may be useful if you find yourself chasing clutch issues. https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14928-super-seven-s2-clutch-issues/
m2711c Posted 21 hours ago Posted 21 hours ago 47 minutes ago, SENC said: People's reports on wind reflectors are that they are hit or miss. I have a pair from Redline, and they are a marginal improvement, but I'd rather have them on than off. Of course, the issue isn't really wind, but the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) in these cars. Between the brick shape and the nearly vertical windscreen, at any speed you're developing a big low pressure area in the cockpit - and sucking in the air. Deflectors MAY shift that slightly away from your ears. I've long thought a better solution would be to find a way to route air into the cockpit centrally - either a duct underneath into the cabin or a Miata-style windscreen mount. yeah, I’ve had a similar thought. I was thinking some side vents near the bottom of the footwells should help with clearing the excess heat out of the footwells and help alleviate the low pressure developing behind the windshield. Something like you see on this Crosley Super Sports 1
JohnCh Posted 20 hours ago Posted 20 hours ago Thread title changed and thread moved to the Build Threads forum per @Darcy's request.
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