Brunton M-spec #007

[subtlez28]

So, bad news first. We got rained out on last Friday night, so we didn't get to run down the drag strip. Times are coming though, I promise!

 

That was actually ok, as I worked on the car until after midnight (before the road course) fitting the hood and tying up last minute things. I ran without the rear body work.

 

Good news: perfect weather on Saturday for our High Speed Autocross. As expected, even though this was literally the first time I dove it other than rolling around the parking lot, I found the confidence to push it right away! The car is obviously capable and surprisingly forgiving.

 

It was the third fastest car there, behind a heavily modded GTR (no real hope of catching him), and a LS swapped - well sorted and moded Datson 240Z (driven by a very skilled and experienced driver).

 

The form of racing I do is called High Speed Autocross. We run on ~2 mile road courses, from a stop, one lap for time (no cones).

 

http://www.mcscc.org/autocross.php

 

The car ran a 1:19.760. To put that into perspective, my fastest time with my old 02 Z-28 was 1:25.809, and I ran a 1:24.839 with a 2012 ZL-1 (580 HP Camaro).

 

I have some video. I will edit and put something together when time allows. Though it does not capture the excitement as it looks pretty low drama with slicks.

 

This thing hauled. Enough power on tap to light the tires in 4th gear meant busying myself with shifting much was not needed. It also helped me keep the rpms down for the maiden voyage (don't think I was taking it too easy though).

 

Going ~130 mph with no windshield was quite the rush! I know better understand the chin strap as the wind wanted to rip it off my head!

 

I absolutely love the manual steering! I finally understand what the car review guys mean when they say they can feel what the tire is doing through the wheel! I am strongly considering a move to manual brakes for the same reason.

 

As far as teething issues, there were only a couple. I discovered another pin hole in my passenger side header (at a factory weld...).

 

With the 23" slicks, I ran the track in 4th and 5th gear (needed 5th). I think I will move to taller slicks. Shifting into overdrive (5th) was not as speedy as the other gears. And the vague CTS-V shifter might not be helping that. Just stuff to refine.

 

I also started experiencing a bit of front brake lock up in fast corners (like the 130 mph one at the end of the front straight). Not so much at weight transfer. I'm used to ABS cars, but that wasn't my mistake. It happened late in the braking. The proportioning valve is already allowing full pressure to the rear, so that isn't the issue. I may try a more aggressive rear compound and taller slicks for the next event.

 

Long term I think I will go with race style manual brakes with split masters and a balance bar.

 

Another issue was temp. According to my Speedhut CAN-BUS (reading through the OBDII diagnostic port) my LS (stock 195 thermostat and water-pump) was running 210-220 moving and as much as 240 sitting still. Not sure if this is normal with the Evans waterless coolant, the gauge is off, or if the fan is just not able to keep up (puller). I may swap to a larger, pusher fan.

 

I'm rambling a bit. I look forward to any feedback or conversation on my results.

[toedrag]

Fantastic! Glad you had a good time. Great to hear about the manual steering.

 

On the coolant question...I know the LS3 runs warmer than most, but still, 240 sounds pretty toasty. Air lock in the system somewhere? Did you feel the coolant hoses at the radiator, were both hot? Is there any chance the gauge was pulling the PID for oil temp instead? Also, if you want, you could temporarily unplug the harness from the coolant temp sensor while the engine is hot and measure the resistance between the two pins of the sensor. Use the table below to compare with the reading from your gauge. The data below is from a Duralast SU112, which should be equivalent to the stock LS3 coolant temp sensor, but there may be a couple ohms difference. This would at least confirm if the gauge is accurately reading what the sensor is reporting to the ECU.

 

R(ohms) | Temp (F)

37.2 | 320

40.6 | 310

45.6 | 300

51.7 | 290

58.3 | 280

70.3 | 270

77.2 |260

90.8 | 250

106.6 | 240

124.7 |230

145.9 |220

172.8 |210

204 | 200

246 |190

296 | 180

357 |170

434 |160

525 |150

634 |140

775 |130

970 |120

1237 |110

[xcarguy]

Z,

 

Great to see some feedback, especially from an M-Spec owner.

