mrmustang Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 (edited) Well, spent the better part of the morning and early afternoon out in the SBY Birkin with my wife. 100+ miles of fun in the sun...Until I started to feel the clutch slipping, may be an adjustment, might need a new clutch. A turn around and a drive home ends what should have been a full day out..... So, what is everyones favorite clutch replacement? Zetec and T9 set up........ Thanks in advance, Bill S. Edited May 17, 2014 by mrmustang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Bummer, hate to have a good blat spoiled. I don't have any suggestions for parts, but I'm interested in the particulars, miles on clutch, any seal problems etc. Good luck with the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super7guy Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Depending on the flywheel and throughout bearing setup, you might look into RAM clutches. I was able to use one of their smaller (7.75') steel clutches predrilled for larger flywheel bolts and their 6 puck disc. All up weight is 9 lbs. The clutch assembly is thinner so resetup of throughout bearing is required. Their setup is for the Pinto 2300. My raceline flywheel was already drilled for larger bolts. Putting over 200 HP through it with no problems. Wayne in San Diego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Bill, we have had an interesting time with clutches in the race car and street/autocross car. Lesson number 1, clutches that work are very specific to the car they are going in, don't order a clutch set up until you have the one out of your car and can see the part numbers. We have installed a couple of set ups that looked and measured the same as come out of the car and they did not work... Lesson 2, buy a very high quality set up if you want it to last, we have found ACT to be a good choice but there are others that are likely as good. For combined use go with a sprung, "street" disc, the four and six puck disc tend to be very abrupt and not much fun on the street. While you are in there, replace all the associated bearings including the pilot bearing. Are there any gearbox issues that should be addressed while you are doing this? I can tell you what ACT disc and pressure plate fit our cars but again, it is specific to the flywheel you have. Good luck and have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
super7guy Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Bill, James is correct regarding the sprung disc, but I disagree with the puck being abrupt. The abruptness comes from the solid vs the sprung disc. Since most solid discs have pucks, they get thought of together. I found from RAM, a sprung disc with six pucks and it works fine on the street. My previous solid disc, not so well. The pucks make for a lighter weight disc assembly. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dallasdude Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Determine if you have a Mystique/Contour flywheel or a Focus flywheel before purchasing replacement parts. The size of the friction surface and distance inside the towers is different. Bolt pattern of the pressure plates is the same, but again the friction surfaces are a little different. If the car came with a VCT engine, It's probably (although not certainly) the Mystique/Contour variant. If it is a Focus style flywheel....the Ford racing (Centerforce actually I think) package is a pretty nice piece for about 225 bucks. Not the lightest but durable and smooth. Sprung hub with metal surface on one side the the disk...fiber on the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback, suggestions, and guidance...Keep them coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 There is another reason you may be right Wayne, and that is I have always used a very high spring rate pressure plate with the 4 and 6 puck disc and that could be a big part of the abruptness. I've always found the "solid" disc to have much smoother engagement, but again that could be the associated pressure plate. Mike has some good info, Focus versus Contour, make sure you know what you are starting with! a 236 versus 224mm friction surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceBe Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I'd like to echo comments made about measuring what you have before buying anything. The clutch disc hub diameter and spline configuration is very unique here in the US - 1971-1976 Pinto. While the Merkur XR4Ti was brought over with a T9, the input shaft spline configuration was different. An over the counter clutch system here in the US will not likely have the correct hub configuration, unless it is explicitly designed for a Pinto. As a point of comparison, the Caterham Duratec clutches are made up of a Saab 900 (circa 1982) pressure plate assembly (re-labeled by AP), and a 215mm organic AP racing disc. -Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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