MightyMike Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 You may want to consider a Lokar dipstick. It fits nicely under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 I also used a C6 Corvette dipstick, but I had to bend the tube and cut the top of the handle to get it to fit. Works very well with my pan (LS1 F body pan). See photo in link: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=26669 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 You may want to consider a Lokar dipstick. It fits nicely under the hood. I don't think I will be paying for the dipstick, so I will take what they give me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 I got the engine mounted to my stand and pulled the Camaro oil pan, dipstick, and deflector. Corvette pan is backordered, but Summit wanted me to send these parts back for the exchange. I got a couple parts today from them that weren't backordered (dipstick, dipstick tube, and pickup seal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 The fun has begun. Glad to see you're also adding photos to the Stalker gallery :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) I got my CNC mill computer on the network so I could use it to view the build files and videos in the shop. The phone was not cutting it. I get frustrated without a keyboard and mouse. The floor pans and seat back are done. I plan to start on the hip panels tomorrow. I have to replace another light ballast though. These dang Lowes lights I put in when I built the house are junk. I think this is the 4th ballast to go out. Hopefully the new ones I have been putting in are better. So far none of those have failed and they don't seem to buzz as much. Edited August 11, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Hip panels and tunnel in. Slow going so far. It is taking a little longer because my car and panels aren't quite the same as the videos. Figuring out how to make the back of the tunnel fit nice took awhile. If you cut the seat back per the videos, then it is hard to figure out what to do with the gaps. The U shaped tunnel is just trimmed in the back with no flanges (unlike the 3 pieces in the video). So it is hard to make no gaps and get the metal to clear welds. I ended up using door edge on the rear of the tunnel where it butts to the seat back. This helps take up the gap left if you cut the seat back large enough to compensate for the welds. It also holds the back of the tunnel up letting it roll up above the weld cutouts. I basically shaped the top of the seat back tunnel to the shape of the welds, so you couldn't get it any closer than I did. It's hard to tell in the pictures with all the paper on there, but it joins up nice and looks clean. No flanges and no screws in the area between the seats above the tunnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 The U shaped tunnel is just trimmed in the back with no flanges (unlike the 3 pieces in the video). So it is hard to make no gaps and get the metal to clear welds. I ended up using door edge on the rear of the tunnel where it butts to the seat back. This helps take up the gap left if you cut the seat back large enough to compensate for the welds. It also holds the back of the tunnel up letting it roll up above the weld cutouts. I basically shaped the top of the seat back tunnel to the shape of the welds, so you couldn't get it any closer than I did. It's hard to tell in the pictures with all the paper on there, but it joins up nice and looks clean. No flanges and no screws in the area between the seats above the tunnel. I noticed this too on my build. Good idea on the door trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Forgot to ask earlier... For the forward section of the tunnel (not the u-shaped AL piece), I know which piece to use for the top, but for the two side pieces, the two panels I have which I think are to be used for this are quite oversized...I want to say they are 4' long and maybe 15" wide with a 1" flange on the long edge. I'm estimating these measurements since I'm away from the garage at the moment. Is this also what you have? All my other panels are accounted for, so I'm not sure what else these big panels would be used for if not the forward tunnel side pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 The only long flange pieces I think I have are the car sides and they have two flanges. I believe all the side tunnel and stuff are 14.25" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Thx for the quick response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 More aluminum done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Made some shims for the side panels. The distance between the bends makes the sides bow, so I added 1/8" shims between the bottom lip and the floor panels. This pulls the sides tight and straight. It also draws the front edge nice and tight against the square tube. I also started on the dash and got it fitted. I just have to trim the outer edge. I can't say I miss playing with fiberglass. I can also finish the tunnel top now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanG Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 A fast moving project. Nice job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 I added a tab to the dash that will get sandwiched between the tunnel panels to hold it solid. The front panel piece will get a notch to match the tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Bringing back memories. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 I got my oil pan and the rest of the oil pan stuff today. Unfortunately the pan was damage. It looks like it went through hell getting to summit and then they put that box into my box which had no damage. So, now I will be waiting for them to order me another one. I was about to put the pickup tube and deflector on and I noticed that a couple of the drain slots weren't even punched out completely! I ground those out and filed them and got those installed. I also got my starter and starter bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Busy night. Even after dealing with the damaged pan and packing it back up, I still got some stuff done. I got my front tunnel top piece done and the dash all trimmed out. You can see how the tab is captured between the tunnel top panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 jevs, Looking at what toedrag is experiencing with his rear suspension (the toe rod fitment), have you started assembly on your rear suspension? Shane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 I will be this week. Maybe tommorow night if nothing comes up. Unless something is different about my frame or arms I suspect we may have the same issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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