 

. . . . I found the confidence to push it right away! The car is obviously capable and surprisingly forgiving.

 

It was the third fastest car there, behind a heavily modded GTR (no real hope of catching him), and a LS swapped - well sorted and moded Datson 240Z (driven by a very skilled and experienced driver) . . . . . The car ran a 1:19.760.

 

You will only get faster. :jester:

 

Going ~130 mph with no windshield was quite the rush! I know better understand the chin strap as the wind wanted to rip it off my head!

 

You'll be faster (less distracted) with the wind screen. I ran at Cresson with and without a windscreen; lots of buffeting there without something to help deflect the wind up and over your helmet.

 

I absolutely love the manual steering! I finally understand what the car review guys mean when they say they can feel what the tire is doing through the wheel! I am strongly considering a move to manual brakes for the same reason.

 

:iagree: Ditto on both.

 

As far as teething issues, there were only a couple. I discovered another pin hole in my passenger side header (at a factory weld...).

 

Dang it, Scott! :toetap05:

 

With the 23" slicks . . . . I think I will move to taller slicks.

 

You'll be faster in the corners and will be able to put more power down sooner out of the turns. With my move from a square setup running 10.7/21.5-15 (21.85" dia) to a staggered setup running 10.0/23.5-16 front (23.6" dia) and 11.0/23.5-16 rear (23.5" dia), my sustained cornering G force increased from 1.2 to 1.5.

 

I also started experiencing a bit of front brake lock up in fast corners . . . . It happened late in the braking. The proportioning valve is already allowing full pressure to the rear, so that isn't the issue. I may try a more aggressive rear compound and taller slicks for the next event.

 

Long term I think I will go with race style manual brakes with split masters and a balance bar.

 

subtle, this is very interesting. Sounds like you and degoetz are locked (sorry for the pun) on to something regarding the power assisted brakes and front wheel lock up. degoetz is running a smaller 9.5"w x13x 20" tall tire vs. your 23x9.5x15. You say you are locking up late (end of braking). Touch base with degoetz and see where is is locking up under braking (early, late, etc.) and compare notes. This info could be very beneficial to power-braked Storker owners.

 

 

Another issue was temp. According to my Speedhut CAN-BUS (reading through the OBDII diagnostic port) my LS (stock 195 thermostat and water-pump) was running 210-220 moving and as much as 240 sitting still. Not sure if this is normal with the Evans waterless coolant, the gauge is off, or if the fan is just not able to keep up (puller). I may swap to a larger, pusher fan.

 

On the street, I consistently see 180 (highway cruising) with no fan running/needed. 210-220 on track seems normal. I basically had the same 'sitting still' issue with my small 10" puller fan. I now have both the small puller and a larger 15" pusher fan installed. I also use a 22psi radiator cap. I have no overheating issues. With the pusher fan installed, I hardly ever use the smaller puller (just peace of mind). See this links for fan and rad cap:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6858&g2_page=2

 

I'm rambling a bit . . . .

 

Nope . . . . You're sharing valuable Storker info. :cheers:

[subtlez28]

Fantastic! Glad you had a good time. Great to hear about the manual steering.

 

On the coolant question...I know the LS3 runs warmer than most, but still, 240 sounds pretty toasty. Air lock in the system somewhere? Did you feel the coolant hoses at the radiator, were both hot? Is there any chance the gauge was pulling the PID for oil temp instead? Also, if you want, you could temporarily unplug the harness from the coolant temp sensor while the engine is hot and measure the resistance between the two pins of the sensor. Use the table below to compare with the reading from your gauge. The data below is from a Duralast SU112, which should be equivalent to the stock LS3 coolant temp sensor, but there may be a couple ohms difference. This would at least confirm if the gauge is accurately reading what the sensor is reporting to the ECU.

