Caterham Questions, and some Zetec too...

[supersportsp]

Questions for you Caterham owners (or Caterham knowledgeable folks).

 

1. What are the options for jacking points with an S3 deDion chassis?

 

2. For those of you with the heater, do you have issues with hot air coming in even with the heater off? Seems that mine is flowing air out of the engine compartment regardless of whether the fan is engaged or not, especially at speed. Is there some sort of flap that should be closing to keep this from happening?

 

3. My car only has 5k on it and I am the fourth owner. Since it is 10 years old now since it was put on the road, I am thinking a complete fluid change is in order. Recs for trans, diff and brake fluid? I also plan to flush the cooling system.

 

Zetec questions:

 

1. I have an 2.0 Zetec that was either Raceline built or has Raceline goodies. Carbed and supposedly good for 185 hp. What oil weight should I be running? How about what oil filter? Any issue with running full synth?

 

2. What is the oil capacity?

 

Gracias in advance.

[Kitcat]

The heat problem is something we all suffer from. It relates to a poorly sealed engine compartment and zero insulation. The driver sits right behind that engine bay/furnace and is sandwiched between the transmission on one side and the exhaust on the other. It does get toasty.

 

I recently switched to a Brooklands screen set-up and it has been noticeably cooler in the driver's seat. It allows the heat to escape faster. The standard set up with a full windshield seems to create a vacuum that holds the heat in the car for a bit. Just don't get caught in the rain!

 

Mike

[bball7754]

I don't have a heater, but believe that there have been issues with heat continuing to come out even with the controls fully closed.

 

A quick search on Blatchat should return info on the issue. It's a pretty rich source of info on Caterhams.

 

http://www.blatchat.com

 

Steve

[yellowss7]

Re: Changing fluids, Definately change the brake fluid. I use Castrol LMA which works fine for my purposes.

 

As for the Gearbox and Diff, no real need to change fluids. You can top them off if they need it, but unless there is a leak not necessary.

 

I have the Caterham Six speed box and I did just change it over to Redline's MTL.

 

I flushed and replaced my coolant with Zerex's G-05 phophate free formula. Supposedly a good choice for my Aluminum Rover K series engine. Used a 50/50 Coolant/water mix. A little Redline Water Wetter added as well.

 

As for the oil recomendations, I believe Oilteq will be along to give you some good advice. But I just saw a neat explanation on oil recomendations. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

 

Long but a good read.

 

As for synthetics, I ran my engine in on good old mineral based oil, and switched it over to Amsoil 10W-40 after the 500 mile breakin. Based on recommendations found here, I will be moving to Amsoil's new API CJ-4,

5W-40 synthetic diesel motor oil at the next change.

 

Just a note, as for changing to synthetic oil, if it has been serviced with a non synthetic mineral oil for the past 10 years, changing over to synthetics may result in some weaping from the gaskets as I understand they won't swell as much on the synthetic and may shrink a bit, thus weap or leak.

 

Tom

Edited August 21, 2009 by yellowss7

[JohnCh]

The Raceline sump holds 5 liters. Another good brake fluid is Ate. I alternate between their Super Blue and TYP 200. They are blue and amber in color respectively, so it makes it easy to determine when the new stuff is coming out when bleeding each caliper.

 

-John

[scannon]

The heater on my Caterham SV has a pull knob (similar to the old choke cables) to shut off the hot water to the heater core. Make sure it is closing the valve.

 

Some people put a piece of cardboard over the heater inlet to prevent any air from entering the heater core. Others just remove the heater.

 

As stated earlier, sealing and insulating the cockpit from the engine compartment and transmission tunnel goes a long way towards controlling the heat. The pedal box cover seals are where I have the most problem.

 

For jacking points, I use the joint in the center of the de Dion tube to raise the rear and the frame just forward of the engine sump where there is a large cross member plus two smaller tubes that make an X. I have to remove the bonnet and nose cone to get clearance for the jack as my nose cone has the chin spoiler hanging down there.

[catracer]

Jacking points.....You will find a tow point on both the front and back (a small solid steel loop, brazed to the tube frame). Use those and a very low floor jack. In general, only use 3 jack stands under these cars, 2 on the rearmost frame crossmember, and a single stand under the center of the front cruciform (where six tubes meet). It requires that the the rear be raised supported first, then the front.

[Kitcat]

BTW-Catracer is a Caterham dealer wh/I think gives his observation some additional credibilty.

[supersportsp]

I will have to try the cardboard over the heater intake method and see how that works. My foot well seems to be pretty well insulated. The box itself is insulated with a silver heat resistant adhesive fabric, and there is an addition of what looks to be a heat shield on the front section with more of the insulating fabric on it.

 

The ambient heat is there, but I am definitely getting heated airflow from what appears to be the heater output at the top of the foot well. Hopefully the cardboard cover will do the trick. I did make sure the water cut-off valve was shut as well. Thanks for the tip on that one. Didn't know I had it.

 

Thanks for the info on the jack points. I have a low profile aluminum floor jack so I shouldn't have any problems.

[athens7]

I use a piece of foot well insulation to stop off the heater air intake; it makes a big difference over leaving the intake open. Also, I have a coolant cut off valve (in addition to the pull lever in the cockpit) installed in the incoming coolant line to the heater, under the bonnet. This prevents hot coolant from entering the heater core, further reducing heat in the foot wells.

[supersportsp]

I use a piece of foot well insulation to stop off the heater air intake; it makes a big difference over leaving the intake open. Also, I have a coolant cut off valve (in addition to the pull lever in the cockpit) installed in the incoming coolant line to the heater, under the bonnet. This prevents hot coolant from entering the heater core, further reducing heat in the foot wells.

 

athens7, thanks for the info. Is the cut-off valve a Caterham part or something you installed? If you don't mind providing a little more info, maybe even a photo if it is custom, I would appreciate it. Thanks for the suggestions!

[athens7]

The cut off valve was installed by Jeff Sloan at British Auto Specialist, specifically to reduce heat in the cockpit. I will post a couple of pix in the next day or two.