TurboWood

Here is the latest pic. I still need to solve the light wiring, front cycle wings, and center console. The next big task is the engine and wiring....

Why did you register the car in Tx?

Gents, I hit a roadblock that seems simple, but I'm stuck. The front headlight/turn signal wiring doesn't appear to match the connectors I was given. Can anyone tell me what is wrong with this picture? In other news the car is coming together nicely. I got a little help from Jon in Denver (Cat USA) with some of the cosmetic items. I'm now nearly to the point of needing the engine. I was able to buy a dummy engine block for $75 and a brand new head for $100. Once I get the bell housing I should be able to bolt it all together and see if it will even fit in the car.:smash: Daniel

I'm in the process of assembling a Caterham now. I would say my wrenching experience goes a little beyond changing oil, but for the most part the things I've done have consisted of removing a bolt, changing something, and re-installing said bolt. The most significant was removing a cylinder head which did require removing the engine/transmission for the car (93 5-series BMW). I give you that perspective so you can try to gauge my responses. Also keep in mind that I'm a 7-newb. There are other people on this site which could definitely give you more experienced advice. 1) Mine has 15". As a road car this would be my suggestion. You may want to see what tire options exist in 13, 14, and 15". Most Cat's come with Avon tires which you probably won't use after the first set goes bald. So, make sure you can find something you like in the US. 2) For the street I don't see much purpose in 5-point, but if that's what you want then go for it. 3) I can't say, but you can always change it later. Either way I wouldn't buy it from Caterham. The up-charge is equivalent (or more) to just buying the diff separately and doing the swap. You probably won't be able to sell the standard diff you pull out for much, but I think you'll still be ahead. This also gives you more flexibility on the type of diff (Quaife, Titan, etc.). 4) I would say not important. I would be shocked if 1% of the street 7's had this. It is for racing, but if you feel safer with it then go for it. 5) As mentioned by Taber this can be an anti-theft device. I'm using the quick release steering wheel for this purpose and skipped the battery switch. This is primarily for racing (required by some racing series). I'm using a rapfix quick release which is also a little nicer than the splined quick release from Caterham. There are a few UK companies that distribute them. 6) The front suspension arms have an airfoil shape instead of round. It's like polishing a brick. The 7 is still going to be very aerodynamically poor. I would skip it unless you really like the look (they do look kinda cool and it does go in the spirit of having a purpose built race car for the street). 7) I suspect you will find this to be a bit of a rabbit hole. My short version is: 6th gear on the Cat6 is 1:1, this means no overdrive and very close ratio gearing (2.69, 2.01, 1.59, 1.32, 1.13, 1:1). It is also expensive. I'm planning on using an upgraded 5-spd from SPC in the UK (http://www.spcomponents.co.uk/index.html). You may also want to check out BGH (http://www.bghgeartech.co.uk/). The main thing you want (in my opinion) is the long first gear. The 5-spd originally came with a tall 1st which isn't needed on a 7. If you search the internet I think you will find a fair bit of discussion on this topic. With a 2+L engine 5-spd is enough. The other thing to pay attention to is the final drive ratio (diff). I believe 3.62 is the most common. I have 3.38 and there are a few 3.15's around. I can't comment from experience, but you may want to get other people's perspective on this. I'm pleased with the 3.38 decision based on all the searching I've done. 8) I haven't gotten to the engine install point myself, but being in kit form would probably make it easier because you could do it before all the other bits were installed (more room). You will need a cherry picker, but I don't anticipate engine installation as a big challenge (much easier than a normal car). There are other steps in the assembly process which are more tricky than this for sure. 9) This is up to you. I chose a kit, but I am getting some help from Caterham to assemble some of the cosmetic parts which I'm not confident in getting right the first time. As an example you need to install the snaps into the trunk cover. Ideally you should buy a proper tool (instead of the very simple/cheap/painful thing that is provided in the kit). I was also worried about getting the tension even. Similar challenges exist for the weather equipment. The fenders also require some drilling. From the research I did the Caterham is supposed to be one of the better kits out there, but it's far from a lego kit that is fool proof. If you live close to someone that can help then you might give serious consideration to a kit. If getting support will be an expensive en devour if you get stuck then the roller may be the right option. 10) Can't comment. I like paint. Good luck and welcome (hopefully!) to the group. Daniel

I would venture to say that the residual value is low because they are expensive to repair. You see this with most expensive vehicles that lack a cult following.

