Brunton Stalker XL #22 Build

[toedrag]

How difficult is it to spin your diff w the axles in? I don't remember trying without axles, but with everything in place, I was surprised how much force was needed to spin the axles by the driveshaft or vise versa.

 

I'm hoping it is just tight because it is a new unit...

 

I was surprised too at how tight it is; it took two hands on the lug bolts to get it to rotate.

[toedrag]

Been taking care of mostly small, miscellaneous catch-up type of items.

 

I finally figured out the riddle of the hood fitment. Using some clamps, heat gun, & IR temperature gun, I was able to adjust the vertical profile of the hood to match the scuttle. Here is a side view, nice & flush:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27250&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Coleman Racing sent me the correct steering shaft, so I was able to do a dry fit of the steering column. I deviated from the Stalker stock setup for manual steering, which is 2 smooth & hollow steering shafts & associated u-joints. For my steering system, the lower shaft is a telescoping DD from Borgeson, and the upper shaft is a hollow splined shaft from Coleman. I'll wait to trim the upper shaft until I get my seats situated. The steering puzzle pieces go together like this:

 

Coleman Rack (1 7/8" square) with 3/4-48 spline --> U-Joint (3/4-48 to 1" DD) --> Telescoping DD shaft --> U-joint (1" DD to 3/4-48) --> Upper Steering Shaft 3/4-48 --> Quick Release Hub adapter (Longacre 56605) --> Steering Wheel (Grant 762)

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27464&g2_serialNumber=3

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27230&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Made some adjustments to the rear caliper bracket & test fit the calipers. Stalker will be sending new caliper brackets.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27461&g2_serialNumber=3

[toedrag]

Re-worked the brake lines for a couple of reasons. First, I mangled the longest piece of tubing that Brunton supplies to use for the Fronts. Second, I decided to relocate the proportioning valve from the stock location in the tunnel to the firewall shelf, adjacent to the brake booster. Why? I don't expect to use the valve on a regular basis; it'll likely be a set it & forget it feature for me. Then, because I relocated the valve to the front, it meant that I could have one continuous piece of brake tubing going to the rear brakes, instead of the two pieces of tubing that come in the kit.

 

But, in order to re-do the brake lines, I had to become proficient at flaring new brake tubing. Here are the tools & failed attempts. There are 3 vitally important techniques here:

1. The cut must be perfectly square. If there are bends in the tube prior to the cut, the wheels of the tubing cutter will force the tubing cutter to make a skewed cut, which leads to a skewed flare.
    
   
2. The two halves of the metal clamp must be perfectly flush. One side always wants to sit higher/lower than the other. It takes a lot of patience to get them flush.
    
   
3. The wingnuts must be cinched down VERY tight. Use the metal rod/handle on the end of the flaring tool to tighten the wingnuts after they are hand tight. There are little cut-outs in the rod for this purpose.
    
   
4. The rest is easy. Sometimes, preparing to do the flaring in steps 1-3 could take 5-10 minutes, especially if I have to re-cut the tube due to it skewed center originally. Use brake fluid as lubricant on the business ends of the various pieces.
   

 

I had to use two different sets of flaring kits. My Harbor Freight tool on the right broke at the wingnut 'wing'. The Autozone loaner kit had stripped threads on the conical clamping bolt. It took about 15 tries to get things figured out.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27470&g2_serialNumber=3

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27472&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Comparing my flare on the left with a factory flare on the right from a braided brake hose. I'm also happy to say that, not once, did I forget to add the tube nut before flaring the line. I came close twice, but caught it before flaring:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27474&g2_serialNumber=3

 

 

Relocated proportioning valve:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27480&g2_serialNumber=3

[toedrag]

