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WCM s2k front strut rubbing on control arm


wcmgoldie

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I just bought a 2005 WCM ultralight (goldie) and found that the front left spring on the strut was rubbing on the rear control arm. The right strut is centered between the two control arms. The owner stated that the car had a wobble in the front left wheel at 70mph, but I haven't really driven the car that fast yet to notice. The past owner thought it was a bent wheel but Im thinking this could possible be the cause. Im not too familiar with the car but everything else seems symmetrical. the heim joints have different numbers of threads showing, but I cant assume the opposite ends were welded to the brackets exactly the same on each side. Sorry if I am not using the right terminology for these parts. It doesn't appear that anything is bent or broken, hopefully its just and alignment issue? what are possible solutions?

 

Pictures of left strut rubbing:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/IMG_3348.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/IMG_3361.jpg

 

pictures of right strut centered:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/IMG_3353.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/IMG_3349.jpg

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That's not a good interference to have. Definitely fix that before driving fast. I'll take a few pics of my front end on my wmc ultralite. Strange how uneven they are.

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I'm not aware of that ever being wrecked. I've known every owner. It is a little difficult to tell in the photos. Is the lower shock bracket bent back at all? I would put a straight edge on the lower rear control arm it should be straight. Next I would check the control arm mount inside the body. Next I would check the length of of the inside control arm heim joint in comparison to the other side.

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I'm not aware of that ever being wrecked. I've known every owner. It is a little difficult to tell in the photos. Is the lower shock bracket bent back at all? I would put a straight edge on the lower rear control arm it should be straight. Next I would check the control arm mount inside the body. Next I would check the length of of the inside control arm heim joint in comparison to the other side.

 

Any chance the weld joints on the shock mounting brackets (tabs) could have fractured and broken at some point in time resulting in a repair that left the tabs welded off-center? There seems to be more of a gap between the mounting tabs on the LH side than on the

RH side (notice the spacer used on the LH side and no spacer on the RH side) . . . Just a thought. :rofl:

Edited by xcarguy
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I noticed it looked like one of the hiem joints was rewelded onto the bracket but the gap is 3" on both sides of the car where bother bars are welded to the bracket. It doesn't make sence how everything can be symmetrical but the strut is off center. I will have to do some more measuring and take the wheels off on Tuesday when I'm not working.

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Xcarguy - you are right they did put a spacer In the left lode that is rubbing so apparently someone was aware of a problem. Ill have to see exactly what was repaired and maybe have it done the right way if I can find someone that knows what they are doing.

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Xcarguy - you are right they did put a spacer In the left lode that is rubbing so apparently someone was aware of a problem. Ill have to see exactly what was repaired and maybe have it done the right way if I can find someone that knows what they are doing.

 

Besides the spacer, there are a couple of other things that suggest to me that this A-arm has been removed and possibly repaired:

 

a) The mounting hardware for the lower ball joint on the LH side is reversed in relation to the hardware on the RH side (lock nuts on top of LH A-arm vs. lock nuts on bottom of RH A-arm). While this could simply be an oversight, Brain Anderson was the original builder, and Brian, as methodical as he is, would have most likely assembled the A-arms side-by-side (at the same time), the same way.

 

b) The LH A-arm paint/powder coat has a dull sheen vs. the RH A-arm is reflective (perhaps a clear coat). This difference may be due to shadowing, lighting, etc., but worth a look.

 

'If' the A-arm/shock mount has been damaged, the best course of action might be to simply replace the A-arm. Loren Edwards (aka, WestTexasS2K) should be able to help you out with a replacement.

 

X

Edited by xcarguy
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Hi Garret, Those A arms are different, looking at your photo's. Looks like the taps are bent

 

in. I would call WestTexasS2K and get a replacement. If I can help just give me a call.

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