Ultralite Header leaks?

[WestTexasS2K]

Most of us Ultralite owners have a few header leaks where the pipes slide into each other. Since they are multipiece to go around frame members. Kevin has had a friend down the road from him who worked in NASCAR for years and now has a hot rod shop. He has built a killer one piece header that has equal length tubes that merges from a 4 to 1 and it looks great. We are looking at getting them CNC bent for future customers. You can weld a V band or a standard flange on them to connect your exhaust to.

 

We are trying to get the best price we can on them. So if anyone thinks they might be instrested in upgrading to this header send me a PM. They wont be cheap about 600.00

[Boxologist]

i know on the Caterham-side that they have seen better HP numbers in the high rpm range by using a 4-2-1 collector setup. Do u know if that setup has been tried on the S2000 engines? Can Kevin's prep an exhaust like that?

 

The v-band option is a really nice touch. That would add a bit of rigidity w/ the minimal exhaust mounts a se7en would run.

[Mondo]

How do you get a one-piece header to go around that one section of frame tubing? Do they all go over it?

Edited June 24, 2010 by Mondo

[DeanG]

1) Remove engine

2) Remove existing header

1) Insert new header

2) Reinsert engine

[rnr]

My header setup is slightly different with two on either side of the frame tubew

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4402112411_16069a1da6.jpg

[jimrankin]

My S2K has the headers like Mondo's and had the following problems. I had an exhaust leak at the head at #2 cyl. header pipe. When I took off the headers to replace the gasket I found two problems. (A) The header pipe had been resting solid against the frame diagonal brace so that the motor could not move in the rubber mounts, forcing the header flange to "tweek" a bit and leak. (B) there was only one exhaust gasket, between the header and the steel "spacer" plate, none between the plate and the head and that was where it had started to leak.

I put a dimple in the pipe right where the rub mark was and got about 3/16" + clearance and now have room for the motor to flex a bit. Put it all back with two gaskets, lots of copper coat and it has been fine since.

I now have a problem with the muffler to cat flange weld. The original weld did not penetrate far enough into the flange, just sat up on the muffler cover and gave out at the last track day. In the process of getting it welded by a "pro" as it is too light a gauge (and where you can see it) for my limited talents.

[Mondo]

Funny, on my everlasting search for rattles I just noticed last week that same header pipes touching the frame and am having a dimple put in it. All the other pipes are well clear. I've also had a bracket welded on the the rear of the muffler that bolts (rubber spacers) to the frame under the seat so it just doesn't hang there.

[JohnK]

The second set of headers I got with my kit didn't rest directly against the oil filter like the first set, but one pipe did rest soundly against the chassis. A mechanical engineer friend suggested the fix shown: sound without requiring a complicated fabrication (of course he wasn't the one to have to sit inside the chassis and do the welding). The vertical beneath the cutout is to prevent buckle.

[S1Steve]

Hi John,

I see you came to terms with that welder, nice work. Is your car done , I'd like to see more photo's of it.

All is good, Steve

[WestTexasS2K]

The routing has changed from car to car, one tube gets very close to the chassis they also get very close to the motor mount and

melts the rubber isolator. This design goes over the chassis bar and will clear the motorount by two or so inches. Kevin will send me some pics when the protype is finished hopefully this week

[WestTexasS2K]

Sorry for the delay in posting some pics. This is what we are looking at doing. This one has alot of welds but the new ones will be mandrel bent with fewer welds. If anyone is intrested in going this route let me know. If we get a few sets done they are more reasonable priced.

[rnr]

Sorry for the delay in posting some pics. This is what we are looking at doing. This one has alot of welds but the new ones will be mandrel bent with fewer welds. If anyone is intrested in going this route let me know. If we get a few sets done they are more reasonable priced.

 

What kinds of gains are you expecting? I'd be interested if the price and performance are right.

[WestTexasS2K]

I don't know that you will have much gain in power it just eliminates the leaks at all the slip joints. That constant ticking exhaust leak drives me nuts. It is probably going to cost about 500.00 for a set. We won't have a final price until we know how many we are going to make.