 

R(ohms) | Temp (F)

37.2 | 320

40.6 | 310

45.6 | 300

51.7 | 290

58.3 | 280

70.3 | 270

77.2 |260

90.8 | 250

106.6 | 240

124.7 |230

145.9 |220

172.8 |210

204 | 200

246 |190

296 | 180

357 |170

434 |160

525 |150

634 |140

775 |130

970 |120

1237 |110

Toedrag, you are a wealth of information!

 

Z,

 

Great to see some feedback, especially from an M-Spec owner.

 

 

 

You will only get faster. :jester:

 

Agreed. I know I was the limiting factor, this is quite a car. It is a lot to learn. I'm new to the car and slicks (I was always a street tire racer). Plus, I haven't run a full season since 09.

 

 

You'll be faster (less distracted) with the wind screen. I ran at Cresson with and without a windscreen; lots of buffeting there without something to help deflect the wind up and over your helmet.

 

I don't know, I kinda like the bug splatters and scare factor of no windscreen. LOL. Actually, I intend to leave off the windscreen until I get it road legal. I don't want to run a wiper (hoping no windshield eliminates the legal need) and don't think WI DOT is ok with Lexan.

 

:iagree: Ditto on both.

 

 

 

Dang it, Scott! :toetap05:

Actually, I think Scott just welds LS1 flanges on some off the shelf (possibly small block Ford) headers. This is the second hole I have found... Dang it, Hedman...

 

 

 

You'll be faster in the corners and will be able to put more power down sooner out of the turns. With my move from a square setup running 10.7/21.5-15 (21.85" dia) to a staggered setup running 10.0/23.5-16 front (23.6" dia) and 11.0/23.5-16 rear (23.5" dia), my sustained cornering G force increased from 1.2 to 1.5.

 

 

 

subtle, this is very interesting. Sounds like you and degoetz are locked (sorry for the pun) on to something regarding the power assisted brakes and front wheel lock up. degoetz is running a smaller 9.5"w x13x 20" tall tire vs. your 23x9.5x15. You say you are locking up late (end of braking). Touch base with degoetz and see where is is locking up under braking (early, late, etc.) and compare notes. This info could be very beneficial to power-braked Storker owners.

 

 

 

 

On the street, I consistently see 180 (highway cruising) with no fan running/needed. 210-220 on track seems normal. I basically had the same 'sitting still' issue with my small 10" puller fan. I now have both the small puller and a larger 15" pusher fan installed. I also use a 22psi radiator cap. I have no overheating issues. With the pusher fan installed, I hardly ever use the smaller puller (just peace of mind). See this links for fan and rad cap:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6858&g2_page=2

 

 

 

Nope . . . . You're sharing valuable Storker info. :cheers:

Edited September 12, 2014 by subtlez28

[xcarguy]

I'm wondering about the same issue. I'm going in reverse order. Track 1st, road later. My hope is that I am not pulling enough Gs for long enough to run dry on my shorter tracks (~1.8-2 mile).

 

My oil pressure gauge is not giving me warning so far, but it is a CAN-BUS, not mechanical. I did that for simplicity, but am now questioning the logic... I worry that it just doesn't react fast enough to drop when the actual pressure does.

 

I have the LS3 Corvette pan. I wish I had an IR baffle when I put the motor together! I actually have a couple F-body ones on my never used shelf. My understand is also that the LS3 vette pan is lower profile and better braffled from the factory.

 

I looked into the scavenge only dry sump. I like that idea best, but I'm not sure I have the physical space to mount the pump. Maybe backward like the alt...

 

I have an accusump set up also on my shelf from my F-body days. I am hesitant to use it due to it's complexity and potential draw backs. But if I am starving the engine for oil, it may be a necessary evil.

 

Just a couple more events this season. I have much to sort out this winter!

