Brunton StalkerXL #23 Build

[jevs]

I spent a little time on the car this weekend amongst other things I needed to do.

 

I got the front and rear shocks mounted. The drivers side lower bolt is a little too long and hits the steering rack, so I had to use 3 washers under the head instead of 1. Other than that, the shocks went in without any other issues.

 

I did a lot of trimming and clean up on the scuttle panel. The dash side flange was all over the place as far as how wide the lip was, so I spent some time making it nice and even. I had to measure the smallest part and make the rest match. I trimmed a good bit off. The firewall side is also pretty unevenly trimmed, but I just smoothed out the curves on that side. I did not want to take too much off or there won't be enough to screw to the aluminum firewall.

I also sanded down the inside of the front and back scuttle lips and tried to get the thickness of the flanges more uniform so they would sit against the dash and firewall better.

Other than that, I just set the hood up to see how it was going to fit before I attach the scuttle. The scuttle has to be pulled in a little on each side, so I wanted to make sure the hood would still be ok. I think it will be ok. As always though with these fiberglass parts, how much time you spend is how good of a fit and finish you get. They never fit perfect without some work.

The boxes in the picture are holding the hood down, or it is popped up a bit. I think just sitting that way for a bit or applying some heat will let it relax down.

Edited October 20, 2014 by jevs

[toedrag]

Looks good! And I see you got the hitch receiver mounted

 

On the upper control arms, why did you use the middle mounting hole of the frame bracket instead of the bottom hole?

[jevs]

Looks good! And I see you got the hitch receiver mounted

 

On the upper control arms, why did you use the middle mounting hole of the frame bracket instead of the bottom hole?

 

I just copied the way Brunton built the green XL. These are the holes they used.

[xcarguy]

Sure is great to see 'more' Stalkers being built on the forum. Looking awesome, jevs. Between you and toedrag, I feel like I'm watching an automotive version of biker buildoff. :smash:

[jevs]

Making the fire wall fit around the brake booster. Brunton just cuts a big notch to clear this. I am trying to keep my stuff a little tighter. This way if I wanted I could just use a little weather stripping and make the cockpit pretty sealed off from engine bay.

 

In order to make the brake booster easily removable, the bolt holes need to be ground out just a little at an up angle on the back side. This keeps the threads from getting scraped trying to get it in and out. The firewall panel has to be formed down between the booster and the steering so the booster can clear coming in and out. I just bent and hammered it, then sanded it out working from course to fine and ending with a scotch brite to get the marks and lumps out. It could be polished further at this point. I am not sure, but I may paint or powder coat mine so I don't have to deal with aluminum tarnish long term.

[jevs]

Unlike what I have seen others do, I left a little of the firewall panel to set on the top of the side panel top flange for a little support on the ends before putting the screws in through the scuttle panel. I also spent a lot of time carefully trimming. I notice some of the panels I have seen, the screws missed the panel and just made a notch in the edge. I wanted to ensure this did not happen. I also cleaned up the inside of the scuttle with a die grinder so I could keep as much metal behind it as possible.

 

I ground the end of the pins on my hinges and removed the pins. It appears my pins are 7mm instead of 5/16 as noted in the build video. There are a bunch of manufactures for this type of hinge, so it is luck of the draw. I will have to order some rod to make the pins. Honestly, I think these should be included in the kit since they are cheap and it would be easier and I think most people probably don't deviate on this part. I might order stainless steel.

 

Edit: I ordered this from McMaster to make the hinge pins:

1272T37 Multipurpose 304 Stainless Steel Rod, 7 mm Diameter, 1-1/2' Long $8.00

Edited October 27, 2014 by jevs

[jevs]

I think my hood fits a little better than that lump toedrag had to deal with. I left my hood stored in a way that was applying pressure up. Mine is now popped up just a bit, but with a little pressure it goes down pretty good. Once I get things more in place I will give it a little heat and let it relax a bit.

 

The front is going to need a little persuasion. As you can see it is a little crooked with the frame, but I think I can get that out once it is mounted.

 

The clearance between the top front frame corners and the hood looks like it is going to be acceptable.

[jevs]

The parts where the body lines of the hood meet the lines of the scuttle will need a little work depending on how good I want it to look. I notice a lot of people just kinda leave it as is. Most people would not notice I suppose, but unfortunately I am picky.

