Removing/replacing spark plugs

[AndyB]

Is it best done hot cold or does it matter?

I'm going to change my plugs, clean the air filters and balance the carbs and I'm trying to decide in which order.

 

Oh yes it's a twin cam so it's Aluminium or Aluminum.

 

Also is it true NGK plugs do not require anti-sieze ?

Edited June 9, 2014 by AndyB

[xcarguy]

Is it best done hot cold or does it matter?

I'm going to change my plugs, clean the air filters and balance the carbs and I'm trying to decide in which order.

 

Oh yes it's a twin cam so it's Aluminium or Aluminum.

 

Also is it true NGK plugs do not require anti-sieze ?

 

I prefer 'cold'; less chance of burning yourself. Metals expand with heat; less chance of galling threads if cold. I've never installed a set of plugs (regardless of manufacturer) without first applying anti-seize; would especially recommend if installing in aluminum or aluminium :jester: heads. My two cents. :cheers:

[coffee break]

Also is it true NGK plugs do not require anti-sieze ?

 

True or not, I use anti-seize. I bought a jar of it YEARS ago and haven't used it up yet. It's good insurance.

[S1Steve]

Is it best done hot cold or does it matter?

I'm going to change my plugs, clean the air filters and balance the carbs and I'm trying to decide in which order.

 

Oh yes it's a twin cam so it's Aluminium or Aluminum.

 

Also is it true NGK plugs do not require anti-sieze ?

 

Aluminum+Aluminum= anti-sieze

[RGTorque]

always pull plugs when motor is hot, or at least break them free when hot. if they are in there and corroded you risk snapping them.

[m wirth]

a tip my dad taught me was to do it cold, if possible, and after the initial break loose turn 1/4 turn then turn back in and repeat with 3/4 turn out then back in, repeat until removed or plug turns easily by hand. It's kind of like when you are tapping a hole only in reverse. This will help prevent any galling if the plugs have been in a long time and haven't been removed to apply anti seize. Sometimes even using a hand impact driver with a plug socket to initially shock the threads will help if you are suspicious of seized threads.

[slomove]

I use anti-seize but only if I see the thread is "dry". And if I put on new anti-seize I wipe off whatever is left of the previous application. I don't want to contaminate and short out the tip with excess goop. For that matter it should be used sparingly, anyway. I still have a tube of copper based anti-seize that I bought when I lived in Germany some 35 years ago. It will probably survive me.

 

I never found much difference between removing/installing hot or cold. I just torque to 15 ft-lbs. It stays put and is still easy enough to remove. If the plug is corroded in place it is anyway too late for anti-seize but then it may indeed be easier to remove hot or maybe after some liquid wrench soaking.

Edited June 10, 2014 by slomove

[pi7ot]

I'd recommend 30 mins or less after the engine has been at operating temp.

If the plug backs out hard when the engine is hot, it may be revealing a leaky head gasket into that cylinder, imo.

I use copper based antiseize. the aluminum based stuff is more likely to dry out and gall after several heat cycles,imo.

 

m