NSXguy

negative- they fit good; no rubbing

Yes “big tooth” gears will be noisier than standard gears but less noisier than straight cut gears. It’s the trade-off for the increased torque “handling” capacity. No free lunches as the saying goes... oems use helical gears(and lots of them) to give quietest, smoothest gear engagement for your normal road driving but at an expense. A bigger tooth (and fewer) is an upgrade for spirited or Motorsport, with its own noise compromise. Then straight cut for pure Motorsports/ ultimate performance but then you get all the noise. so in short, what you are experiencing is normal. You will typically hear the gears more at idle and low load.

that's a beautiful ride. You'll enjoy it!

The Toyos are a good enough alternate while waiting for the novas (if that’s the ultimate desire). Even caterham (the company) have offered them on new cars since Avon supply dried up.

That’s awesome and I agree on track is one of the best ways to experience the full potential of a 7. I know it’s a hike, but hope you can join us at NjMP next year, dude.

sent Josh a message- he’s usually pretty responsive.

Correct- have shared similar observation before that it wasn’t a coincidence that many period lotus and caterham 7s have this typical blue pull-style slave cylinder installation/conversion. The web is littered with exhibits. Now we have proof in documentation of the bulletin. Thanks for sharing . Most of those installs would be pushing 40yrs in service and should be considered to be past useful life and in need of replacement.

there’s really no need to “upgrade” the cooling system especially for a mostly road driven 7; unless you just want to, of course. It works well in current configuration even in a track situation- I can attest . For your cooling system baseline I would say: -replace the thermostat -new gasket on the housing -new cap (I believe 13lbs) -new 50/50 mix ford green coolant, -the overflow hose to the overflow tank - if overflow tank holds, no need to replace unless for aesthetics -probably won’t hurt to flush the rad (and heater heatexchanger) while everything is off -water pump is fairly inexpensive; would throw a new one in as well (while you’re in there) -make sure you put enough coolant and bleed system thoroughly should provide lots of trouble free miles and smiles, at least for the coolant side. I have a more comprehensive checklist for a “new to owner” analog car baseline process.

I’ve never carried a spare, did away with the carrier and associated weight pretty much soon after getting the car. Personal preference/risk appetite; but the amount and type of miles driven never warranted. I’m currently on 13” minilites on Toyos for street/track. Before that I ran my (now) spare set of 14” panasports on falken rt615k (195/60)- they were good street tires wet or dry… I thought the fell off pretty quickly on track though.

for your visual interest… Sharing some photos from when I did a closed system. I have since removed as I wanted to declutter the engine bay and simplify. Either system (open or closed) works well if properly installed. as MV8 mentioned, Tee off the heater hose circuit or if no heater then just connect to the water pump neck (reference the photo with the arrow ) and route the line (larger ID) to the bottom of the expansion tank. Smaller ID hose will go from nipple on existing thermostat housing to small nipple on expansion tank you’ll want to cap off the existing thermostat housing with a non pressure rad cap and then use a ~13lb rated cap at the expansion tank. some expansion tanks have a purge/air bleed nipple as well.

Not a short list i admit, but... -Fuel swirl pot (major considering would be where to place the fuel swirl pot (in the rear or reluctantly but more convenient in the engine bay) -low pressure lift pump -high pressure fuel pump -fuel filter -high pressure rated fuel lines supply and return (thankfully i already ran hard lines when i refreshed my 7) -fuel pressure regulator -Fuel injectors Ignition (distributorless wasted spark or modify spare dizzys for cam signal to do sequential spark and fuel) - Crank trigger kit (either DIY or order online) - Ford VR crank sensor - Ford coilpacks Air intake -DCOE style induction units with TPS (although i've considered a custom plenum and single TB... will try not to get carried away) -Throttle cable mounting (unless DBW is utilitized, then just wiring to TPS and PPS) Hardware & wiring -New wiring harness, fuses, relays and sensors (IAT, water, TPS, 2x map if doing plenum with TMF) -Related - Driveline considerations; Gearbox is rebuilt so should be good and clutch is newer so should handle load just fine -other bits and bobs, misc hardware to make everything fit. Engine management - Multiple options(lots inexpensive or even good second hand), but will likely wire to accept emtron SL4 as thats what i have running the cossie and it's a solid package( probably overkill but i already have the ecu) If i do a plenum and single throttle body, i can then set it up for DBW with emtron's proprietory TMF air flow modelling strategy (which i'm using on the cossie) for oem level performance such as cold start/idle/part throttle driveability as well as increased flexibility on torque modeling/delivery... again depends on how carried away i want to get. ITBs would probably be the quickest solution to launch with and then next winter if i wanted to play around with plenum/DBW, can do that. Plan would be to keep power and loading in a way that doesn't overwhelm the standard rear end. I would think a reliable 150/160 is feasible on a 16XX the race spec Xflow.

I don't have any problems with my Dcoes and efi conversion is not difficult for me other than allocating the time. I will happily buy the bits from the overwhelmed fellow to potentially save some costs :-)

No solid plans, but i may get tempted to efi the old trusty xflow before spring time... We'll see.

Thanks and looking forward to it. Date saved.

I'm very luck to have an older neighbor who appears to "keep watch" overnight for any and everything that happens in the vicinity. But i do have Harbor freight locks on the trailer wheels as an added layer.. for the one day he's off his game and dozes off lol