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Aluminum rear fenders?


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Does anyone know where to get aluminum rear fenders, particularly slightly wider ones? Currently my 'Locost' rears are fiberglass which do not match the aluminum front fenders and rub 225's a little when I hit a bump. I would like to get some rears that have a 10.25" inside dimension for tire width. I'm in Indiana.

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Does anyone know where to get aluminum rear fenders, particularly slightly wider ones? Currently my 'Locost' rears are fiberglass which do not match the aluminum front fenders and rub 225's a little when I hit a bump. I would like to get some rears that have a 10.25" inside dimension for tire width. I'm in Indiana.

 

You might want to try contacting Jack McCornack as I think he is still making aluminum rear fenders. Just make sure you put KV at the end of the subject line if you e-mail him as that is how jack sorts out the spam and junk mail.

Here is a link to his site: http://kineticvehicles.com/contact.html

 

Hope this help in your quest.

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Rear fenders are easy to make. You bend a flange for the inside. Radius the outside edge and use a Lancaster shrinker for forming the radius.

 

You can bend the flange over the edge of your work bench and the edge radius over a PVC pipe. So the only tool you need to buy or borrow is the shrinker. You'll also need to use a propane torch to anneal the flanges.

 

If you can't find any, let me know. I could roll some for you.

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thanks guys - I sent Jack an email - we'll see what happens. Jon thanks for that - I may give that a try, I would have to bum a shrinker, and hopefully figure out how to use it. Where are you located? What would I have to bribe you with to help me make some fenders that don't flake paint and rub tires?

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thanks guys - ........... Jon thanks for that - I may give that a try, I would have to bum a shrinker, and hopefully figure out how to use it. Where are you located? What would I have to bribe you with to help me make some fenders that don't flake paint and rub tires?

 

I'm in PA per the member info header. If you want to learn how to do them yourself go to http://www.metalmeet.com. If you want them professionally made, I'm going to need to defer to Randy G who is a master compared to my beginner status in panel beating. I'm sure Randy could wire edge them. Mine would be unedged like on my Xxxx http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1503&start=165.

Edited by Jon W.
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I can make any thing. Go to Blastolene.com for pics. of my work. By chance I am making rear fenders this week for my car to fit 10 wide tire. What do you need?

Randy

 

I didnt know one of the makers of the Blastolene special also owned a Seven :)

 

Any pics of your car?

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It's about extremes, big and powerful, vs little, light and fast. Both are fun. My dad and I race the 7 for fun. Just built a high compression zetec and got some webers from Dunell.Built aluminum front and rear fenders for 10" rubber.And am about to make an aluminum nose. I did a wide nose for a friend and it looks cool. So I am going for an all aluminum Birkin with 200+ hp. Started motor last week! First Auto-x in 10 days,mine will not be the only new car. There should be 2 new Stalkers and my friend built a LS powered wide body 7. So any one want to visit so.Oregon we have a great track we run on.

That's my story , the Blastolene 7 Guy

Randy

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Wow Randy I have been a huge fan of the Blastolene cars for years. You have a great imagination for building popular hot rod styles into bigger than life art. I love the new Pissed of Pete. I would love to own one of your cars some day. Come on mega millions!!

 

It is nice to see you enjoy the smaller things in life like a 7. Welcome to the forum.

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Hijacking thread... we had some old 50s (or earlier) Seagrave "Squads" still in the Bakersfield Fire Department back in the 80s that would of been perfect for a Blastolene type ride (except for the brakes which only had about 3 hard stops in them). They were open top shorter fire engine size apparatus that just carried a fire pump and hose, no water tank but had the big in line diesel engine and manual trans.. who would of thunk

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BTW - I got this response from Jack:

 

Hi Chris,

 

Nope, I'm strictly a fiberglass fender guy, and my things-to-do list is too

long to add a skill with that steep a learning curve. Which reminds me, the

usa7s.com discussion includes a comment from randy g stating...

 

> > I can make any thing. Go to Blastolene.com for pics. of my work.

...and boy howdy is he right about that!

 

PS--As you can see, I'm a lurker on usa7s.com but not by choice. My registered

screen name on usa7s is JackMcCornack (as it is everywhere) and I'd like to

chime in on the forum, but after the first time in, I've never been able to

log back on. I've tried the "forgot password" thing a number of times but no

joy. If somebody would tell me how to get logged in, I'd love to participate.

 

Regards, Jack

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I can make any thing. Go to Blastolene.com for pics. of my work. By chance I am making rear fenders this week for my car to fit 10 wide tire. What do you need?

Randy

 

I'll make you a drawing - I should have it posted here in a few hours.

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Rear fenders are easy to make. You bend a flange for the inside. Radius the outside edge and use a Lancaster shrinker for forming the radius.

 

You can bend the flange over the edge of your work bench and the edge radius over a PVC pipe. So the only tool you need to buy or borrow is the shrinker. You'll also need to use a propane torch to anneal the flanges.

 

If you can't find any, let me know. I could roll some for you.

 

Think you could make some like this?

 

I can get you CAD data if you need it - let me know if the 5 degree slope is a problem as that feature is not really a must have, but looks cool IMHO.

 

Call or PM me with a price

-Chris

812 962 9417

locost_fender.jpg

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Metal Shaping 101

Here is how I make rear fenders. Using .063 aluminum 5052 or 3003 H-14

-- First roll sheet through rollers to curve ,this way edge isn't doing all

the work.This puts memory into metal,that it will want to go back to.Full arch unnessary,I go about 2/3 of the way.

-- Flatten sheet and brake body flange to 90 degrees.

-- Shrink 2" in on outer edge,then 1" in to finnish radius. While also shrinking body flange.This is what shapes fender arch.

--Use english wheel to smooth radius edge.

 

5 degree slope on fender means you start with curved, not square blank.so yes its a problem.

 

Yes! you can do this at home, but most shrinkers have a 1" throat so the radius edge is sharper,the pvc trick is important. Great!! first project, and you can buy a shrinker and do it for about the $250 plus shipping that I will charge for the job. Let me Know.:cheers:

Randy 541 474-1071

This message is Blastolene approved!

Edited by randy g
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  • 4 weeks later...
BTW - I got this response from Jack:

 

Hi Chris,

 

Nope, I'm strictly a fiberglass fender guy, and my things-to-do list is too

long to add a skill with that steep a learning curve. Which reminds me, the

usa7s.com discussion includes a comment from randy g stating...

 

> > I can make any thing. Go to Blastolene.com for pics. of my work.

...and boy howdy is he right about that!

 

PS--As you can see, I'm a lurker on usa7s.com but not by choice. My registered

screen name on usa7s is JackMcCornack (as it is everywhere) and I'd like to

chime in on the forum, but after the first time in, I've never been able to

log back on. I've tried the "forgot password" thing a number of times but no

joy. If somebody would tell me how to get logged in, I'd love to participate.

 

Regards, Jack

 

How did I miss this? I'll see if I can get it figured out.

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