Al N. Posted April 26, 2007 Posted April 26, 2007 I have the Caterham USA Zetec "Supersport" package...which came with throttle body fuel injection and supposedly a hotter cam. I may pull the head soon to see if any of my little "cooling hose" mishaps (3 to date, all months apart) may have caused damage to the head gasket. (Or I may just get the fluid tested for exhaust gas.) And I figured...IF I'm going to pull the head, why not put a hotter head on? I'm sure the TBs and injectors would be up to it, with a little ECU tuning. Is there anything else I need to worry about? Am I stupid for thinking of doing this? Has "Power Envy" clouded my judgement?
11Budlite Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 Hi Al, If it were me, I'd check the coolant for exhaust gases, make sure the radiator cap and thermostat are functioning properly, and if everything's ok leave it as is for now (maybe come up with a better clamping arrangement). If you need more than 202hp come this winter, then change it out then!! As far as the head you have on there now, it looks like they've raised the C/R, upgraded the cams (don't see the lift/duration), but I didn't see anything where they ported the heads. Seems like you have a pretty stout motor for the street/autoX already. If you were planning on doing some track events it might be worth it to upgrade further. Best to check with people who are much more knowledgeable with the Zetec motor than me... I know you were looking into getting a Raceline water rail...I have one on my zetec and it REALLY cleans up the mess at the back of the head. Bruce
Al N. Posted April 27, 2007 Author Posted April 27, 2007 Bruce...thanks for the input. Did you retain the stock 2.0 Liter waterpump wiht the Raceline water rail? And no worries about not having an easily visible coolant level?
11Budlite Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 Hi Al, I have a ZX1 engine and I think it's the 1.8 water pump because it doesn't have an idler pulley to reverse the rotation. I haven't run my car since I put the water rail on, but I think I'm just going to use a standard overflow tank fed from the 1/4" outlet on the thermostat hsg. Probably not ideal, but I can always change it if it doesn't work properly. Bruce
stevet Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 Al, is this all because I signed up for Autox lessons... you can tell me, it's OK, I feel your pain. :rofl:
yellowss7 Posted April 27, 2007 Posted April 27, 2007 Al, don't let them try to psych you out! Sunday is going to be a nice day for an autox especially compared to 2 weeks ago. This one is at the Boeing helicopter plant just off I-95 just an exit past the Philly airport. Smaller lot but will be fun. If you don't drive the 7, the offer is still open to ride with me and I may be able to convince an instructor to let you take a run in mine. PM me if you need more info. I run in the 4th heat which should start around 2:30-3:00 PM. Hope to see you there. If not May 6th is another one at the Warminster location. Tom
Al N. Posted July 18, 2007 Author Posted July 18, 2007 I'm adding to this thread, mostly to bump it up...but also to see if anyone has tried the Cosworth/FocusSport Zetec head. For a Cossie massaged head, it doesn't seem like a bad deal. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
drew... Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Is the SVT head and the Cosworth/FocusSport Zetec the same thing? With the SVT head, variable cam timing and the varied length induction I acheive a 0-60 in 3.8 seconds with two people in the car.
Al N. Posted July 19, 2007 Author Posted July 19, 2007 The SVT head is actually different (and a rare bird to find salvage, I've been told)...it's got bigger valves BUT has the ports is different locations...meaning my TBs wouldn't be a simple bolt on. And considering I've already cut a hole in the bonnet to fit them... Drew...how did you get that 3.8 time? Using a Traqmate or something?
roll a 7 Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 The SVT head is the only one, to my knowledge, that was designed for the zetec, from scratch, by Cosworth. The other is, I suspect, a variant of the standard head reworked, or, at best, the Ford Racing head revisited. Your throttlebodies can be fitted to the SVT head with some fettling. DougL on the CCC website can tell you just what to do. He did it. I bought an SVT head on FocusFanatics a while back and still believe that they can be found if you really want one. It's likely a less expensive AND better alternative, in my opinion. It has the biggest valves on a zetec and Cosworth designed porting, which is what I think that you are trying to get. With a stock zetec head gasket it will even raise your compression a few tenths, if you are going powermad. The svt choice is truly the most Cosworthy of the lot, I'd say. And may be the least costly.... It's advantages should give it the chance to be the best performer among the entrants. An easy decision for me....
drew... Posted July 19, 2007 Posted July 19, 2007 Al - Passport G-Timer RR2 mounted on the windsheild.
SR27.Seth Posted July 20, 2007 Posted July 20, 2007 For a Cossie massaged head, it doesn't seem like a bad deal. \ What kind of price are you talking about? I garauntee that a professional head builder could get more flow from the head on your car than the Cosworth will have And I am not saying anything bad about Cosworth- I have a picture of Kieth Duckworth over my work bench- but your still getting something 'generic'. When we have head work done by John Parker Racing, 'simple street' head work runs about $1500-2000, while race heads cost anywhere from $3000 and up. Results are certain- Given you can tune the motor!