 

Z,

 

Just taking my reply to your thread. The low pressure switch is a relatively easy install and is cheap insurance for quickly recognizing a low oil pressure condition, especially if you are tracking your car. The photo in the link below shows where my low oil psi switch is installed. Located on the driver foot well is the oil pressure sending unit for the Autometer oil pressure gauge (it’s the huge, gaudy thing located just behind the heat shield-wrapped brake/clutch reservoir hoses). On the right side of the oil sending unit (barely visible on the passenger side of the unit) is the low oil pressure switch (plumbed in between the sending unit and the oil pressure pickup line via a brass tee fitting. My switch is a Longacre 20 psi unit; I’ve included a link for the switch as well.

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23535

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-45620

 

FWIW, the second time I tracked my car, I triggered the low oil pressure switch (MSR Cresson, 1.7mi ccw course); it wasn't the track length that was the issuue, it was the lateral G-load in the turns. It was after this that I installed the baffle. This fix worked well with the 15” slicks I was running, but once I switch to the larger (taller and wider) 16” slicks, the light returned and on went the Accusump. IMHO, the Accusump is very simple and works exceptionally well as long as it’s properly installed and the proper pre-charge is maintained. If the proper pre-charge (pre-charge too low) isn’t maintained, the Accusump can/will hydraulic and activate the pressure relief valve . . . Ask me how I know this. :jester:

[subtlez28]

X,

 

What do you have for oil pressure when your oil is hot, at idle?

 

I'm not 100% sure I can trust these CAN-BUS gauges. They might be more like ball park factory gauges... I thought about tapping the oil line cover and running a mechanical gauge to see what kind of pressure I have.

 

Yeah, my accusump set up is still in the box. I may have to pull my motor this winter to get the trans out... If I do that, maybe it would be best to put on a scavenge only dry sump or that new IR baffle. I just cannot get past the compromises involved in the accusump.

 

Side question, what type of oil are you running?

[subtlez28]

The right lane trap mph was not working. Lets see who can guess what number I am...

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/28C34F2E-501D-4DA2-ACAF-4322112BB9F9_zpsk8yc0dgg.jpg

I went to a test and tune Weds with some friends.

 

I spent the first couple hours trying to diagnose a no-charging issue. Ultimately I gave up, charge it w jumper cables, pushed it through staging and made a run. Oddly after the run it started charging so I made a few passes.

 

I swapped out my 23" Hoosiers for some 25.5s. Not only do they look bad @$$, they allow me to run higher speed in fourth, avoiding using overdrive like I had to at BHF.

 

I ran 17 psi. I imagine it would have liked less pressure for drag racing, but really not what the tires are for. I also passed on the burn out since I am having issues with reverse...

 

My friend took a decent video that I will try to post soon. You can hear the poor Hoosiers begging for traction pretty much the whole way. I really couldn't go full throttle in 2nd (the gear I launch in) without burning off the tires. Third was also touchy.

 

I was short shifting an bit, which might explain the lower than expected trap speed.

 

Point being there is plenty left in it!

 

I also did a low speed autocross. It was in an oval track and infield, so it was pretty tight. Not ideal for such a powerful car. It also tended to push badly in low speed corners. I think this is a scrub issue, as the 15's I am running require spacers, so they are not optimal offset wise.

 

I also experienced front lock up again (running the 23"s).

 

I have one more high speed event in October. I am hoping the taller slicks help. I do not have time to do much with the brakes before then.

 

The off season will be the time for brake and oiling revisions.

[MightyMike]

Thanks for posting your time slip. Similar to mine. Traction is definitely the toughest part.

[subtlez28]

Agreed. I'm eager to see what some Drag Radials can do.

 

I think the rule of thumb is that every tenth you cut from your 60' is worth two tenths at the end.

 

So if I could muster a 1.60 (attainable for a street car) that puts me deep in the 11s.

 

Thing is we are spinning a long way down the track. So some traction could net us some impressive improvements!

[jlumba81]

Do you need to adjust your rake when using the taller rear tires?

[subtlez28]

I run a square set up. 25.5"s front and rear.

