subtlez28

You know X. I have an accusump system in the garage from my previous project. I was holding off on installing it just to avoid clutter and complication. Now I think I have changed my mind. I'm not going to be able to mount my accumulator the same way as my shelf is crowded with air filter now. I may need to give up the passenger foot well for battery and Accusump...

Based on my brief initial search, looks like $1,800 will get you a pretty good system that may fit a Stalker. Not sure where the oil tank will go... http://aviaid.com/pdfs/115-complete_listing_of_wet_sump_and_dry_sump_oil_systems_for_ls1_through_ls6_chevrolet_engines.pdf Maybe out in front of the car old gasser style?

This is a scary topic for me. When I raced my 02 Z28 I specifically stuck to street tire classes to avoid a G-load that would starve the LS1 of oil. Now I have a more capable car, with Hoosier slicks... And a brand new LS engine... That I would really rather not scatter. I will be looking forward to your install, and considering the same. I wish I had the cash and expertise to go dry sump.

Thanks X! I use Photobucket image links. It is just text while editing, then magically becomes a pic when you post.

In other news, I received my Diamond Racing wheels. Steel 15x10s with a spun rim. I went this route based on budget. I want to get the car to the track soon. The wheels are of great quality! Obviously steel is a bit heavy, but custom aluminum can come later. The wheels are 21 pounds a piece, the Hoosier 23x9.5x15 Road Race Radials are around 19 pounds. So figure about 40 pounds per corner. Bear in mind this was measured using a bathroom scale, so it could be off a bit. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/5ED4F179-4C13-4192-9E38-C468A5180725_zpskwv9ticm.jpg The sun is coming through the window behind the car, but here is pic of the wheels on the car: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4BC2407A-8FF0-4DA2-B282-5F7B7E871C39_zpspoqkjnmz.jpg Another catch to using steel wheels is the lack of stand off from the wheel flange surface. Diamond racing told me this would be an issue, so it was no surprise. The problem is my brake set up is stock 10" Miata rotors with beefy Wilwood 4 pot calipers. So the caliper protrudes outward of the hub face, and since the rotor is so small, it is to near the center to allow the steel wheels gradual angle away to clear. No worries though. Nothing a spacer (15mm) and longer wheel studs cannot solve.

I mentioned before about some trial and error on the driveshaft. My original stance was to use adaptors on both ends to keep the factory 3 bolt flanges on the CTS differential, and the CTS-V T-56. I figured we could use a driveshaft with a splined section in the middle to take up any movement and ease installation. I had just that kind of driveshaft on my last Jeep Rubicon project. Well, after some lessons learned, we went with my original idea. Here is the adaptor made for the T-56 flange: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4ED13F71-81F5-496E-843F-BE4FE5DA44FF_zps4owx8eic.jpg Here is the shaft: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/2E7DEB93-E357-43C3-B5A0-FEA475BACA36_zpslyiuwhdp.jpg I asked for some input on running the intake. I liked the direct and literally straight forward (or backward in this case) route. I figured flow would be good, packaging would be clean, and dry air would be assured if the filter was on the cabin side of the cowl shelf. However, a friend pointed out that it may cause me issue with some racing sanctioning bodies as it more or less defeats the idea of a firewall. Firstly I don't want to risk missing an event due to tech. Secondly the idea of a potential back-fire through the intake emitting fire directly into the cabin seems less than ideal. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/5F36385A-80EE-45DC-9E89-998C4E97BB73_zpsujdtbpru.jpg

I dig it!

Not to alarm you, but a friend of mine was watching the video with me and he noticed the red light on your dash. Please, tell me that is not an oil pressure warning light!

Now you have me looking at Traqmates... It'll have to wait until next year... Like the light custom wheels I am also jealous of!

Any weights yet? I have my steel Diamonds and 23" Hoosiers weighed... I'm curious on the comparison.

You kick out the doors or windshield action movie style!

Good to see! Kind of off topic, but how does he put his trailer on its end like that along the garage wall? Great space saver! I wish I had higher garage ceilings!

Those are sweet X! I'll take mine in black powder coat please... When is your birthday? I'll send you a bathroom scale so we won't have to wait on wheel weights...