Given that the latest versions of Stalkers seem to be front brake biased even with the proportioning valve fully open, I decided to try another approach. In the stock setup, the rear brake tube to be connected to the middle port on the Master Cylinder (MC). On this MC, the middle port receives reduced brake pressure due to internal proportioning. I decided to plug the middle port of the MC and connect the front & rear to the full pressure ports on the MC. The unterminated tube at the top of this picture will connect to the 'Input' of the proportioning valve, through a Tee fitting which will also hold the Brake Light Switch. I'm waiting on the Tee fitting to arrive. The bend in this top tube looks odd, due to the photo's perspective; it actually bends around & behind the MC Reservoir, not up & over.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27482&g2_serialNumber=4

 

On the rear end of the car, I had to relocate the Tee fitting slightly from its normal location, due to my hitch receiver. FYI, the fuel tank sits at an angle and doesn't interfere with the 90 degree bend near the Tee. I am in the process of adding Adel clamps to secure the tubing:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27484&g2_serialNumber=4

Edited September 15, 2014 by toedrag

[coffee break]

Somewhere I remember hearing that copper will expand under heat and pressure, not to good for brake lines. Could someone fact check this?

[toedrag]

Somewhere I remember hearing that copper will expand under heat and pressure, not to good for brake lines. Could someone fact check this?

 

Correct, straight copper isn't a good choice for brake lines. This is a copper-nickel alloy, specifically designed for brake lines.

[toedrag]

Brunton really didn't like my configuration of the brake lines at the MC, shown a couple posts earlier, where the rear brake line terminates to the port adjacent to the port where the front line connects. I'll be putting it back to the 'normal' configuration where the rear line terminates at the middle port of the MC. It's an easy change since I just need to trim a couple inches off a ~9" length of tubing.

 

Received the 1/2" steel spacers for the toe rod bolt. They are a perfect fit.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27486&g2_serialNumber=2

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27488&g2_serialNumber=2

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27490&g2_serialNumber=2

[toedrag]

A few small jobs today:

 

Received more Adel clamps from Aircraft Spruce so that I can continue securing the brake tubing. 3/16" with the wedge shaped rubber is MS21919-WDG3 @ $0.36 ea. Although, for the last two clamps, I need to remove the differential to make room for the drill.

 

Hood Hinges: They are 5" T-hinges from the neighborhood HW store with 3/16 steel rod as a removable hinge pin. The hitch pin on the end to keep the rod in place, and the white nylon washers keep things aligned & quiet. This is the standard Stalker implementation, I believe:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27498&g2_serialNumber=3

 

 

Received the 1/8 NPT Tee fitting (Allstar 50138) that I'll use at the proportioning valve to connect the tube from the MC and to connect the brake fluid pressure switch, aka brake light switch. Sadly, I didn't check the male threads before test fitting it in the proportioning valve. The male threads were a little malformed. To clean up the threads on both the male fitting on the Tee and the female fitting on the proportioning valve, I used a 1/8 NPT tap & die. I realize I could have just sent the Tee package back to the retailer, but correcting it myself was just easier, plus the whole instant gratification thing...

 

Another useful factoid is that NPT fittings seem to be the same as IPT that you find at your neighborhood HW store in the plumbing section (just don't mix it with IPS, which uses straight, non-tapered threads). The downside with NPT vs other automotive fittings is that you need to use thread sealer.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27494&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Lastly, and I admit I'm feeling pretty clever about this one. As an engineer at heart, I have an intrinsic need to test things. So, naturally, I wanted to test the brake pressure switch (Ron Francis SW-32) before it's time to put fluid in the car (months from now). As I was rummaging around my toolkit checking for some NPT adapters, I saw my little blowgun nozzle. Wouldn't you know it, the tip of the blowgun is a 1/8 NPT female thread, which allowed the pressure switch to thread right into it!! :hurray: This switch should be active, shorting the two contacts, when the pressure is higher than 20-50 psi.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27496&g2_serialNumber=4

 

Edited September 19, 2014 by toedrag

[NVP66S]

Somewhere I remember hearing that copper will expand under heat and pressure, not to good for brake lines. Could someone fact check this?