 

I have not gapped or mounted the hood or anything, this was just a preliminary test fit to get an idea of how it was going to go.

 

Fiberglass is never perfect on kit cars, this is pretty good so far overall. I have definitely started with way worse on other things

[toedrag]

Looking really good, jevs!

[Twerd68]

Indeed, great work and attention to the details.

[jevs]

Did a bunch of sanding on the cowl trying to get a good lip.

I got my rubber bumpers installed.

The lip on these XL cowls is smaller than the old ones, so the small bumpers barely have enough room. They might show through the hood gap. This is disappointing, but not much you can do about it.

 

By the way, the ideal hole size for these was 9/32 for me. Any smaller and they are way to hard to get in. 9/32 lets them poke in with a small tool pretty easy. They also hold very well.

 

I spent a bunch of time trying to get the hood to fit well after this. It is better than when I started, but still not good enough. I spent a couple hours with a heat gun and got it better, but the middle is still popped up and the rounded corners are in too far.

[jevs]

I am going to have to grind out the cowl where the indent corners are. As you can see there is not much room there and does not match the outside lines. The hood rubs and does not allow it to go in there.

[Mondo]

Paint the car black and no one will notice (but you)

[jevs]

I am actually considering black. I already have the paint that I bought for another car and did not use.

[jevs]

Another day down on the hood. I think I made good progress though.

I got it somewhat close and had to do a trim. The gap was too big on the passenger top corner to do much else. I trimmed all but that spot down, so this was as little as possible to trim off.

At this point the rest of the pictures show where the hood wanted to be in its relaxed state. Not good.

Edited November 3, 2014 by jevs

[jevs]

I made up a "jig" using my level and two tie down straps. I measured across the car and sucked the front of the hood in the same distance. I then went a little bit further so it could spring back some.

I heated the inside and outside of the radius on each side down the length of the hood. I then heated the back lip and clamped to the level on one side and a double stack of paint sticks on the top. I heated and added clamps before it could cool and then heated the whole area after the clamps where on.

 

This did a lot of good. The next time I took it off I camped one more spot and got a hump out.

 

There will be some fill and block sanding in my future. The reinforcement inside the hood is keeping things from going where I want. I pulled the lip where it needs to be anyway. There will be hump to sand out I am sure. There is plenty of beef in that area to shave some off though.

 

I also ground out and sanded a bunch where those corners come in at the body lines. There is a good bit of clearance now so that won't be an area knocking paint off. I will have to add a little glass on the back side of the passenger side. It got thin there. The drivers side will be ok. It is hard to tell from the pics, but I would say I took about an 1/8"+ out of there.

Edited November 3, 2014 by jevs

[jevs]

This is what it takes from the inside to get the outside close. There is a good bit of pressure on some of the sticks. I am going to have to either have to build up the cowl to match or build down the hood to match. This can't be left flopping around in the corners. Even if I make the bodywork match, there is just no support. The heat cycles of the motor and sunshine will let it shift around. It might stay close, but it won't be OEM looking. I am going to try to keep the gap under 3/16", 3 to 4mm would be my target, but it will likely open up a bit more by the time all is said and done.

[jevs]

So this is where I am at this point with the paint sticks jacking things up on the inside.

 

I have to get some hardware for the hood clamps tomorrow. I will put those on next before I do any more. I think it is close enough to do that now.

 

I do think I will order two more clamps to put up front. If you don't the body will never stay lined up with the frame rail. It really needs them in my opinion. Even if it was lined up good (which it won't be), the hood will be flopping in and out up there when your driving. Adding in the "hoods" over the suspension rocker link like Brunton does would help stiffen things up, but they did not put those on our hoods. I might do them. Haven't decided yet. It looks a little unfinished with just a cutout there.

[jevs]

Made pieces to weld on the frame so the bottom hood clamp holes have something to fasten into. These are much thicker than the frame wall thickness for more thread engagement. I am using a lock washer under the 8-32 x 1/2" stainless button head screws.

 

I made an aluminum piece for the front hood clamps. This way it holds the hood up the same as the rear. It also allows me the ability to add side panels later if I want without it affecting or needing to modify anything with the clamps or mounting. Just remove the aluminum spacer and insert the side panels in it's place.

[jevs]

More hood tweaking with the heat gun after getting the clamps installed. You have to get creative with stuff laying around to push it where you want I only have two hands.

 

It is getting closer.