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Cable Ties for Cycle Wings?


EburgE

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There are several methods for attaching cycle wings. The standard method requires holes drilled through the fibreglass. Some say this can weaken the wing and may look less tidy.

 

Another method is to bond the fibreglass directly to the metal wingstays. This method makes it difficult to remove the wings in the future.

 

I'm considering a third method using cable ties. Mounts are bonded directly to the wing. Rubber is used between the mount and the wingstay.

 

What do you think?

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/691357621_WeldMount.JPG

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1107487624_WeldMountsOnWings.JPG

 

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1441819728_WeldMountsInstalled.JPG

 

Cable tie mounts are available from marine suppliers, like http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6436&familyName=Weld+Mount+Footman+Strap+Mount

 

 

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There are several methods for attaching cycle wings. The standard method requires holes drilled through the fibreglass. Some say this can weaken the wing and may look less tidy.

 

Another method is to bond the fibreglass directly to the metal wingstays. This method makes it difficult to remove the wings in the future.

 

I'm considering a third method using cable ties. Mounts are bonded directly to the wing. Rubber is used between the mount and the wingstay.

 

What do you think?

 

Cable tie mounts are available from marine suppliers, like http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6436&familyName=Weld+Mount+Footman+Strap+Mount

 

 

Hi EburgE,

 

I think that I would find some other way of attaching the cycle fenders to the "metal wingstays" as you called them. I have seen plastic cable ties fail for no apperant reason after sitting for a couple days. You might want to use a hose clamp in place of the cable ties (ziplocks) as they are a lot stronger and are still easy to remove or adjust.

Another reason that I would change the cable ties is the local club that I auto-X with looks for cable ties (zipties) that are being used to hold other things other than wires and will not let you run until the object is secured or mounted with a more structural methiod of mounting to prevent things from falling off at speed.

Hope this helps.

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Well, I think you are on the right track. I would like to have the option to remove or adjust the wings. How about hose clamps? The big issue is the clamps loosening over time. If you can figure out a fail safe, then I think you have a good approach.

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Considering the forces on the fenders from both wind resistance and the sudden changes of direction inherent with following the suspension as it absorbs the bumps in the road, I think those fenders are going to flutter around a bit at speed and eventually loosen and maybe fly off if you use the steel bands or hose clamps. I think you should re-consider bonding or bolting the fenders to the stays.

 

Putting those anchor points between the fender and the stay is going to change the relationship between tire and fender as well. It might not be as pleasing to the eye. Just my opinion, your milage may vary.

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Maybe a bit OT...

 

Quick lesson on nylon cable ties;

Only buy ties manufactured by reputable suppliers. Nylon, if not molded properly, can be or become weak and brittle. Since the material is hygroscopic, it needs to be thoroughly dried before molding or water inclusions will disrupt the polymer structure. Post molding re hydration is critical as well. The ties you get at Autozone and such are poorly molded Chinese copies of the real thing. Buy from Digikey or some other electronics specialist to get good ties.

 

If ties are molded properly, you should be able to repeatedly bend and flatten them with pliers without breaking. Black ties have the most resistance to UV and other environmental and chemical influences such as the Dow Fender Solvent that's spread on our streets in winter.

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I have used hundreds of cable ties for attaching lots of non-critical components on my car but I would be a bit nervous about attaching a fender with them. As Bob says, nylon can become very brittle at low humidity, affected by UV and various chemicals and it's properties effected greatly by moulding conditions. Metal straps or gear clamps would be more durable. My fibergass fenders are fastened with copious amounts of Silkaflex 221 and have survived 2 years of road use and track days with 100mph+ speeds.

Peter

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I'm begining to see the merits of bonding or screwing.

 

The idea of using gear clamps (hose clamps?) instead of plastic ties seems like a vast improvement.

 

Maybe the clamps could be screwed or bonded to the wingstay?

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I do not know how this topic is going to end, but I'm going post an observation. Even airplanes are glued together with the availability of modern techniques. In many cases they absorb vibration that would be destructive if they were not used. If proper preparation and application techniques were used I would prefer it. Do a search on polyetherimide. I would not use plastic zip ties!

 

:) :) :)

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I don't really mind bonding the wings on. Plenty of people say it works well.

 

My question then becomes: What happens if a wing gets broken and needs to be replaced?

 

Can the epoxy be removed from the wingstay, or does the wingstay nee to be replaced?

 

 

 

 

Regarding the "proper clamshells", I just like the look of the cycle wings. :cheers:

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I don't really mind bonding the wings on. Plenty of people say it works well.

 

My question then becomes: What happens if a wing gets broken and needs to be replaced?

 

Can the epoxy be removed from the wingstay, or does the wingstay nee to be replaced?

 

The epoxy can be removed with a disk sander or even a propane tourch from the wing stays with very little effort as far as I know. The same way you would remove escessive fiberglass.

 

 

 

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eBurgE,

 

For myself, I'm going to be attaching my carbon-fiber cycle wings to my new Caterham by the old-fashioned bolt-through method.

 

I think this is the most secure and compact way to do it. It eliminates any play or unwanted clearance in a tie-mounting arrangement, and doesn't leave you with a hunk of gunk that has to be attacked with a disk sander at replacement time.

 

My c/f wings have been undercoated with pickup-truck bed liner to protect against stones being kicked up, so they have a bit more "meat" to them than the average front cycle wing. I am using black-oxide stainless steel bolts with a recessed-Allen socket (button-head bolts) from McMaster-Carr. Instead of cutting rubber grommets in half as Caterham does, I am going to punch out thinner bolt gaskets from some rubber snow-and-ice seal sheeting that is a home construction left-over, and handy for all sorts of car projects.

 

Instead of using nuts on the inside ends of the through-bolts through the wing stays, I am sizing the length of the bolts so that I can tap the wing stays themselves with the proper thread, and eliminate a nut altogether -- thus a weight savings of eight nuts, and more clearance between wing stay and tire!!

 

Alaskossie

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