 

If you decide to use stainless steel tubing, remember that it work-hardens like crazy. This means that you need to cut it with a hacksaw or bandsaw rather than use a cutoff tool. If you *do* use a cutoff tool, you can still flare it without cracking if you torch anneal it by taking it to cherry red and allowing it to air cool.

Dan

 

Nice build.

[toedrag]

Received the LS2 Oil pan this week. I'm waiting on a new oil pan baffle & crank scraper setup from Improved Racing (EGM-215). More details & pictures when it arrives. I'm also waiting on CBM-10820, which is a nice piece that goes on the oil cooler ports of the oil pan and has tapped holes for sensors. I'll take my oil temp reading from one of these ports, instead of the sump of the oil pan. Alternatively, I could tap the existing oil cooler port cover with 1/8 NPT as many others have done, but I prefer to keep the cover in tact in case I decide to do something different. GM also has 12551587, which is a cover that has an M12 x 1.5 hole for a sensor, same as the GM ECT sensor. Of course, if I end up doing an oil cooler later on, the oil cooler adapter will be installed over the ports in the pan, the temp sensor will connect to the oil cooler, and all the previous cover business is moot.

 

Next on the purchase planning list is engine & transmission. For the transmission, I know Brunton is working on a remote shifter setup for the T56 Magnum, but I'm also trying to find a backup source or two, which so far, is potentially Enjuku Racing & Sikky Manufacturing - have questions out to both to assess.

 

Finally finished the brake line plumbing and securing them with Adel clamps. All the lines have at least 1/4" of clearance to any potentially damaging edge or surface. The only open brake plumbing item is that I'm waiting on a 10mm x 1.0 plug for the MC.

 

Next on the install list will be brake & clutch pedals.

 

I played with a few different configurations of fittings for the proportioning valve, pressure switch, and hard line. I'm comfortable with how things ended up.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27504&g2_serialNumber=3

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27512&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Looking down the tunnel towards the rear of the car

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27514&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Up & over the differential and down to the Tee. This location is slightly different from the stock location, which I needed to do b/c of the hitch receiver.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27520&g2_serialNumber=3

[xcarguy]

Received the LS2 Oil pan this week. I'm waiting on a new oil pan baffle & crank scraper setup from Improved Racing (EGM-215). More details & pictures when it arrives. I'm also waiting on CBM-10820, which is a nice piece that goes on the oil cooler ports of the oil pan and has tapped holes for sensors. I'll take my oil temp reading from one of these ports, instead of the sump of the oil pan. Alternatively, I could tap the existing oil cooler port cover with 1/8 NPT as many others have done, but I prefer to keep the cover in tact in case I decide to do something different. GM also has 12551587, which is a cover that has an M12 x 1.5 hole for a sensor, same as the GM ECT sensor. Of course, if I end up doing an oil cooler later on, the oil cooler adapter will be installed over the ports in the pan, the temp sensor will connect to the oil cooler, and all the previous cover business is moot.

 

Hey, Brit,

 

The build is looking fantastic! And I do look forward to us ending up together at Cresson in the near future. You’ve probably already considered (in depth) all of the following, but just wanted to toss some more ‘food for thought’ on the table. I’ll bullet point for simplicity:

 

• Since you are going to track your car, are you planning on using an Accusump system? With the appropriate slicks, your car will easily exceed the G-force limit of an IR oil pan baffle (mine worked well up to about 1.2 G’s). In the following video (Cresson 1.7ccw) I had changed over to larger slicks (16’s vs. 15’s from the previous season) and was running the IR baffle and crank scraper with no Accusump . . . notice the 25psi oil light in the center of the dash. The data logger showed that I was pulling up to 1.5 G’s sustained in the turns.

