southwind25 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Gary...maybe i have something or are doing something wrong. i thought right now i am at the limit before i risk bending the lower A arm. gotta get around to trying those scales someday.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 On a "7" with an independent rear (if there is such a critter), it would effect camber for sure. Quite a few se7ens have IRS these days. Caterham uses it in the CSR, Westfield has offered that setup for over 15 years, Birkin recently added it as an option, the WCM Ultralite uses it, and I'm sure there are others. Regarding ground clearance, I was recently talking to the folks at Raceline about a dry sump for the Duratec. Their wet sump is level with the botom of the bellhousing, so although the dry sump increases ground clearance at the engine by 38mm, the bellhousing remains the low point - until now. They have just added a new low profile, dry sump specific bellhousing to their lineup that increase ground clearance at that point by 23mm. It requires a new fllywheel, but uses their standard 8-1/2" AP clutch. -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkinnyG Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 My Locost is 4-1/2" from the ground to the bottom of the frame on street tires. 3" to the bottom of the oil pan. I can clear all the speed bumps I encounter (so far) as long as I creep over them - if I go fast enough for the chassis to droop coming off the speed bump, the pan gets hit. I have bottomed the chassis coming up steep driveway onto the street. With 20" slicks, it's a touch shorter: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/locost2007091.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDingo8MyBaby Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 My Locost is 4-1/2" from the ground to the bottom of the frame on street tires. 3" to the bottom of the oil pan. I can clear all the speed bumps I encounter (so far) as long as I creep over them - if I go fast enough for the chassis to droop coming off the speed bump, the pan gets hit. I have bottomed the chassis coming up steep driveway onto the street. With 20" slicks, it's a touch shorter: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/skinnyg/locost2007091.jpg I like how you've labeled your cone catcher...everyone always asks what mine is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjslutz Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Robert, I have changed over to 350 LB springs in the front and 180 LB springs in the rear. Mine from the factory was 170LB Front & 130LB Rear. I plan on going to 300 LB in the rear. Stop down, with my lift it makes the weighing much less work and faster. It is just a matter of sitting the car down on the scales, lift up adjust, down & up till you get what you want. It takes time, as you try to learn how to transfer weight. I'm still in the early stages of it. I have a little less than 3" under my bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitcat Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Standard Caterham, non-adjustable suspension, 15" Prisoner wheels: 3 1/2" oil pan to road. Never had a problem with speed bumps and have never scraped bottom in 10K+ miles of driving on & off the track. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southwind25 Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Thanks gary, i will do that...just dont know when at the moment. I switched to shorter 300# in the front.. but still have stock rear springs. i probably really need to change up the rears as well.. i need to find the spring rate discussion/thread here.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjslutz Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Look on the Birkin owners web site as well. I just found out QA1 only had 250 LB in 8" for the rear, now are on order for me. I now run 8" springs F&R. If you look at QA1's site they are only $50 each. If you do the 8" on the rear, it will give you the chance to use them on F or R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiBirkin Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Hi Robert do you have any pictures of your Birkin at rest with no one sitting in it so we can see what its sitting like. I have also just replaced my stock Birkin front shocks & springs with GAZ adjustable shocks and 8" springs rated at 250 lbs next im doing the back shocks and springs with 175lbs at the rear. I will take some measurments under my car from the chassis to the ground at the front and back and we can compare heights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Look on the Birkin owners web site as well. I just found out QA1 only had 250 LB in 8" for the rear, now are on order for me. I now run 8" springs F&R. If you look at QA1's site they are only $50 each. If you do the 8" on the rear, it will give you the chance to use them on F or R. contact AutoFab racecars in Maryland. I think they sell QA1 springs for $30 a piece, and stock most sizes. That's where I bought my stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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