WestTexasS2K

7evin is using HKS. I'm using Hondata on my new motor. I used AEM before on my first supercharged car I didn't like the open loop system. I wanted a closed loop system. I know AEM offers it now. I can check my old lap top and see if I still have those files on it. I just might.

Thanks RNR It shows exactly what can happen. I have pics of my braces somewhere just can't seem to locate them on my computer. John can get the idea from yours.

I dont have the AEM maps anymore. It was based on a forced induction car too so it may be different than what you are needing.

Your car will have the R160 mine and 7evin are the only ones with R180 units. We are the only ones running higher horsepower cars as far as I know. Diffs have the tendency to tear the sheet metal that hold the front of the diff up on the front. The rocking back and forth overtime will just fatigue that U shape brace that the diff is mounted in. The factory Subaru cars had a 3 foot arm across that front portion of that U brace. That obviously will not work on our cars. So my solution is to put a wider brace on the back of the U shaped support and tie into the chassis behind the seats. This really helps eliminate the rocking motion and prevents the nose from breaking. I ran out of material to finish the diff support tonight Ill have to pick up more on Tues.

John i think the 4:11 with 13" will be great combo . As long as you stay with the R160 they are dimensionally the same from the eighties till today. The R180 is wider in the diff section but will bolt into the car. It requires different axles too the STI axles have a bigger shaft and are a little shorter. There are fewer gear choices for the R180. I recommend some sort of diff brace to reduce torsional twist. I'm finishing one today Ill post a pic so you can get an idea of how I have done them. I think it will clear your inboard brakes.

A seven wont go a 191 mph either.

Ap1 Trans in 6th has a drive ratio of .081 Ap2 Trans in 6th has a ratio of .0763 Measure your tire height and the. Plug the numbers into an online gears calculator. Example .081 gear 4:44 diff 25.5 in tire should be 3317 rpm. 26 inch tire is 3253.

Mondo the 3.90 isnt any stronger than the 4:11 units or 4:44 units. Its true we trashed a few diffs during 1 Lap with the supercharged engine and the R160 diff. We upgraded to the R180 diff from STI and have had no more problems with the diff. My personal preference for my cars with a stock NA motor is the 4:44. Now if I were going to go on a 2000 mile tour with a group and was going to be doing 70-75 for hours on end then I would swap to the 4:11 or 3:90. The motor could care less about the increased rpm but your ears will care. John It is true that Honda used the 4:10 stock form. Honda does make alot of compromises as well. Most aftermarket tuners will run 4:56 gears in the S2000 for improved perfromance. If you are going to use you car for any kind of DE events or Autox I would recommend the 4:44 if you are going to run the 17" tires. If you are going to run a 15 inch slick for these type of events a 4:11 will work ok because your final drive ratio will be lower because of the shorter tire. Now if your intended use for the car is mostly cruising driving up and down the highway 90 percent of the time with a few track days a year thrown in for fun then the 4:11 will be fine. Your math is correct on the gearing. The one thing those formulas dont account for is wind drag which is significant in a 7. When Chuck was clocked at 140 he was at Run and Gun. He was running a 13 in rim and tire. I would have to run the numbers but his gearing was way down there. I was running 17" street tires and I was clocked at 137 in the same stretch with 4:44 in my car.

John I have a few 4:11 on the shelf. One that is brand new from a WRX.

Hey Ducati I guess we hadn't meet. Good to know there is a WCM in Arizona. Hopefully you guys can meet up.

I had a guy call me several times on it. Is he the buyer?

Those are so cool. I think it would be a fun commuter.

I don't know of any Ultralites in Vegas.

Oops didn't see that. I guess if 35 psi works for him so be it.

I tested the tire rollover and can find no evidence of it. I even have several high resolution photos in some hard corners and the tire show no sign of roll over. I do run 1.5 camber. I also had the experience of a extreme harsh ride with the tires at 35 psi. I have run 5 different tires over the years and most required only 1-2 psi difference variation. I'm curious what size tire you were experiencing the snap oversteer. I'm running low profile 40 and 45 series in 17". If you we're running a 55-60 series on a 15" wheel I could see that it could roll over on you.

I'm sure John will join the discussion. On the steering wheel sound like its mounted under the dash bar. In this position which most are mounted there can put the wheel very low. My last car I mounted it above the bar I think this a much better position. You can easily get in and out with steering wheel on. It can require some adjusting of the pedal assy to fit it. I agree also that stock vtec point is a bit high for a light car. An Apexi piggyback tuner can be used to lower vtec to 5000 this makes the transition less abrupt. There are other systems that do the same thing. Apexi is the cheapest way to go on a stock motor. Fuel curve can be tweaked as well with it. You can gain 15-20hp with fuel tuning. Gearing is also very important. I'm not sure what gear he has in the car. I recommend 4:11 or my favorite 4:44. This will help beef up the weak bottom end torque curve of the f20c motor. Seating is usually very low. 3" from the floor. I have to sit on pillows to see over the dash myself. I'm not sure what seats are installed. Maybe John can fill in that info. If stock seats it just might be the way they are mounted that varies from my experience. Brakes can be improved with some compound changes. They really require some heat to start working. I usually drag my brakes for a few blocks to get heat in them this usually will improve brake grip very quickly. I found Wilwood recommendations didn't work for me. I used there friction data sheets and went from there.

Very nice, fantastic color.

I did the same as John. With the exception of I took a 12v compressor and cut the power tip off and put clips that I can clip on the battery. I use this in all my vehicles it's faster than mounting a spare.

I found this link on my 914 forum. It has some really cool car builds from forums such as ours from all over the world. The link is http://www.build-threads.com

I tried those apps but they just don't work as good as the original. I'll just have to get use to it.

I just updated my Ipad and old 4s I phone and the update has some needed changes, but it took my You Tube app off my phone and I-pad both. I use that App the most and its gone now. Anyone have a good reason for this. I sent Apple a note, I doubt they car much. I can still access thru the net but it was sure nice to just touch one button to get there.

Yes I used the wheel frequency to get it close and then will change rates up and down from there for fine tuning. I found tire pressures make a huge difference on my car. I can run it at 21-22 psi and it will under steer 18 psi it turns right in. If you run them at 35 psi you can hardly keep the car on the road. It will want to skip over every bump in the road. I have found driving on the highway it is going to be very difficult to creat heat in any kind of tire on a 7. Even on the track pushing really hard with street tires they are still 20 degrees under desired temp at the end of the session. I have used from 205 and 225 and didn't notice much difference. I used the tire temp with a tire probe across the tire to see if camber is within reason.

Originally Posted by Canadian 7 Yes a bigger turbo, and other things. My daily driver is a 2004 SRT-4. Motor is 2.4l turbo. They were 230 hp from factory - mine is now 360 hp at the wheels, so over 400 at the motor. Still drives like stock until the turbo spools up. Thats one advantage of a turbo over a built n/a motor. Erm.. I claim: Bullshit. I think his claims are very reasonable. I have several friends with SRT4s and they are making similiar power. Turbo, tuner and methanol injection will put you a little over 400 hp. Dodge Neon SRT-4 dyno: 413 hp 388 tq - YouTube There are pages and pages on you tube. Loren

I found this video that does a good job of discribing bump steer and how to measure with easy to find tools that you most likely already have. Quick easy weekend project for you favorite car.

Postflight your best option for heat is using heated motorcycle clothing. Its very light weight simple and works great because its on your body. With an open cockpit car a standard heater is not very effective because of the wind. Most Ultralites have used motors. Usually low mileage units were used when possible. This is a good deal on a used Ultralite.