 

 

 

 

During the previous season, I had no issues with low oil pressure. After my run in the above video, a follow-up phone call to IR confirmed my suspension that I had exceeded the limitations of the baffle (about 1.2 G’s sustained). The Accusump was then added . . . . no issues in July at NJMP (the only track day I've done since the install).

 

 

15” slicks: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22340

 

 

16” slicks: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25172

 

 

• You’re using CBM-10820 which bolts just above the oil filter. I had a similar (functionally) Lingenfelter unit (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23555) from which I was pulling the oil temp and oil pressure readings. I initially moved the oil temp sensor to the oil pan (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23639) for the sake of simplicity (easier to get to). Adding the Accusump later on required my changing from the Lingenfelter unit to Improved Racing’s EGM-116. (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25477).

 

 

• Did you purchase an actual LS2 oil pan (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-for-ls2-ls3-c6-corvette-12624617-p-92.html?gclid=CLuB9uX78ACFahj7AodomkApg&utm_campaign=googleproductsearchusen&utm_medium=product_search&utm_source=googleproductsearchusen) or maybe an LS1 F-body pan with removable baffle (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-for-ls1-camaro-firebird-body-12628771-p-70.html?gclid=CPq1s6A8MACFQQQ7AodFzcAtg&utm_campaign=googleproductsearchusen&utm_medium=product_search&utm_source=googleproductsearchusen)or other? The reason I asked is that the LS2 pan already has a built-in (non-removable) baffle and you said you are waiting on an oil pan baffle and crank scraper form IR.

 

FWIW, here is a link to my baffle and crank scraper install. For crank clearance, I poositioned the crank scraper as far to the driver's side as possible:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23147

 

Depending on which pan you are using, your install may be identical to mine (F-body pan). If you are not using an F-body pan, I'd be very interested in learning what combination of parts (GM and IR) you are using for the install.

 

If I’ve rambled for no reason, please forgive me and simply write me off as a mad-hatted Storker owner who takes pride in his wall of shame (parts I’ll never use again / parts I’ve never used) being larger than most others. :jester:

 

BTW, I don’t see a reference on IR’s site for EGM-215; what part is that?

 

. . . . . :cheers:

[toedrag]

Hey, Brit,

 

The build is looking fantastic! And I do look forward to us ending up together at Cresson in the near future. You’ve probably already considered (in depth) all of the following, but just wanted to toss some more ‘food for thought’ on the table. I’ll bullet point for simplicity:

 

• Since you are going to track your car, are you planning on using an Accusump system? With the appropriate slicks, your car will easily exceed the G-force limit of an IR oil pan baffle (mine worked well up to about 1.2 G’s). In the following video (Cresson 1.7ccw) I had changed over to larger slicks (16’s vs. 15’s from the previous season) and was running the IR baffle and crank scraper with no Accusump . . . notice the 25psi oil light in the center of the dash. The data logger showed that I was pulling up to 1.5 G’s sustained in the turns.

 

 

 

 

During the previous season, I had no issues with low oil pressure. After my run in the above video, a follow-up phone call to IR confirmed my suspension that I had exceeded the limitations of the baffle (about 1.2 G’s sustained). The Accusump was then added . . . . no issues in July at NJMP (the only track day I've done since the install).

 

 

15” slicks: [/url]http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22340

 

 

16” slicks: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25172

 

 

Thx! The IR baffle should be sufficient up to somewhere around 1.2-1.4 G's, but IR is still doing final testing on the unit. Proto's are running in cars today and are doing well.

 

More than likely, I'll be under 1.2-1.4 G's for a while, and if/when I exceed that or start seeing oil pressure issues, I'll figure out a solution, either Accusump or scavenge-only dry sump. I'll keep the car on street tires for a long time - at least that's what I keep telling myself - and that should help limit the G's.

 

 

• You’re using CBM-10820 which bolts just above the oil filter. I had a similar (functionally) Lingenfelter unit (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23555) from which I was pulling the oil temp and oil pressure readings. I initially moved the oil temp sensor to the oil pan (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23639) for the sake of simplicity (easier to get to). Adding the Accusump later on required my changing from the Lingenfelter unit to Improved Racing’s EGM-116. (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25477).