 

Made it much easier to load on the trailer! LOL

[subtlez28]

So, I've been a little neglectful of updates to my build. Over the winter I had to pull the car basically entirely apart. I had to have the T-56 repaired. That meant pulling the engine, which meant pulling the interior, bodywork, steering , exhaust and part of the front suspension.

 

 

The good news was with the engine, shelf, scuttle, and side panel out of the way, I was set to update an area I was not entirely happy with (brakes and pedals).

 

 

After much thought I took a chance on Wilwood's dedicated pedal set up. I felt this was an area worthy of improvement. Firstly, I was experiencing front brake lock up that I could not work out with the adjustable proportioning valve (limiting pressure to the rear). I was also skeptical of the need for power brakes on the car. I was already in love with the manual steering, and wanted similar feel and feedback in the brakes. I also like the spartan nature and effort required to hustle the car around.

 

 

Anyway, I probably should have taken better pics of the original set up. I was never truly satisfied with the pedal placement. Original set up included a Wilwood pedal for clutch, another for brake, and a custom set up from Brunton to allow a lot of accelerator pedal travel to actuate the "fly by wire" pedal/sensor, that was mounted up on the shelf. Their set up worked, just like I said, room for improvement.

 

 

Here is the Wilwood pedal set up. It looks and feels more race car now!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/B78F1382-A64F-4CD6-BFDE-AB83682E7BB4_zpshj2vtpkl.jpg

I did have to move the pedals rearward to clear the trio. I moved the seat back to compensate, and am overall happier.

 

 

The main draw was going to manual brakes, and divorced two master cylinders for the front and rear brakes. This also allowed for a balance bar to further tune the bias. Willwood's tech line guy was extremely helpful! At his recommendation I went with a 3/4" front and 7/8" rear master cylinder. I kept the original wildwood master cylinder for the clutch (in fact we kept the hydraulics in tact with the motor pulled to avoid the pain of bleeding again). Engine out allowed for much easier brake line modification as the brake masters (Wilwoods new mini masters) were on the floor rather than the shelf.

 

 

I relocated the accelerator pedal for the LS engine harness to under the shelf also. We were able to work out a ratio that allows 6" of accelerator pedal travel. A must to modulate the arguably overkill (no such thing) power level.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/48B76435-4529-4A3F-9FDE-795F26647F89_zpsa1zfh4wh.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/3CC66A33-86B0-402D-9994-CB0DADB1C18A_zpse1n7ljft.jpg

[subtlez28]

Part of my brake upgrade also called for a cool kit I found at Flyin' Miata. They machine Wilwood 4 pots to accept an integrated emergency brake. This was a double score as I wanted more brake power, and the OEM Miata calipers oriented the emergency brake toward the tub of the car. The FM kit had the brake cable run straight toward the inside (perpendicular to the rotor).

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/92172C4E-4E91-469E-A68C-828BBEEB6F63_zpsbnugzqyc.jpg

 

 

I am impressed with the machine work on the kit. I was also able to upgrade to the slightly larger (but still cheap) Miata "sport" rotors.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/CFA201D3-0616-413F-B6C8-A47D17E918D7_zpspfusfizp.jpg

 

 

The pretty purple anodizing didn't really fit my style, so I rattle canned them black quick prior to installation:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E5024D93-EFD8-49A1-9E8A-39880901B4AA_zps2lqkmcto.jpg

 

 

I also took the chance to install some longer ARP wheel studs. They went in with the hub in place (there is a relief cut out) which was a huge relief (see what I did there?!). I also needed the longer studs. I have to run a 13mm spacer on the front and rear to get the steel wheels to clear the beefy Wilwood calipers.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4BD45C03-ACCA-4B0B-96B7-A57747D0CCBB_zpsmvzyj4a7.jpg

 

 

I am now running Wilwood BP20 pads front and rear. So far so good. No issues with fade whatsoever (during 20 minute HPDE sessions). Gotta love light cars!