I pulled the trigger on track wheels and tires this week (its that time of year I guess). I decided on 23x9.5x15 Hoosier Road Race Slick Radials. I am a 20 minute drive from Berget Racing Tires, so going used made sense. The ones I got are at about 80%. Thanks SCCA run off participants! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/89443D9A-5CEA-4B60-B3D3-6848C1396254_zpsseaamogp.jpg I ordered a set of 15x10 Diamond Racing Wheels. Much heavier than I would like, but I got the whole set for less than a pair of custom aluminum wheels. I figure I need to get the car on track (and almost on budget) this year. I can upgrade to lighter wheels next year.

I am very jealous! I am also looking forward to pics of them mounted and on your car! 12" wide in back, awesome! Why no pics of the faces? And here is hoping you weighed them by now! I pulled the trigger on track wheels and tires this week also (its that time of year I guess). I decided on 23x9.5x15 Hoosier Road Race Slick Radials. I am a 20 minute drive from Berget Racing Tires, so going used made sense. The ones I got are at about 80%. Thanks SCCA run off participants! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/89443D9A-5CEA-4B60-B3D3-6848C1396254_zpsseaamogp.jpg I ordered a set of 15x10 Diamond Racing Wheels. Much heavier than I would like, but I got the whole set for less than a pair of custom aluminum wheels. I figure I need to get the car on track (and almost on budget) this year. I can upgrade next year.

Ha, thats what I was thinking. Electric motors do have tons of torque...

Outstanding! That is what I wanted to hear! Thanks for the photo Xcar.

Thanks Tom. I considered the intake noise, I'm ok with that. It is unlikely this car will see a full top. But if it does I should never need to vacuum the interior, right?

We've made some progress on the build. The slip yoke idea didn't work out for the CTS-V T-56, so that meant a new output shaft needed to be put in. Upgraded a couple things while they had it open, and found the unit to be in great condition. That is the silver lining. The trans was the only used part in the drive line so its nice to know all is well with it. I found a T-56 specialist a couple hours north of me. I decided to hand deliver the trans to avoid any risk of damage in shipping. Since I was making the trip I also brought along a F-body T-56 I scored on Craigslist. I got such a deal on it I assumed it was messed up. However, more good news there. It was good inside, and so I upgraded it with steel 3-4 shift forks, pads and billet keys. Now I have a fresh T-56 for the next project (maybe my DD 2012 Colorado w the 5.3). http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/DF44E943-1746-468B-AFE4-663F5F0D50BF_zpszz53crde.jpg We worked on the rear suspension to get a the alignment close, and the settings right to get the shock travel where I wanted it. I purchased a few sets of suspension push rods to play around with length. I found out a big mail order circle track suspension place is like 20 minutes from me (Lefthander Chassis), so that made getting the parts easy. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/2BABDD19-7611-4A4E-B99A-F645641896CA_zpslil0idvq.jpg We bled the brakes, and clutch hydraulics. It is starting to feel like a real car! I ponied up for some pretty parts. I really did not like the factory brackets for the coils. I guess it was to speed up production but on the early LS1s (97-98) the coils mounted directly to the valve covers, which were perimeter bolt. When they went center bolt they went to brackets. Anyway, I picked up some black Holley valve covers that have the bosses to mount the coils direct. I really like how they look. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/5E0225E1-CE08-4CEC-9F8F-8FC91259CA9E_zpsyhi0sci9.jpg Next I need to set up the DBW throttle pedal and the air intake. My plan is for the intake to go right back through the scuttle and be in the interior between the shelf and dash. I figure this will be direct, and shield it from debris, water and heat. I don't see a lot of guys doing this so I am up for any advice on why this isn't common.

Great minds tend to think alike! My toy before the 7 project was a 900XP. Crazy fast off road! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/RZR%20900%20XP/IMG_0260.jpg But, my automotive ADD has me moving on.

Both very interesting cars!

This video popped up on my Youtube feed after the posted one. It is a little more USA than 7, but similarities are there. And I figured this group would appreciate it for the simplicity and history:

I just jumped in to post that very video. But again, beaten to the punch. Question is, does our own Xcarguy from Arkansas have a british accent and youtube channel (Xcarfilms)?

I must be a member of this cult. When I last raced my 02 Z28 in 09 I ran the then new RA1s. They were worth a second or better on a 1.8 mile road course over the already impressive Falkens I was running (I won the street tire championship with both). Only thing is tire tech has been moving fast. I could not promise this is still on top of the game.

I was just talking w Glen about this build. Very cool! You cannot have to much traction. That CTS limited slip is going to get a work out!