Al N. Posted July 20, 2007 Author Posted July 20, 2007 When I looked at the flow charts, the Cosworth Zetec head was well beyond the Ford Racing head. I don't have them handy at the moment, but it was a substantial improvement. You can see the prices and specs over on Focus Sport. It's in line with your ballpark costs, Seth. I think you might be suprised at how "ungeneric" it is. I also had talk with Ken over at Cosworth... Rolla7...I do know about the SVT option, but a talk with Ben at RMSCi made me think twice. Apparently you have to fabricate a flange and weld and....more than I feel like doing. And gosh, it's situations like this when I wish we had one consolidated forum (I'd have to dig up my CCC password again). Of course, there are many ways to skin the proverbial cat. Maybe I'll just rip out the Zetec and put in an H-1 (don't I wish!!!) I am going to find out what the Cosworth Cam is like compared to the Kent that's in my Superlight. BTW, does anyone know if it's the Focus 12 or Focus 2 (or the FZ2003)? I've put a feeler out to Cody, but heard nothing back yet.
Cherik Posted July 23, 2007 Posted July 23, 2007 Al, do you have one of Jon Nelson's (RMSCI) ported heads on there now? That TB/manifold he made is quite good. The standard TB's (like Jenvey / Lumenition) have a kink that limits power >7000rpm. Contouring the TB/head transition and gasket with a dremel tool (sanding drum / polish weheel) can solve some of that. I doubt if the Cossy head will give more, although combined with Jon Nelson's TB/Manifold it might. Of course, this is probably for flow >7000rpm. Not sure it'd help for Auto X. You'd want to play with gear ratio's for that :-) As far as cooling issues - I agree with Bruce regarding the Raceline water rail. It does clean up the mess. I use a plastic vented over flow bottle to check the water level. The filler cap has the dual vent valve in it to prevent undue evaporation. Cherik
Al N. Posted July 23, 2007 Author Posted July 23, 2007 Cherik (have I told you enough how much I dug the Illinois/Wisconsin posse and your cars?)...I have the head which was used on the "Supersport" Zetec setup. I don't know how ported/polished that head is...according to a few people it's just milled to bump up compression... If that's so, then the Cossie head seriously outflows the stock (and also the Ford Racing head: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2124883889_fshead_vs_stock.jpg Note, I did end up going Raceline water rail....no problems so far. And, as you know, it was HOT down in NC.
Al N. Posted July 23, 2007 Author Posted July 23, 2007 Here is the Ford Racing data...though it is NOT apples to apples (28" to 50" of water...whatever that means). TYPICAL AIRFLOW (@ 28" OF H20 DEPRESSION) AS DELIVERED LIFT INTAKE FLOW(SCFM) EXHAUST FLOW(SCFM) .050 38.0 32.8 .100 80.7 74.9 .150 119.1 109.1 .200 153.7 144.6 .250 181.0 167.9 .300 193.0 186.0 .350 204.8 188.5 .400 214.0 193.1 .550 220.3 195.2 Can someone smarter somehow factor in the difference in "water" and let me know if the Ford Racing one is comparable?
Cherik Posted July 24, 2007 Posted July 24, 2007 Al, I can't say enough how much we enjoyed being part of the magical event! Ok, here goes $.02 - it's not all personal opinion, there's some trial and error experience in here as well :-) The flow numbers look very good. The 28" / 50" would translate to.... 10mtr H20 Column = 1 Bar, or 14.5 psi, so then 40" is about 1 mtr, or .1 Bar or 1.45psi. Point of that is to acknowledge the inherent turbulence effects which make the flow numbers non-linear with the degree of vacuum. The pics on the Cosworth website look very good. The CNC method should yield a very predictable result and with their enormous knowledge base likely a very good one. Having said that, it's interesting to see that for most commercially available 300...400cc cylinders the .4" lift is viewed as a reasonable limit for street ( The graphs confirm that. But.. think about where you want to go make the power with that head. A cam with a fast rising opening profile is what you'd be looking for. The best way to extract max performance is to consider the whole path: TB's, manifold, tract, valve profile. Then dynamically look at the opening transition (as fast as the cam drive allows) and the edge turbulence effects - these are usually quoted at or near .040" lift. This is the initiation of the stream into the chamber. The interesting parameter to play with is the intake cam adjustment - small steps can cause big changes in torque profile. From my past tinkering I know that small edges and steps can really spoil the flow in any intake system. Somewhat less so in the exhaust, due to the higher pressures. Intake trumpet profile is critical as well. Make sure you have at least 90dg curled flares, but better is to get the full 180dg curled intakes. Look at their flow numbers (!). Anyway, many chapters have been written on this, but in the end you have to go play with it to get the maximum. I'd suggest to ask RMSCI if that head was ported.... I thought Jon N. quoted 220HP with his combined TB/Manifold with a slightly ported head, 270dg/9.7mm cams, and 10.5 CR, but I could be wrong. Cherik
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