[subtlez28]

Another off season add on was to add some oil control. I had not yet noticed an issue, but guys with fast C6 vettes and another Stalker owner have found the limits of the Corvette pan's baffling. Improved Racing makes a set up to help with this. I figured it was cheap insurance. I considered an Accusump (in fact I have a whole set up I purchased for another LS racer), but for now I want to avoid the complication and room it would consume.

 

 

Of course I put off the undesirable task of dropping the pan until the day before my first event of the year (an HPDE at Blackhawk Farms).

 

 

The Improved Racing baffle can be purchased with a crank scraper/windage tray for the 6.2.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/D0A4696A-DACD-4C5A-9120-0D8D0C224FFA_zpsbosbexbt.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/FF3D92D4-61A4-452C-8CD3-596E4556E71A_zps10pwmxtx.jpg

 

 

While I was at it I squirted the white cowl black w Plasti-dip (love that stuff) and threw on the seat covers (I raced it last year with bare aluminum seats). Looking sinister!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/6914726C-E803-4B15-8C56-527F2F885095_zpsbtiqyk5g.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/DCB850FE-E188-454A-9130-AB0FDEFC773D_zpskxkc2mxf.jpg

[subtlez28]

I completed my first HPDE on Saturday. I had not done an HPDE before because I thought I would miss having the competition of lap times (like the full course HSAX - Time Attacks I do). I am hooked! Tons of lap time for the money, and passing is addictive!!!

 

 

I then competed in the HSAX at Blackhawk Farms on the following Monday (Memorial Day). I set fast time of day (admittedly the crazy fast cars from the club weren't there like the 1,000 HP GT-R, LS swapped Datson or race ready Evo)!! A friend snapped a pic of another friend of mine (and alignment guy) who co-drove (I was #228, he was #288 ). This time he didn't embarrass me by setting a faster time (in my car), like he did in a low speed autocross last fall...

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E811C4E3-6BFA-4312-8686-D6FEFF79E92A_zpstsmbfpre.jpg

 

I got to beat up on a kit Cobra (who admittedly was not driving with my level of aggression), Z06s, some dedicated race cars, and even a brand new Z/28 that weekend! Passing cars in a Storker is a thrill! The big 427 Camaro was the only one that really required much effort to pass. Light is good!

[Kitcat]

I love that you passed the Z/28. The ultimate track weapon gets stuffed by a home-built jalopy (His perspective, not mine:)).

[xcarguy]

Z,

 

More great stuff from another Storker driver; glad to see you out there having fun with the car! I'm currently in the 'very' early stages of rebuild prep for #85. Scott will be building a new frame for the car and is suggesting that I go back with power brakes. While my car requires (did require :jester: ) a generous amount of brake pedal effort to stop, the car had short brake pedal travel , a firm feel, stopped very well and allowed me to go much deeper into the braking zones than many other non-sevenesque cars. A few Storker drivers I've talked to swear by the power brakes as being the best thing since sliced bread. . . . . However.....there's the other side of the coin. Can you (would you) provide a fair comparison now you've had experience with both power and manual brakes on your car? Also, how does the new pedal setup compare to the old setup? Thanks.

 

X :cheers:

[toedrag]

It does look menacing! Nicely done!

 

You mentioned pain with doing the clutch bleeding. What issues did you have? Have you tried one of the pressure bleeding systems that attaches to the clutch MC?

[subtlez28]

Kitcat, yes, I bet the Z/28 driver was not pleased. He left early, so I didn't get to talk with him. He didn't seem to let off and "give" me the pass, but I'm not sure if he was new to the format or what. Either way it felt good. There was a Viper GTS in the HPDE beginner group. I would have really enjoyed passing him also!

 

X - glad to hear you are rebuilding! I look forward to the complete story.

 

I really like the new pedal set up. We have different brakes, but I wasn't able to solve my lock up issues. I think Scott and Glen like the power brakes for different reasons. Parking lot autocross is a different animal, and also explains their affection for power steering. Plus, they let others (Glens wife for one) drive the car. So, the high pedal effort is not ideal for them.

