Kitcat

Sale pending for both racks.

These aluminum pellets are intended to keep the gas in your tank from sloshing around at the track. The box pictured was enough to fill my 21 gallon tank. Cost new was $500. I will sell in two parts for $100 each part, plus shipping. Or I can deliver to NJMP for the USA7S event in September.

See photos. This is very nice and has been only used a few times. Comes with stakes as well as corner pole weights to hold it in place. Cost $100. Local and nearby delivery only. Or can take to the NJMP event in September?

I meant to add this photo:

See photos. These are bigger than the stock fenders on my S3. They are a little beat up but restorable. Cost: $50 each, plus shipping. I can deliver to the annual Se7ens event in September as well.

Yes. He and I have discussed it but it wasn’t going to work for him. BTW: The power numbers were with stock ECU and stock SVT intake system.

I have four 15x6&1/2 stock Caterham wheels for sale. In excellent condition. Two have well used Kuhmo track tires that provided excellent grip when last used, 3 years ago. The other tire is shot. Cost $600 for all of them plus shipping. Shipping costs have gone way up, so happy to deliver to the USA7S event in September, or drop off along the way, if convenient for me.

As indicated here before, I have a spare long block SVT engine that I am ready to sell. Price is $1500, plus shipping, and sale is “as is” (no guarantees/warranty). See attached photos. The top end was rebuilt recently. When it was in the car it made 161 hp, 143 lbs torque on a chassis dyno. I’d add a new oil pump if I was going to use it but otherwise it’s good to go. As you may know, the SVT is very different than the standard Zetec and falls about half way between that engine and the Duratec, powerwise. Its parts are not interchangeable with the stock version so this is really its own species of engine. It was only made a few years and is far less common than the standard Zetec. Shipping won’t be cheap. I can deliver it to the Se7ens event at NJMP in September, or drop it off along the way, if not too inconvenient. I would also consider driving it 400 miles in any one direction from Cincinnati, if that helps. Maybe the buyer could also drive as well and meet me for an exchange? It weighs about 250 lbs but is pretty compact.

I have two Caterham steering racks for sale. Both seem to be 1&3/4 turns, rack to rack (so the 22% version???). One is new and the other looks new, but not 100% sure. One has the longer tie rods for the wide track Caterham, one is missing a tie rod and the existing rod is 2” shorter than the widetrack version. Caterham UK lists these as $711 plus shipping. I will sell the one that is complete for $300 + shipping and the other for $250. As is, no guarantees. I am going to the annual se7ens event at NJMP and can deliver in person there.

I had a similar problem on my ‘97 X-flow powered Caterham. It was so intermittent it was impossible to find. But it only happened on start up, never while under way. So we started replacing everything we could think of. Never solved it. Then the starter went bad. In looking at it my mechanic found a loose ground wire: intermittent starting problem solved.

I won’t be there, but it looks like a blast! Hope to see some pix?

A se7en that ventured onto the curbing at that corner at our 2018 event and paid the price. Great car, great driver. It was our only real wreck in all the se7ens events

Time will tell Tom. I will be happy if I can remember not to go off everywhere I have gone off there in the past:)! Which, as you know, is a lot to remember!

You mean that in a good way, right Tom😬? Anyhow, I have (sadly) gotten older and slowed up. In fact, I am sneaking out of the nursing home for this event!

Or, more likely, holding you up every where except the last 100 yards of the straight:).

C7, I think the real value of the Accusump is in those moments on track under heavy G-forces, when oil starvation occurs. The ability to pressurize the engine before start up is a bonus but, given that virtually no other engines start with pressure, yet survive nicely, I think you can safely skip the steps requiring you to wait 20-30” on startup. At least I do.

Checklist? I used white paint and spelled the word “Oil” on the flat center of my steering wheel, as a friendly reminder:). My currently electric valve system dumps oil into the engine as soon as the ignition is switched on, and before I hit the starter. I have an engine oil pressure guage and can watch it go from 0 to 7-25lbs, depending on its mood, apparently. Once the pressure guage on the Accusump tank drops and I register positive oil pressure in the engine, I start it up. It soon pumps the extra 2 quarts back into the Accusump tank and the tank goes from 0 lbs back to 60-70. In long sweepers, like the bowl on Lightening at NJMP, I can look over and see the Accusump guage drop, as it repressurizes the engine. Things that can go wrong. A loose elec connection can stop it from working, the wrong level pressure regulator causes it to mis function and to add oil when none is needed. Overpressurizing the tank will cause the blow off valve to open and pump 2 quarts of oil into the car, overfilling the oil pan will cause the engine to pump oil out the breather vent in the engine bay, drenching your pants with oil and making the pedals slippery or, at least, that’s what I have heard…. Quantity is 2 quarts + the normal amount. Depends on how much the oil cooler, the oil lines, and the oil filter hold along with the oil pan. On my Caterham, it’s 3-3&1/2 quarts + the 2 in the Accusump. Be sure rev it to approximately 3K, for 30” to refill the Accusump, before measuring engine oil level with the dipstick.

I started with the manual. 100% reliable- when I remembered to turn it off and on:). On the advice of my mechanic, I switched to electric and it’s mostly reliable. I’d choose manual if I was starting over.

Tire Rack swears it is critical. Of course they charge $15, per tire, to heat cycle new tires, so? I have always done it to be safe. But, like you, I ended up needing to skip that step once and saw no adverse results.

My last event? Will decide there, but my current plan is to use the event to decide whether to sell the car, likely on BAT. Maybe even sell it there? I will start a separate thread on this as we get closer.

I have signed up, see everyone there.

Again, I have a perfectly good spare SVT block/head gathering dust. Happy to offer it at steep discount to clear out my basement. PM me Vlad, if tempted. It underwent the top end rebuild that you are contemplating and logged maybe 500-1000 miles since being pulled. I’d replace the oil pump to be safe, that’s it.

The only part of this latest update that I understand is: “gonna lose a whole year”. I don’t understand why using a fire resistant fuel tank is such a massive technological step or why it requires re-engineering so much. I don’t doubt it, just don’t get it. Also, given what a massive upgrade it apparently is, I don’t get why Caterham didn’t double check this with you first: they knew it could be a huge issue, you had no idea. Hopefully someone here will have a suggestion to speed things up?

A couple of more shots: Top silver cylinder is a small feeder pump that sends fuel to the surge tank. The bottom shot of the larger cylinder is tge surge tank itself, which has a large pump inside, and a check valve out side, the 2nd shot of a black cylinder is a 100 micron fuel filter that compliments the factory filter. The fuel regulator is in the engine bay. And contrary to my earlier report, I don’t have a swirl tank, the surge tank solved the fuel starvation issue. All of which is to explain why I never attempt mechanical repairs myself (and should avoid offering mechanical descriptions of my Caterham:)).

I will take a pic of the filter tomorrow. It’s just past the fuel pump. I also have a swirl tank. Engine kept sputtering at 1/4 tank, so added that while we were at it.