dropping ol pan on S3 kent 1600

[ultraslow]

I have an unmodified kent 1600 in my S3. I want to change to a sump with more ground clearance. Is there any trick, short of pulling the engine for accessing the two rear bolts that hold the oil pan on? The bolts are under the bell housing. Help please!

[xflow7]

I have an unmodified kent 1600 in my S3. I want to change to a sump with more ground clearance. Is there any trick, short of pulling the engine for accessing the two rear bolts that hold the oil pan on? The bolts are under the bell housing. Help please!

 

It may depend on the bellhousing/g-box you have.

 

With the bellhousing for the Type-9 5-speed on a Kent, there is an aluminum dust shield that closes off the bellhousing where it hangs behind the oil pan. You can remove this with a couple of bolts into the bottom of the bellhousing and gain access to the rearmost bolts without disturbing the engine at all. You'll need a socket extension to get up to them and they're a bit hidden from view, but you *can* get to them.

 

Not sure if that description made sense!

 

Dave

[ultraslow]

I have a four speed but I will look and see if there is access via this route.

Thanks

ultraslow

[11Budlite]

I did this job a couple of months ago on a friends '92 Caterham X-flow and my experience was just like Dave's. It really wasn't that bad of a job. We ended up using Permatex "Right Stuff" RTV instead of the gasket set and the last I knew there were no leaks. I'm interested to know what oil sump you're going to use?

[ultraslow]

Bruce, It is a higher clearance pan I bought from Redline UK.

ultraslow

[ultraslow]

Dave and Bruce, I was indeed able to get at the offending back bolts on the pan via the tender under belly, between the engine and the bell housing. Many manual contortions and much cussing accompanied the effort. Now to fab a new oil pickup if Redline doesn't carry one for this pan. Thank you both again.

Steve=ultraslow

[xflow7]

Dave and Bruce, I was indeed able to get at the offending back bolts on the pan via the tender under belly, between the engine and the bell housing.

 

Glad that worked out for you.

 

Many manual contortions and much cussing

 

Just wait until you try to re-install the new one from underneath while keeping the fore and aft rubber seal sections in place. :willy_nilly:

 

Actually, I'm interested in Bruce's experience using the RTV. I have an irrationally strong aversion to using goo in place of gaskets, but the 4-piece cork/rubber arrangement is a royal PITA (at least with the engine in situ), so I may consider trying that in the future.

 

Pegasus I think has a 4-piece cork set which is evidently also less troublesome than the cork/rubber arrangement, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

Dave

[coffee break]

We ended up using Permatex "Right Stuff" RTV instead of the gasket set and the last I knew there were no leaks.

 

Please tell me more...

How was the RTV applied, an even layer of xx thickness or a bead of xx height.

Did you go with a "snug" tightening of bolts or a specific torque value?

 

Thanks,

Carl

[TheDingo8MyBaby]

I've never really liked the cork gaskets for the pan - they still tend to leak no matter what you do.

 

I also highly recommend "the right stuff". I've had much better results than cork.

 

The sealant should be applied to the outer perimiter of the Sump & completely around the bolt holes but avoiding an excess that could fall into the Sump. Spread with your fingers until you have a nice even thin coat. I don't like to have a bead at all.

 

I assume it's a 711 block. If you're really set on using a gasket, Burtons do one out of paper with neoprene end seals.

 

I tend to use 4-6lbs or "snug." The key is not to overtighten, but check relatively often. As someone else recommended, use loctite.

[11Budlite]

I ended up using the "Right Stuff" on the advice of TheDingo8MyBaby and installed it like he recommended above. So far it seems to be working fine.

[ultraslow]

Well, getting the pan off was one thing, however, getting it back on with the engine in place is a different thing. Must be making sacrifices to the wrong pagan gods. I am going to have to pull the engine. . Am going to try the Right Stuff route as the rubber front/rear seals do indeed fall out all to easily. Will keep you posted.

 

Oh, Redline sent me the wrong oil pickup tube and are now standing mute to my requests as to the availability of the "correct" one. I will most likely have to cut and braze the one I have. Bummer!

Ah yes, The English; 1950's technology and they are working half-days to catch up. I do love this car. Weather is great and it is up on stands.

We shall see

ultraslow

[tikijose]

You should be able to get the pan back on by shifting and wiggling it into place. Make sure to remove the dust cover from the flywheel housing that was recommended earlier. I just did this job recently and had similar problems. I got it in once, but finally took out a grinder and modified the hole where the oil pickup goes through. Taking about an eighth of an inch off the back of the hole allows for quite a bit of movement and makes it easy enough to get in. Just remember to clean ALL the metal filings out with copious amounts of solvents. I did use the rubber front and rear seals and cork gaskets with a tiny bit of Permatex on the block side of the cork and where the rubber meets the cork. It's holding well after a month no leaks. It'll all be worth it when you're done. Good luck.

[ultraslow]

I want to apologize to Redline. It appears that thery did indeed send the correct pickup tube.

Question, Tikijose, Did you loosen the motor mounts to shift the engine forward so as to get the dust guard out? Or what?

I would dearly love not have to pull the engine; I mean it's real and it's fun but it isn't real fun.

ulreaslow

Edited October 16, 2012 by ultraslow
misspelling

[xflow7]

Hi Steve,

 

Of course your new pan may be different, but I'd be very surprised if you really had to remove the engine to get the pan back on. And you shouldn't have to mess with the engine mounts at all to get the dust shield out (and didn't you already remove it to drop the pan in the first place?)

 

Having said that, it's very likely you'll end up having to tilt the pan around a bit to work it up over the pickup and into place. That's why installing it in situ with the cork/rubber gaskets is such a PITA. But if you go the Right Stuff route, that should be less of an issue.

 

Dave

[tikijose]

No, I didn't need to move the mounts at all. The dust cover has two bolts that are about 14mm, a third 10mm or so that attaches a ground or something on the right side and you have to pull the starter. At that point, it's a bit of a puzzle to wiggle it around and find the angle that allows it to come off. Once off, you'll want to get a brush or vacuum handy to clean out the dust that accumulates there. Once that's out though, you should have access to the back pan bolts.