 

I wonder which has hotter oil, the pan sensor, or the at the oil cooler ports? It may not be enough difference to really matter, but I'm leaning toward the idea that oil near the edge of the pan will be a little cooler than oil at the bottom of the sump where the pickup tube is. Then again, the oil cooler ports measure filtered oil temperature, and maybe there would be some cooling effects between the pickup tube & oil cooler ports. Not sure...Like I said, it may not matter where it ends up...

 

I might test both simultaneously to compare.

 

• Did you purchase an actual LS2 oil pan (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-for-ls2-ls3-c6-corvette-12624617-p-92.html?gclid=CLuB9uX78ACFahj7AodomkApg&utm_campaign=googleproductsearchusen&utm_medium=product_search&utm_source=googleproductsearchusen) or maybe an LS1 F-body pan with removable baffle (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-for-ls1-camaro-firebird-body-12628771-p-70.html?gclid=CPq1s6A8MACFQQQ7AodFzcAtg&utm_campaign=googleproductsearchusen&utm_medium=product_search&utm_source=googleproductsearchusen)or other? The reason I asked is that the LS2 pan already has a built-in (non-removable) baffle and you said you are waiting on an oil pan baffle and crank scraper form IR.

 

FWIW, here is a link to my baffle and crank scraper install. For crank clearance, I poositioned the crank scraper as far to the driver's side as possible:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23147

 

Depending on which pan you are using, your install may be identical to mine (F-body pan). If you are not using an F-body pan, I'd be very interested in learning what combination of parts (GM and IR) you are using for the install.

 

If I’ve rambled for no reason, please forgive me and simply write me off as a mad-hatted Storker owner who takes pride in his wall of shame (parts I’ll never use again / parts I’ve never used) being larger than most others. :jester:

 

BTW, I don’t see a reference on IR’s site for EGM-215; what part is that?

 

. . . . . :cheers:

 

No worries at all. Forums need verbose dialogue; it keeps away the riff-raff.

 

The pan I have is 12624617, which is the lowest profile pan that GM makes *I think*. I think it's generally referred to as the LS2 or Corvette LS3 pan, and you're correct about the internal baffling. The guys at IR are creative :cooldude:. What they did is create a combo baffle & crank scraper system that bolts to the block, instead of the pan like the rest of their baffles. They originally were trying a weld-in kit for the pan, but ended up with this much more palatable bolt-in version. It's brand spankin' new and not yet on the website, but it will likely be launched very soon. You can order it over the phone now if you want. Once I receive it, hopefully Wed next week, I'll take a bunch of pictures. Although, since I don't yet an engine, it'll be standalone pictures, and once I have the engine, I'll take more pictures of course.

[xcarguy]

The pan I have is 12624617, which is the lowest profile pan that GM makes *I think*. I think it's generally referred to as the LS2 or Corvette LS3 pan, and you're correct about the internal baffling. The guys at IR are creative :cooldude:. What they did is create a combo baffle & crank scraper system that bolts to the block, instead of the pan like the rest of their baffles. They originally were trying a weld-in kit for the pan, but ended up with this much more palatable bolt-in version. It's brand spankin' new and not yet on the website, but it will likely be launched very soon. You can order it over the phone now if you want. Once I receive it, hopefully Wed next week, I'll take a bunch of pictures. Although, since I don't yet an engine, it'll be standalone pictures, and once I have the engine, I'll take more pictures of course.

 

Now it all makes sense. :blush: And yes, you do have the lowest profile LS pan. Very interested to see what IR has worked out . . . . . looking forward to the photos. :cheers:

[subtlez28]

I'm wondering about the same issue. I'm going in reverse order. Track 1st, road later. My hope is that I am not pulling enough Gs for long enough to run dry on my shorter tracks (~1.8-2 mile).

