NSXguy

Sign me up! Looking forward to any year of track time in the 7️⃣ thanks @Croc 🫡🤝

The reason, as you have discovered is that the electrode went bad(try to find out why!) and by the photos something caused the center electrode to slide out from within the insulator tip and contact the side electrode. This will undoubtedly cause a misfire(no fire) condition as no gap for the spark and therefore no combustion in cylinder 4 which explains why the plug is black and sutty, the engine was shaking due to imbalanced harmonics and all that unburned fuel being introduced and igniting in the exhaust, thereby causing the loud pops and bangs you heard. I think your setup warrants further investigation to rule out positively the root cause of the issue. Assuming you don’t have an eye on afrs while running, how do the other plugs look? What are jets and carb setting(venturis, idles, emulsions, mains, float heights etc), ignition timing at WOT? With the 4speed boxes on early cats unwell he cruising sometimes on the main circuit at highway speeds so if ignition and afrs are off as the condition is held for prolonged periods something may give. You may not see that otherwise just driving around town or during momentary periods of WOT blasts. just some things to consider. -Dez

Signed up for Saturday. I haven't signed up yet for Friday but 90% sure i will make it.

The orientation was already established earlier in this thread. You’d only have had to compare the photo of the pump they sent you with the image I shared to see that their response was incorrect. These pumps (and all related variants) are not getting reinvented so the orientation has been the same since the early days.

Thats mint! Plans for it?

By the way, attached is a picture of an integral filter on a FF type racer for reference. -Dez

The mount you have is to be used on a Kent with 4/5 port dry sump pump (i prefer 5 port for ease) and remote oil filter housing. The intergral filter dry sump pumps don't work with the Kent in a 7 based care due to how the engine is supported as the filter is typically oriented such that it points towards the rear (gearbox); thereby fouling on the engine mount. However, they can (and often are) used on FF racers or similar along with the other vintage cam/timing cover mounted dry sump pumps. Hope that helps. Dez.

Must be the one Adam recently imported. Nice car and congrats! I’m in CT

that bung seems like it'll sit the sensor element way too high.. hope it's not an optical illusion.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZYNNBH2/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A1E2MGYDTPEYH7&psc=1 I've been thinking about ordering this one to play around with and see what would need doing to fit on the xflow. The architecture, mounting and specs looks promising enough... at worst, may need some modding, but shouldn't be too bad.

Anyone got one of these kicking about they fancy selling. i'm after one to modify for my dry sump conversion as Caterham doesn't stock these. Thanks Des.

my very early cat s3 came with a .70 brake master (lockheed AP). the clutch master is 5/8.

Can’t wait!

are you guys running open throttle bodies which will require Alpha N or a plenum with a map sensor which will require Speed density? Your hardware config will drive a different tuning strategy for each scenario.

They all do essentially the same thing . Maybe a slight difference in fidelity of data, features and what is included in the package. I have no recent experience with those two but both are reputable companies, so you should be fine with whichever you prefer. As long as it is not a narrowband sensor. I suspect they will all be using lsu 4.9 sensor elements or newer which is the way to go.