Kitcat

Time will tell Tom. I will be happy if I can remember not to go off everywhere I have gone off there in the past:)! Which, as you know, is a lot to remember!

You mean that in a good way, right Tom😬? Anyhow, I have (sadly) gotten older and slowed up. In fact, I am sneaking out of the nursing home for this event!

Or, more likely, holding you up every where except the last 100 yards of the straight:).

C7, I think the real value of the Accusump is in those moments on track under heavy G-forces, when oil starvation occurs. The ability to pressurize the engine before start up is a bonus but, given that virtually no other engines start with pressure, yet survive nicely, I think you can safely skip the steps requiring you to wait 20-30” on startup. At least I do.

Checklist? I used white paint and spelled the word “Oil” on the flat center of my steering wheel, as a friendly reminder:). My currently electric valve system dumps oil into the engine as soon as the ignition is switched on, and before I hit the starter. I have an engine oil pressure guage and can watch it go from 0 to 7-25lbs, depending on its mood, apparently. Once the pressure guage on the Accusump tank drops and I register positive oil pressure in the engine, I start it up. It soon pumps the extra 2 quarts back into the Accusump tank and the tank goes from 0 lbs back to 60-70. In long sweepers, like the bowl on Lightening at NJMP, I can look over and see the Accusump guage drop, as it repressurizes the engine. Things that can go wrong. A loose elec connection can stop it from working, the wrong level pressure regulator causes it to mis function and to add oil when none is needed. Overpressurizing the tank will cause the blow off valve to open and pump 2 quarts of oil into the car, overfilling the oil pan will cause the engine to pump oil out the breather vent in the engine bay, drenching your pants with oil and making the pedals slippery or, at least, that’s what I have heard…. Quantity is 2 quarts + the normal amount. Depends on how much the oil cooler, the oil lines, and the oil filter hold along with the oil pan. On my Caterham, it’s 3-3&1/2 quarts + the 2 in the Accusump. Be sure rev it to approximately 3K, for 30” to refill the Accusump, before measuring engine oil level with the dipstick.

I started with the manual. 100% reliable- when I remembered to turn it off and on:). On the advice of my mechanic, I switched to electric and it’s mostly reliable. I’d choose manual if I was starting over.

Tire Rack swears it is critical. Of course they charge $15, per tire, to heat cycle new tires, so? I have always done it to be safe. But, like you, I ended up needing to skip that step once and saw no adverse results.

My last event? Will decide there, but my current plan is to use the event to decide whether to sell the car, likely on BAT. Maybe even sell it there? I will start a separate thread on this as we get closer.

I have signed up, see everyone there.

Again, I have a perfectly good spare SVT block/head gathering dust. Happy to offer it at steep discount to clear out my basement. PM me Vlad, if tempted. It underwent the top end rebuild that you are contemplating and logged maybe 500-1000 miles since being pulled. I’d replace the oil pump to be safe, that’s it.

The only part of this latest update that I understand is: “gonna lose a whole year”. I don’t understand why using a fire resistant fuel tank is such a massive technological step or why it requires re-engineering so much. I don’t doubt it, just don’t get it. Also, given what a massive upgrade it apparently is, I don’t get why Caterham didn’t double check this with you first: they knew it could be a huge issue, you had no idea. Hopefully someone here will have a suggestion to speed things up?

A couple of more shots: Top silver cylinder is a small feeder pump that sends fuel to the surge tank. The bottom shot of the larger cylinder is tge surge tank itself, which has a large pump inside, and a check valve out side, the 2nd shot of a black cylinder is a 100 micron fuel filter that compliments the factory filter. The fuel regulator is in the engine bay. And contrary to my earlier report, I don’t have a swirl tank, the surge tank solved the fuel starvation issue. All of which is to explain why I never attempt mechanical repairs myself (and should avoid offering mechanical descriptions of my Caterham:)).

I will take a pic of the filter tomorrow. It’s just past the fuel pump. I also have a swirl tank. Engine kept sputtering at 1/4 tank, so added that while we were at it.

Here are a couple of shots of my fuel cell setup. Not sure it helps. It is a return system. All built by my mechanic, I have no info on the details or setup. The fuelline hose that runs up along the rollover bar is the overflow line, not pressured. Tom Carlin runs these thru the hollow bar, which is much more elegant/tidy, on his Birkins. There is a catch can by the drivers’ side rear suspension. The red switch on the rear bulkhead is a separate off/on for the pump.

Great decision Skip! Let’s see a picture or 2 once you get your car. And a review. You have been very patient, hope it lives up to your expectations.

The lights location has no effect on cooling. Here are some more pics of other quirks/mods that the car came with. In addition to the 21 gallon fuel tank, for endurance racing. The third photo shows 2 hooks on the passenger side of the roll cage. I use one to hold the steering wheel, the other to hold my helmet. Surprisingly helpful. The bottom photo is an off/on switch for the fuel pump. Helpful when starting a flooded engine. The 4th photo is a dash shot. I have a combo oil temp/ water temp guage. The oil temp shows the oil takes at least 5’ more to warm up, after the water temp says the engine is fully warmed. Also in that shot, at the top, is a rev guage/shift guage ( a bunch of green LEDs, then 2 reds). When the reds both light up and then flash, it’s time to shift. I totally rely on this guage on track and ignore the rev counter. The 4th picture is a custom jacking point. Very helpful in a 24 hour race, otherwise irrelevant, tho I do use it to change tires. The top picture most importantly shows the tiny low fuel guage between the 2 large circular gauges on the far left. This has save me from running out of fuel inumerable times. It starts to blink when fuel is really low. Nothing is more embarrassing than pulling off due to low fuel, and having your entire run group flagged into the paddock, while you are retrieved (I suppose…..). The red pull lever triggers the fire suppression system. So far it has not been needed. It also vaguely shows an A/F ratio guage. Helpful as a level of protection when doing chassis dyno pulls. All in the for-what-it’s worth category.

Thx John, the pics are better right side up:).

I have attached pics of my Cat’s low profile lights, rivets filling holes where clams once existed, and long-delayed shot of my driver’s seat, looking at it from the passenger side. FWIW. I tried to fix the upside down pics, without success….. AFAIK, all work, including the cage, was done by Bruce Beachman at his Caterham/race shop in Washington state. He is a member here and a font of information. He may have the exact roll cage measurements? If not, I am happy to send more pics of it.

OK Croc, points to you for best post of the month.

At least you weren’t in the “parking lot” due to your own driving stupidity. And you didn’t eventually drive out if it bouncing off the mamouth rocks NJMP thoughtfully left there, so you didn’t return to the pits with 2 flat front tires and 2 bent front wheels. Thx for that memory Croc(:. But back to the present (TG), why did your transmission lock/explode? Is it the Cat 6sp? Any warning signs before disaster struck? As I mentioned in a post a while back, the seals on the 6 sp need to be replaced semi-regularly.

Any theories on the relatively low torque # and the big drop off? My two stock Zetec SVT’s managed low to mid 140’s in torque, on a supposedly conservative Dyno. We each have 2 liter engines. On the positive side, your torque number is a nice fat/flat shape, all thru the RPm range.

You are right Croc, a trip down memory lane, via this Forum’s search function, shows Stewart had some initial low oil pressure issues, followed by some oil leak issues, all resolved, some during BlueBDA’s current ownership.

As I (very) vaguely recall, this car has had some overheating issues since the the BDA transplant for the original X-Flow??? Still one of my favorite looking Caterhams (if not all-time favorite). I am sure you will get this sorted.

I can likely make the August 9-12 event.

I am scheduled to move it from storage later today and will take some additional pics then.