 

My oil pressure gauge is not giving me warning so far, but it is a CAN-BUS, not mechanical. I did that for simplicity, but am now questioning the logic... I worry that it just doesn't react fast enough to drop when the actual pressure does.

 

I have the LS3 Corvette pan. I wish I had an IR baffle when I put the motor together! I actually have a couple F-body ones on my never used shelf. My understand is also that the LS3 vette pan is lower profile and better braffled from the factory.

 

I looked into the scavenge only dry sump. I like that idea best, but I'm not sure I have the physical space to mount the pump. Maybe backward like the alt...

 

I have an accusump set up also on my shelf from my F-body days. I am hesitant to use it due to it's complexity and potential draw backs. But if I am starving the engine for oil, it may be a necessary evil.

 

Just a couple more events this season. I have much to sort out this winter!

[toedrag]

I'm wondering about the same issue. I'm going in reverse order. Track 1st, road later. My hope is that I am not pulling enough Gs for long enough to run dry on my shorter tracks (~1.8-2 mile).

 

My oil pressure gauge is not giving me warning so far, but it is a CAN-BUS, not mechanical. I did that for simplicity, but am now questioning the logic... I worry that it just doesn't react fast enough to drop when the actual pressure does.

 

I have the LS3 Corvette pan. I wish I had an IR baffle when I put the motor together! I actually have a couple F-body ones on my never used shelf. My understand is also that the LS3 vette pan is lower profile and better braffled from the factory.

 

I looked into the scavenge only dry sump. I like that idea best, but I'm not sure I have the physical space to mount the pump. Maybe backward like the alt...

 

I have an accusump set up also on my shelf from my F-body days. I am hesitant to use it due to it's complexity and potential draw backs. But if I am starving the engine for oil, it may be a necessary evil.

 

Just a couple more events this season. I have much to sort out this winter!

 

You could add an oil pressure switch and connect it to a buzzer, light, or shock collar system?

 

The IR baffle, theoretically, should be easy to add in the Stalker. When I added one of their baffles on my last car, most of the battle was getting the darn oil pan off due to all the other stuff in the way. Had to move AC lines, slide the steering rack forward, lift the engine up a few inches, etc...In the Stalker, it should be much easier to remove the pan b/c it should just drop straight down without any drama (easy for me to say without an engine on hand).

[subtlez28]

I like the shock collar idea!

 

Glen said he set up a low pressure switch to a horn when he was shaking his car down and had no issues.

 

I think I will go with that IR baffle id I keep the LS3 pan. But, if space and packaging allow, I really would rather go scavenge only dry sump.

[toedrag]

Been prepping for pedal installation. Part of that required deciding on the mounting position of the clutch master cylinder. I had planned to do a remote mounting of the Wilwood reservoir, and when I mentioned this to Brunton Auto, I received a warning: when mounted remotely, the Wilwood reservoirs always leak, but when mounted directly to the MC, it's leak free. Further interwebs research confirmed Brunton's warning.

 

Armed with this info, and not to be deterred, I did the following, applying some lessons from household plumbing troubleshooting --> soapy water spray bottle.

 

Per Wilwood's instructions, I baked the pertinent pieces at 125F for ~10 min, making sure they are hot to the touch:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27524&g2_serialNumber=4

 

Next, I used some Sil-Glyde brake lube on the o-rings for both the MC & the remote mount base. After the baking was complete, I assembled things quickly, including attaching the clamps around the mating pieces and clamping them tightly. I waited until the next day to mess with the assemblies any more.

