DaveStruve

Joe I'm so sorry, met you on saturday and the car was beautiful. It'll turn up somewhere, not like you can easily hide one of these.

Hey guys so I've been working on this little side project for the last year in my spare time. Basically I'm designing some automotive inspired clothing and gear, with the hope supplimenting my track day expenses. The first designs I put up are 7 inspired with more to come down the road if there's any demand. Currently selling in the US and Canada only. Take a look and let me know what you think. Website is https://allthingsspeed.com

Yeah the chassis by far is the cheapest and easiest thing to build. Only took about 3 weeks to build my haynes roadster chassis. If you use plans based on a specific donor you can cut out a lot of the guess work.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/IMG_0698_zpsfeoqom51.jpg I switch between iracing and project cars.

If its pulley driven then yes. The thermostat opens and changes the flow direction through the motor instead of around it. As for the alternator your hitting 14v so it generating.

My initial thought from looking at this is that the battery and o2 are a result of the issue and not the cause. The engine hits 60 degrees and it does its stalling thing, alternator starts making less power as the cylinders shut off and theres a bunch of fuel being dumped into the system. Maybe disconnect the O2 and see what happens, just to try and eliminate it from the equation.

I follow that same reasoning So if it was me I would confirm that I don't have a rag or something stuck in the intake manifold partially blocking air to one of the cylinders. This could explain a potential shutdown under load. I doubt it's the plugs themselves, from my experience they may effect performance, but what your describing sound like there would be visible damage to one or more. I would still confirm each is sparking. Fuel, not sure in the case of the caterham, but my fuel cell has foam inside. I've heard of a number of people with foam blocks in the tank that after the first few tanks of gas sloshing around and loosening foam particles that they eventual settle to the bottom of the tank and then get pulled through the fuel filter and either clog it or find there way into the injectors clogging those. Same could be said about particulates in the fuel lines from making the lines that get flushed thru to the injectors.

Yeah fuel pressure would be something to check. Possibly clogged fuel filter. Does it feel like a cylinder is shutting down? The symptoms sound like when i was losing spark due to a lose wire on my ecu. Engine would run rough, unburnt fuel found its way into exhaust cause poping and backfires.

I registered, just hoping the weather is good.

Sold!!!!

So in an effort to try and take advantage of the low British pound to US dollar conversion rate. I ordered a high level caterham style wind detector from http://aerodynamix.co.uk It arrived today and while I ordered the wider version intended for a westfield, it's just not wide enough for my car. It's about 1-2" to narrow for my scuttle. I could modify it to fit better, but it creates other issues that I would prefer not to have to deal with. It should fit fine on a westfield, book chassis, and possibly on other haynes roadsters, just not with my scuttle from equinox. I paid $220 shipped from the UK and would like to recover what I can. I'm outside of Atlanta and would prefer someone local, but will ship if the offer is good. Email me at david@struvedesigns.com if interested. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_0601_zpszr5m5vkp.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_0602_zpshz3n0sly.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_0603_zpsq4ausah2.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_0605_zpsaotdo270.jpg

It's more likely that caterham listed it as a 1969 on the certificate of origin they sent with the chassis to help make sure the car avoided any modern day vehicle standards. I know someone that built one last year and it was listed as a 1969 on the documents caterham sent him. Anyways I would title it as it was, last thing you want to do is create a issue that could get the car flagged and blocked from registration. The title is just a means of identification for the state, buyer should know better with something like this.

Did some laps with him at the last SCCA tracknight at AMP. Nice guy, car is quick.

Toyo R1R for now, then ill switch to r888. Just need a bit more grip. May also look into wider wheels.

[video=youtube;O-8NpeqtTnc]

SCCA TrackNight April 2016 AMP

Saw it as well. Thought it was a westfield at first glance. But now that I see your photo, its clearly not. Saw another one on the road that was polished with green fenders... was that one yours?

Just noticed one of the places i buy t-shirts from, was now offering there super 7 design in poster form. Should make a nice piece in the garage. http://enthusiastapparel.com/collections/prints/products/kit-car-print

Im curious to actual weight savings. They are saying 10%, but is that only from the frame? Seems like that would only translate to around 10 - 15lbs.

Alternator? I had some similar symptoms with miata motor. Idle was hunting, the engine would shut off randomly. Turns out my alternator wasn't working at all or occasionally, the battery would read 12v regardless of engine running or not, when it should have read 14 when running. So after a while the battery would slowly drain, and once it got below a certain voltage the computer would start having issues because of lack of necessary voltage. This also caused my battery going bad as well.

So I completed my first track day in the car and did more or less a shakedown of it. Everything held up extremely well other than the cooling system. During my second session the engine started getting super hot... I mean really hot. I was seeing temps over 260 degrees, so at that point I shut it down and brought it in. Thankfully doesn't appear to be any head gasket damage, so I think I got lucky. So I have now been addressing that issue. I have ducted the radiator, will be switching to a water/ water wetter mix, and performing a coolant reroute on the miata motor. I regret not doing the coolant reroute before, because I did not leave myself much room to pull it off. With all that said, the car is very fast. So I'm happy. Video: This was from the very first session, so disregard the terrible driving. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/amp_8_15_2_zpsc2i90mdt.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/amp_8_15_zpscrnun8ho.jpg

Drew, If your looking to go cheap, then a locost is the way to go. It's more work, but the experience is a big part of it. There are enough plans and build logs out there to make it a pretty straightforward process. Cost wise you could build one for around $5k and real nice one for about $10k. A true kit will simplify the process, but I think realistically your looking at spending around $20k for one of the lower priced kits start to finish.

What is it: Lotus 7 Is it a kit: Me: No, i built it from scratch. Them: so you bought the chassis and put it together. Me: No, i bought a book and some metal and built it. Them: Confusion Honestly i should just say yes. No one seems to care that i built it, or they just dont believe me. How fast is it: Ive had it to 110 and it was scary. I aslo get "how much horsepower" followed by weight.

If there is movement it will continue to break. It's just work hardening it until it fails. Since I built mine from scratch and read about everyones fender failures, I made sure to really over build them and borrow elements from successful designs. I get zero movement from the fender with this design. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_1300_zps8bdb4165.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_1310_zps6d4fb2c8.jpg http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p74/xcritic/Lotus%207/IMG_1303_zps8d92a4bc.jpg