I'm bringing this back to life in case there are any new opinions. Has anyone used the Quaife for considerable track time? Has anyone failed one? Has anyone here driven a CSR with open diff and Quaife? Daniel

In my limited experience I think I would opt for an S2000 if getting a convertable sports car was the target. They have held their value very well and the interiors tend to wear very well. If I were stuck on a Porsche I would try to find my way into a Caymen instead. Mind you I've never owned a Boxter (only driven one) and a few of my friends have S2000 (I've autocrossed both). Daniel

Amazing work in a short time. It reminds me how slow I am... Daniel

I think I found the pictures of a turbo 7 you may have been thinking of. http://passionford.com/forum/restorations-rebuilds-and-projects/138813-st170-turbo-engine-rebuild-cgi-thinking-of-selling-up-8.html Go to page 8. Daniel

I definitely look forward to seeing this come together. I've gone down the path of using the GM 2L Ecotec turbo because I felt it was easier. Have you found a dry sump pan and bell housing that will work? For the GM I was able to find a bell housing that is "close" and am having a machine shop do the necessary modifications. Ford Racing told me the ecoboost used a different sump and bell housing than the duratec which makes getting everything bolted together tricky. The reason I asked about the transmission is most street cars have a relatively tall 1st gear for what you need in a caterham. The Miata 5-spd is one of the longer ones at 3.163, but it's still quite a bit shorter than what you see in most transmissions used in a Caterham (~2.4-2.7). I am just a bench racer at this moment so take my comments for what they are worth. If you have found the way forward with this engine I would consider changing my path... Daniel

Graham, Are you going to use a duratec or ecoboost? The ecoboost has VVT which will have a very positive influence on the TQ curve. What transmission will you use? Daniel

Here is the pic I have (not my car). Daniel

Chris, I believe you need to loosen the upper clamp in order to get enough play in the lower shaft. This will allow the lower shaft to slide up through the clamp and upper shaft. This shouldn't prevent you from aligning the steering wheel. Daniel

I've read elsewhere that the final 6spd was not made by BGH and that maybe there remains some friction there. Daniel

I look forward to seeing some wheelies!

Wow with some more wow sauce please. All the other 7's will be jealous. Daniel

Looks great!

I hate to say it, but that doesn't look like enough tire. You won't be able to make a noticeable change in the earth's rotational speed without a little more. Very nice! Daniel

This was my impression as well. Could Caterham have simply bought the Superformance sales pitch? "We have a distributor network, larger network of known buyers, proven sales volume on kit cars/rollers, and ...." Coming from the side of an automotive supplier one key issue I see with Caterham sales in the US is the sourcing strategy. If you look at the pricing of most production cars you'll find that a $20k car in the US is approximately 20k british pounds in the UK and about 20k euros in the EU. This isn't the case for Caterham since most of the parts are sourced in and around the UK. For them a 40k pound car is about $67k here. The exchange rate alone has gone up 10% in the last year. They still advertise the CSR for 45k pounds in the UK. If we could get a finished CSR here for $45k it would be very competitive. Daniel

Yikes, $75k for a 480 is supposed to be a discounted price?

I wonder if we are just seeing a normal cycle. I realize as one of the younger members here that this may be a dangerouse statement, but surely an earlier generation thought the same about a 30's Ford. What are they worth these days? Of course I may be all wet since nobody will crave cars from the 80's with maybe a GNX being the only exception. Daniel

Let's not forget the inflation will continue. Even if the value of a classic car declines, it is possible for the price to increase. Daniel

Sweet!

I guess Caterham is hoping the marketing was the main reason for poor sales. There certainly are a lot of rich people out there, but the pricing did get crazy.

Come-on that was so long ago. Who can remember past yesterday's lunch? :boxing: I hope the pricing is msrp only and that the real price you pay is somewhat reduced. You can see that the special launch drivetrain prices are hugely lower than the retail prices. 310hp supercharged with seq 6spd: Launch: $14,500 Retail: $38,350! With that retail price the 620R becomes ~$110k! Daniel