 

That next day, I set up my jig to do some pressure testing of the remote mount setup. This involves some air fittings and a piece of scrap plastic to keep air from escaping out of the vent hole in the Wilwood lid. In retrospect, the pressure gauge wasn't really needed (although, I may use this setup again to pressure test the fuel tank, radiator, and other systems). FYI, I didn't feel the need to use clamps on the rubber hose. It leaked there a tiny bit, but not enough to impact the experiment.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27530&g2_serialNumber=4

 

Once the reservoir was pressurized to 20 psi, I sprayed soapy water on the joint where the reservoir & remote mount base meet. Bubbles indicate that air is leaking out. Bigger bubbles = bigger leak:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27526&g2_serialNumber=4

 

The presence of leaks being confirmed, I tried a few different orientations of the clamp, but what seemed to work the best is to ensure that the bottom ring of the clamp is very close to the rubber o-ring (fuzzy black line inside the assembly). It seemed like if the bottom ring was too low, no amount of tightening would stop the leaks. You'll have to take my word for it that in the following picture, the reservoir is still pressurized to 20 psi. I also didn't overtighten the clamp at any point; I tightened it with a wrench, using a light grip, until I felt a noticeable change in resistance.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27528&g2_serialNumber=4

 

 

 

Usually, I'm reluctant to declare success, but it seems pretty promising here, especially since the vented lid is active at low pressure, like 5 psi. So, I'll continue with my remote mounting idea, placing the reservoir adjacent to the brake booster. This should allow the clutch pedal to slide a little further away from the brake pedal and allows a little more convenient access to the reservoir from above.

[NVP66S]

I like how you go about doing things. Keep up the good work. :cheers:

Dan

[toedrag]

Been a good few days working through pedal installation.

 

1/2" aluminum spacers under the pedals. Raising the pedals is a standard practice for Brunton so that the lower bolt holding the clutch MC is more accessible. Threading the pedal mount with 3/8-24 tapped threads is also a common Brunton practice so that you don't need access on both sides of the floor panel to remove the pedals. Nice touch. I chose to also tap the clutch MC with 3/8-24 for the same reason. The aluminum spacers are 3/8" ID x 1 3/8" OD, 1/2" tall - seemingly made for this application, Speedway Motors p/n 715BM4011, and is on a garage sale right now at $10 for 4 of them

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27544&g2_serialNumber=2

 

Here's the driver side footwell with a 1 3/4" hole cut on the lower right for the boot of the clutch MC. I lined it with common edge trim from the local parts store. It's a perfect fit around the largest part of the boot of the clutch MC. But, if the MC is pushed too far into the cockpit, there will no longer be a good seal. Next, you'll see where I used 2 stacked spacers to keep the MC positioned properly.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27538&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Close up showing the two stacked washers. I ended up cutting part of washers so that they didn't protrude too far into the hole.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27554&g2_serialNumber=6

 

Almost done. A few last touches to go. I have actually clamped the clutch hose at the barbs and have one adel/p-clamp holding the hose, but those aren't pictured. It's worth noting that the brake pedal pushrod is mounted ~4 inches above horizontal on the vertical brake lever; this was per Brunton's recommendation for cars with 6-piston front brakes.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27547&g2_serialNumber=3

 

I'm waiting on:

• A boot/grommet for the brake pedal pushrod
  
• In an attempt to quiet the Wilwood pedal at the pivot point, I need to find some washers that are 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD x 1/64" (0.015") or 1/32" (0.030") thick. Hopefully, Wilwood will see my nice email and just drop some in the mail for me. I found some Aircraft Spruce ones that may work if Wilwood doesn't come through.
  

 

I also had a big pedal milestone today that I had been somewhat dreading, which was mounting the bracket for the throttle linkage on the firewall shelf. I had been pretty nervous about choosing the correct position of the throttle pedal, but I think I have something that will work well for heel/toe. I lost count of how many times I climbed into the floorless cockpit to awkwardly try to do a heel/toe action, visualizing where the throttle pedal needed to be.

[toedrag]

Oh, and this goody was delivered today:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27556&g2_serialNumber=2

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27560&g2_serialNumber=3

 

More pictures to come after I bring home a hoist & stand, hopefully on Sat.