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Brunton M-spec #007


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We've made some progress on the build. The slip yoke idea didn't work out for the CTS-V T-56, so that meant a new output shaft needed to be put in. Upgraded a couple things while they had it open, and found the unit to be in great condition. That is the silver lining. The trans was the only used part in the drive line so its nice to know all is well with it.

 

I found a T-56 specialist a couple hours north of me. I decided to hand deliver the trans to avoid any risk of damage in shipping. Since I was making the trip I also brought along a F-body T-56 I scored on Craigslist. I got such a deal on it I assumed it was messed up. However, more good news there. It was good inside, and so I upgraded it with steel 3-4 shift forks, pads and billet keys. Now I have a fresh T-56 for the next project (maybe my DD 2012 Colorado w the 5.3).

 

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/DF44E943-1746-468B-AFE4-663F5F0D50BF_zpszz53crde.jpg

 

We worked on the rear suspension to get a the alignment close, and the settings right to get the shock travel where I wanted it. I purchased a few sets of suspension push rods to play around with length. I found out a big mail order circle track suspension place is like 20 minutes from me (Lefthander Chassis), so that made getting the parts easy.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/2BABDD19-7611-4A4E-B99A-F645641896CA_zpslil0idvq.jpg

 

We bled the brakes, and clutch hydraulics. It is starting to feel like a real car! I ponied up for some pretty parts. I really did not like the factory brackets for the coils. I guess it was to speed up production but on the early LS1s (97-98) the coils mounted directly to the valve covers, which were perimeter bolt. When they went center bolt they went to brackets. Anyway, I picked up some black Holley valve covers that have the bosses to mount the coils direct. I really like how they look.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/5E0225E1-CE08-4CEC-9F8F-8FC91259CA9E_zpsyhi0sci9.jpg

 

 

Next I need to set up the DBW throttle pedal and the air intake. My plan is for the intake to go right back through the scuttle and be in the interior between the shelf and dash. I figure this will be direct, and shield it from debris, water and heat. I don't see a lot of guys doing this so I am up for any advice on why this isn't common.

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It will just be noisy with the intake sucking from the inside, that's all. And of course, if you ever put a full top on it, all the windows will bow inwards. :-)

 

Tom

 

Thanks Tom.

 

I considered the intake noise, I'm ok with that.

 

It is unlikely this car will see a full top. But if it does I should never need to vacuum the interior, right?

 

Looking great, Z!!! Looking great! :hurray: As for mounting the air intake underneath the scuttle, you'll never hear it. And it's the most direct air intake path you can give your Storker. :jester: See mine:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23107

 

:cheers:

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Looking great, Z!!! Looking great! :hurray: As for mounting the air intake underneath the scuttle, you'll never hear it. And it's the most direct air intake path you can give your Storker. :jester: See mine:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23107

 

:cheers:

 

Outstanding! That is what I wanted to hear!

 

 

Thanks for the photo Xcar.

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Outstanding! That is what I wanted to hear!

 

 

Thanks for the photo Xcar.

 

 

Z,

 

FWIW, I remember talking to Dennis Brunton about the very same thing when I was first building my car. His intake was under the dash and I wanted to do the same thing, but was concerned about noise . . . his answer was the same as mine . . . . . and he was right. :cheers:

 

BTW, here are a couple of old photos of Dennis's car from 'back in the day' when it was almost complete . . . . I guess I keep everything. :hat: Anyway, notice where the intake terminates.

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Hahaha! Wow. Great idea pulling air from inside the car. It sure solves a lot of problems in a very simple way.

 

But it is not the first time I've seen the idea of pulling your intake air from inside the car...

 

Automoda, you should re-post that photo in the following thread; it's definitely worth some commentary:

 

 

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=9287

 

 

Well, Z, there you have it. You should absolutely pull air from inside the car. :cheers:

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You should absolutely pull air from inside the car. :cheers:

 

 

Noooooo! You have it all wrong! :svengo: You should definitely pull chicks with that car! :cooldude:

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I pulled the trigger on track wheels and tires this week (its that time of year I guess).

 

I decided on 23x9.5x15 Hoosier Road Race Slick Radials. I am a 20 minute drive from Berget Racing Tires, so going used made sense. The ones I got are at about 80%. Thanks SCCA run off participants!

 

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/89443D9A-5CEA-4B60-B3D3-6848C1396254_zpsseaamogp.jpg

 

I ordered a set of 15x10 Diamond Racing Wheels. Much heavier than I would like, but I got the whole set for less than a pair of custom aluminum wheels. I figure I need to get the car on track (and almost on budget) this year. I can upgrade to lighter wheels next year.