 

I was going into a tight over 90 turn with an entry speed of over 130 MPH. I have 100% faith in the manual brakes. I will trade the higher effort for better feel and simplicity. Personal preference only.

 

As far as the trio pedal placement, it is night and day better for me. I plan to talk to Scott about it as I think it would be a good way for future builders to go. The only catch is that they are further back from the firewall to clear. But if you have room to move your seat back, I would go this way for sure, given your track use.

 

Toedrag, I just had some issues with the bleeder seeping. Not a big deal but leaking fluids really set off my ADD. Plus, I hate repeating the same work. I bled it traditionally (guy on the pedal) and that worked ok. I also remember guys running 4th gen F-bodies having issues with these clutch bleedings, so again, I wished to avoid doing it again.

 

As the day wore on at the HSAX, I noticed a drive-line clunk. I tracked it down to the differential to chassis bolts loosening up (maybe 3 hours of track use now). I re-installed them with lock tight and lock washers today. Definitely something to keep an eye on while breaking in your new ride!

Edited May 27, 2015 by subtlez28

[subtlez28]

Cut and pasted from another tread/form:

I'm not 100% finished with my car yet (M-spec #007), but have been racing it since last fall. I don't have it all the way sorted yet but am very happy with its performance. I really want to hear numbers from other owners. These are impressive little cars!!

 

 

I don't have my rear body work, lights or front fenders mounted yet. But I did mock up my rear body work when I scaled it.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/6914726C-E803-4B15-8C56-527F2F885095_zpsbtiqyk5g.jpg

 

 

ROAD COURSE

It is hard to compare road course times I since we are scattered out throughout the country (and some outside the country I'm sure). But at my home track, Blackhawk Farms Raceway I have set fast time of day at the last two events! I race a format called High Speed Auto Cross (HSAX). This is a full track run, from a standing start, no cones.

 

 

My first time out (09/14) I ran a best time of 1:19.760. That is pretty quick, especially for a first event. For reference the fast time I ever ran with my old 02 Z28 was a 1:25.809 (a then class record on street tires). The current track record was set that day by a 1,000 HP, tuned GTR at 1:14.

 

 

I came back after a tire and brake change this season and have set FTD at both events running a 1:19.062 at the first event and a 1:17.321 at the next! I think with some aero, seat time and stickier tires that GTR's record may fall! Again, for reference the 2nd fastest car at my recent event was brand new Z28 (GM's new track toy) and it ran a 1:20.xxx. Man was it fun passing him and Z06 Corvettes in the HPDE that weekend!

 

 

1/4 MILE DRAG STRIP

I know these cars are not set up to be drag racers, but with the power to weight I knew it would be fun.

 

 

In 2014 I ran at a cold autumn open track night. Tires spinning well past 1/2 track I ran a best of:

12.336 @123.84 mph! Not bad, but due to some issues I was not able to do a burn out, and the road race tires were not ideal. My 60' was 2.261...

 

 

This year I went back, still on my vintage road race 25.5x10.0x15 Hoosier bias plies, but this time I had a warmer track and did a good burn out. Best run was:

11.429 @124.01 The big difference was the more respectable 1.815 60'.

 

 

I have some drag radials coming. I'm hoping to be in the 10's next time around.

 

 

 

 

WEIGHT

A racer friend let me borrow his scales this week. My car is a M-spec w the classic hood, an LS3, and T-56. I'm a little heavy though with the 15x10 steel race wheels.

1711 pounds with fluids (not quite full gas tank).

Empty it has a 50.5/49.5 front/rear balance.

With me in the car it weighs 1894 with a 47.7/52.3 weight balance.

 

 

0-60 Time

I haven't had a chance to capture that number, but I am eager to see what you other owners are finding. I'm guessing it will be quite impressive when I get the drag radials.

 

 

Lets hear some more numbers! I would also be interested in some top speed and lateral G numbers if anyone has recorded them. Heck, how about miles per gallon even! I like reading about new car performance tests. But, I'm even more interested in what our group of cars are capable of!