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Battery cut switch or not?


jevs

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Should I install a battery cutoff switch? If so, where should I put it (Stalker XL Classic)? What type should it be?

 

Or, should I just wait until I think I am going to do something that requires it?

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Some people are so into keeping the car as light as possible that they go to weight-saving measures like manual wipers to get through the annual safety inspection and counting on Rain-X for the unexpected shower.

 

Many of us have tires that are not optimized for the wet, or even carry the top.

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I put mine on the right side dash so my passenger can switch it. Normally they are mounted on the pax side scuttle, rear panel (drag style), or on a plate riveted or clamped to the roll cage just aft the main hoop (70's style). I believe SCCA needs switch to be marked with standard marker and accessible by corner worker.

 

If you drive often it's probably best to keep it "on" and use a tender if you're going to be parked a week or more. The GM computer, like most, resets when disconnected for 30 minutes or if you press the brakes after disconnect to clear any charge in system. After an hard "off" car takes a little bit to warm up relearn stuff, get throttle off idle right, and throttle sensitivity, and throttle-off backfires, whereas if I leave on and drive regularly, it's just awesome, like I left it, with no learn period.

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I put mine on the right side dash so my passenger can switch it. Normally they are mounted on the pax side scuttle, rear panel (drag style), or on a plate riveted or clamped to the roll cage just aft the main hoop (70's style). I believe SCCA needs switch to be marked with standard marker and accessible by corner worker.

 

If you drive often it's probably best to keep it "on" and use a tender if you're going to be parked a week or more. The GM computer, like most, resets when disconnected for 30 minutes or if you press the brakes after disconnect to clear any charge in system. After an hard "off" car takes a little bit to warm up relearn stuff, get throttle off idle right, and throttle sensitivity, and throttle-off backfires, whereas if I leave on and drive regularly, it's just awesome, like I left it, with no learn period.

 

Could you leave only the GM ECU on battery power, and have the cut-off switch disable power to everywhere else? That's probably not SCCA/NASA compliant, though...

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Should I install a battery cutoff switch? If so, where should I put it (Stalker XL Classic)? What type should it be?

 

Or, should I just wait until I think I am going to do something that requires it?

 

I have two battery cutoffs on my car. One is inside the cockpit and within reach of me. This switch removes power to everything except the ECU. The other switch is located on the car's exterior with the location placarded. This switch cuts power to everything, ECU included.

 

Internal switch: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25309

 

 

External switch: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23547

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My battery will be in front of the scuttle on the passenger side.

 

Would it be acceptable to have the cut switch on the dash with a sticker on the front passenger side cage tube? This could be easily reached by corner worker and driver, but it is not on the outside.

 

If so, could it be anywhere in that yellow square, or would it have to be more towards the right side?

Battery cut location.jpg

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My battery will be in front of the scuttle on the passenger side.

 

Would it be acceptable to have the cut switch on the dash with a sticker on the front passenger side cage tube? This could be easily reached by corner worker and driver, but it is not on the outside.

 

If so, could it be anywhere in that yellow square, or would it have to be more towards the right side?

 

jevs,

 

With regard to on-track driving, I’m a big fan of having a cutoff switch located somewhere on the exterior of the car so someone else (corner worker?) can get to it (relatively easy) for those ’just in case’ moments. I chose to locate the external cutoff up high on the rear of my Storker and directly beneath the roll bar down tube. On track (off track :ack: ), the location is easily visible and (hopefully) one area of the car that's least likely to end up in an accident; that was the kiss of death. :jester: Even if the car were to end up on its side or upside-down , the cutoff will more than likely still be exposed and accessible . . . . . just a thought. However, having said that, nothing is really fool proof. :willy_nilly:

 

Also, for an external cutoff, I'd reccommend installing a switch that does not use a removable flag key such as this one:

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74101/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710737726&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848284&cadevice=c&gclid=CP3n0-mMucACFWho7AodjFMAOQ

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That is the style I am looking at. I have found a few options so far.

 

I don't really want to put mine in the back. No real reason to run battery cables all the way back there on my car....

 

I found some nice 4 pole ones (without removable switch), but it really rests on the dash vs. exterior to decide.

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Depends on what you want it for, if it is for racing then it has to be accessible for shut off in case of an accident, as others have mentioned already.

In my case I don't race mine so I have a removable double sided key on the console for security/theft, shuts off everything that goes through the main 50amp fuse.

 

Al

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I want my switch to pass tech for racing in case I ever want to. However, I also want it to be in a nice location that is suitable for street use if possible. Mine will kill everything and I do not want it removable and it will not be shutoff typically. I am doing something else for the ignition/theft prevention.

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I want my switch to pass tech for racing in case I ever want to. However, I also want it to be in a nice location that is suitable for street use if possible. Mine will kill everything and I do not want it removable and it will not be shutoff typically. I am doing something else for the ignition/theft prevention.

 

jevs,

 

 

I'd go with 11Bulite's Caterham location suggestion; that'd keep it external, close to the battery and handy.

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Is it supposed to be reachable by the driver? In that pic it is, but I don't drive from that side? :) My battery is on that side though with no reason to route it to the drivers side.

 

That could also make removing the scuttle more challenging or have to unscrew the switch and risk damaging the paint each time. Passenger side dash would be ideal, but I don't know if that would pass tech. Scott says it will for NASA, but not sure about others. SCCA would be important.

Edited by jevs
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Is it supposed to be reachable by the driver? In that pic it is, but I don't drive from that side? :) My battery is on that side though with no reason to route it to the drivers side.

 

Not sure if the cutoff needs to be reachable by the driver. On my Birkin, the cutoff switch was located on the side of the scuttle (driver's side).

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The Caterham kit we install locates the switch outside the vehicle, but within reach of the driver. It includes a metal guard, and the switch has provisions for dumping reverse EMF through a power resistor, avoiding damage to sensitive electronics when you turn the switch to "OFF" while everything is energized.

 

For the Caterham Seven that is not driven on a weekly basis, the switch is mandatory to avoid reduced battery lifespan.

 

The disconnect kit can be easily retrofitted to any application, and we generally keep one on the shelf.

 

-Bruce

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SCCA rules require switch be easily accessible from outside the car and be properly labeled with their decal so a corner worker can easily shut down the car. It is also required to be within the reach of a fully harnessed driver so he or she can also shut down the power. I think you'll find NASA and other run groups have similar rules. NHRA requires the switch be installed at the rear of the car since the front and or sides are usually trashed during a catastrophic event, and driver input is rarely possible or needed.

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