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i pulled the trigger on track wheels and tires this week (its that time of year i guess).

 

I decided on 23x9.5x15 hoosier road race slick radials. I am a 20 minute drive from berget racing tires, so going used made sense. The ones i got are at about 80%. Thanks scca run off participants!

 

I ordered a set of 15x10 diamond racing wheels. Much heavier than i would like, but i got the whole set for less than a pair of custom aluminum wheels. I figure i need to get the car on track (and almost on budget) this year. I can upgrade to lighter wheels next year.

 

 

. . . . . . . :D :cheers:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I mentioned before about some trial and error on the driveshaft. My original stance was to use adaptors on both ends to keep the factory 3 bolt flanges on the CTS differential, and the CTS-V T-56. I figured we could use a driveshaft with a splined section in the middle to take up any movement and ease installation. I had just that kind of driveshaft on my last Jeep Rubicon project.

 

Well, after some lessons learned, we went with my original idea.

 

Here is the adaptor made for the T-56 flange:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4ED13F71-81F5-496E-843F-BE4FE5DA44FF_zps4owx8eic.jpg

 

Here is the shaft:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/2E7DEB93-E357-43C3-B5A0-FEA475BACA36_zpslyiuwhdp.jpg

 

I asked for some input on running the intake. I liked the direct and literally straight forward (or backward in this case) route. I figured flow would be good, packaging would be clean, and dry air would be assured if the filter was on the cabin side of the cowl shelf.

 

However, a friend pointed out that it may cause me issue with some racing sanctioning bodies as it more or less defeats the idea of a firewall. Firstly I don't want to risk missing an event due to tech. Secondly the idea of a potential back-fire through the intake emitting fire directly into the cabin seems less than ideal.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/5F36385A-80EE-45DC-9E89-998C4E97BB73_zpsujdtbpru.jpg

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In other news, I received my Diamond Racing wheels. Steel 15x10s with a spun rim. I went this route based on budget. I want to get the car to the track soon. The wheels are of great quality! Obviously steel is a bit heavy, but custom aluminum can come later. The wheels are 21 pounds a piece, the Hoosier 23x9.5x15 Road Race Radials are around 19 pounds. So figure about 40 pounds per corner. Bear in mind this was measured using a bathroom scale, so it could be off a bit.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/5ED4F179-4C13-4192-9E38-C468A5180725_zpskwv9ticm.jpg

 

The sun is coming through the window behind the car, but here is pic of the wheels on the car:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4BC2407A-8FF0-4DA2-B282-5F7B7E871C39_zpspoqkjnmz.jpg

 

Another catch to using steel wheels is the lack of stand off from the wheel flange surface. Diamond racing told me this would be an issue, so it was no surprise. The problem is my brake set up is stock 10" Miata rotors with beefy Wilwood 4 pot calipers. So the caliper protrudes outward of the hub face, and since the rotor is so small, it is to near the center to allow the steel wheels gradual angle away to clear. No worries though. Nothing a spacer (15mm) and longer wheel studs cannot solve.

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Or you can right click on most any photo on the internet and select "copy image location" then paste it between and . You can then write captions, insert the image and write more text. Repeat as necessary.

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Thanks X!

 

I use Photobucket image links. It is just text while editing, then magically becomes a pic when you post.

 

Or you can right click on most any photo on the internet and select "copy image location" then paste it between and . You can then write captions, insert the image and write more text. Repeat as necessary.

 

. . . . . . and just when I thought I knew everything. :svengo:

 

 

:cheers:

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  • 3 months later...

I've been a bit neglectful of my build thread. Sadly, I am not yet racing the car, but I have made some progress of late.

 

One day, for inspiration I slapped on the hood and some of my magnetic racing numbers (that will be of no use to me on the fiberglass and aluminum skin).

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/8EDC2F8F-48BF-401F-B03D-B1FA822B16B1_zpshvk2q447.jpg

The bad news is the classic hood, does not clear the pushrod suspension...

 

A racer friend of mine came up from Chicago to align the car with me. So down from the tables!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/D5DC2A5A-6306-4FC9-B819-F234DD24A05C_zps4wjo4tys.jpg

This one is fuzzy, because I took it quickly with my cell phone. He was more than a little nervous about me stepping back for a photo op at this point!

 

Down safe and sound, time for a fun (giant wheel-stand) photo!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/9B4E4E28-2A5B-4E14-BE1A-602E98937794_zpsan8lectn.jpg

 

Got it aligned, but... I chose the middle height points for the control arms. With the oil pan being the low point... I could not run over a 2x4 laid flat with my 23" race tires... Doh, one step forward, two steps back seems my pace...

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