NSXguy

From the first photo in the post- 38/21

Geez fellas ... there's a time and there's a place for banter. This is neither!! Forum etiquette...

-As title states, I am offering for sale, 5- 14x6" panasport wheels (1 was the spare). 4 are mounted on Falken tires and the spare is mounted on older yokohama tires that are aged out. The falkens have roughly 1500 miles and 2 outings on track. Wheels are in great shape and tires Plently of life left on them. -These wheels are for the earlier 7's with the ital/marina pcd; will also fit triumphs. - Prefer not to deal with shipping if possible. Some older photos of the wheels mounted-

Awesome, she looks soo good. ARI did the heavy lift, now you get to do the fine tuning! I would recommend you have a wideband o2 sensor bung added to your exhaust after your merge collector. This will help with the next step of optimizing AFRs. (you can do it other ways, but this is my personal preference even if just to use during tuning) 1-Based on your engine spec, if you wanted improved idle performance and driveability at low loads, you can choke down at the expense of performance at higher loads but i agree with above that 28mm is too small and likely causing overly rich running condition (depending on current jetting, especially when cruising). Mine is close to 1700cc and i run with 32mm chokes (have run as high as 34mm on track) but also have aggressive cams- its a balancing act with carbs. I would expect ARI set the floats to spec for DCOE 151s which are the carbs you have. Having the floats set differently will also affect your final jetting and performance as well. Based on what i see in the photos, the 4-1 exhaust and short trumpets on the DCOEs, the engine is likely setup to breathe and perform up top, so you'll want at least 32 if you want it to perform as designed, but it will also run choked down to 30s as already mentioned with the appropriate jetting. 2-Based on your engine spec, your timing may need to be tweaked as well (so it's nice that you already have the 123 ignition module installed). Even if your engine was standard spec, you can optimize the advance curve for better performance. Curious, di you get the bluetooth or the USB version of the dizzy? i have the bluetooth version for the 7 and find it really convenient for tweaking on the fly as opposed to the USB version i haven in the renault. You can post your current settings and jets (idle, mains/air corr. , accel pump, mixture turns, ignition, fuel pressure etc) and we can help/advise from there as you get on with the tuning or message me offline if your like.

I ran Falken RT615K+ on my 7. 195/60/14. fit fine with cycle fenders and performed well on street and a few track days. no issues with ground clearance. The RT660+ also come in same size.

Thanks for sharing!! Thoroughly enjoyed the analysis and reporting!

My 7️⃣’s current stable mates. The Lancia is apart for a refresh at the moment.

interesting choice to go with a Lima on this build. Thankfully there's still a decent amount of aftermarket support for the platform. What are you using for engine management. If going stand alone engine management, then you could do away with the dizzy all together and run wasted spark.

For someone with general mechanical but limited automotive aptitude referenceing a good wiring diagram is probably the better way to QC as a hedge against these types of electrical gremlins during the build. For others possessing solid automotive understanding and trouble shooting skills, You'd scope out the trigger signals and verify that patterns look good. Cranking with the timing light would also tell if you have trigger/sync issues to correct prior to first start( Sync/trigger issues are by far the biggest culprit leading to no start on modern or older project/build cars) . Typically on a modern standalone engine management(i realize that may not be the case here), the issue could be solved without even needing to depin and repin the Crank sensor. often times you can select a different sensor edge in the software from falling or rising triggering depending on how it is pinned as seen in the scope trace. In either scenario, when/after assembling a 7 and before initial start, "pre flight" checks should be done to confirm readiness: -Check fuel pump primes with key on engine off (confirm check injector solenoid actuation as well, easier with aftermarket ecu) -Check TPS sweep and actuation/calibration and adjust if necessary -check crank position functionality (scope, check timing with timing light; if on engine management, adjust arming thresholds) -Check oil level and prime engine to build oil pressure before start (many ways to do this. easiest- removing spark plugs to lower load on starter)

negative- they fit good; no rubbing

Yes “big tooth” gears will be noisier than standard gears but less noisier than straight cut gears. It’s the trade-off for the increased torque “handling” capacity. No free lunches as the saying goes... oems use helical gears(and lots of them) to give quietest, smoothest gear engagement for your normal road driving but at an expense. A bigger tooth (and fewer) is an upgrade for spirited or Motorsport, with its own noise compromise. Then straight cut for pure Motorsports/ ultimate performance but then you get all the noise. so in short, what you are experiencing is normal. You will typically hear the gears more at idle and low load.

that's a beautiful ride. You'll enjoy it!

The Toyos are a good enough alternate while waiting for the novas (if that’s the ultimate desire). Even caterham (the company) have offered them on new cars since Avon supply dried up.

That’s awesome and I agree on track is one of the best ways to experience the full potential of a 7. I know it’s a hike, but hope you can join us at NjMP next year, dude.

sent Josh a message- he’s usually pretty responsive.