Scott_

All of my research indicated that as long as you keep the oil level properly high something like the Raceline wetsump is more than adequate for occasional track days and autocross. That said, for the engine I'm putting together for my car I went for the raceline dry sump. Scott

Thanks! It's still a work in progress. Scott

The look of the car has evolved since i bought it in January.

Out today at a cars and coffee with the Tar Heel Sports Car Club to get folks to consider coming out to some of our events. I left home in teh dark around 5:30am to get there and help get set up by 6:30am.

Thanks. There are things i'd do different if I were doing this again (and i might). I think the big yellow block is too big and too far forward and I might remove some of the colors from the fenders. I think the back of the car is the strongest. Scott

I’ve been thinking about a Mondrian or De Stijl inspired wrap for a while with a white base color. I was in London last month and saw the Mondrian below and it inspired me again, so I decided to try it on my blue car with white 1/2” vinyl pinstriping and 3m wrap for primary color blocks.

Decided to get out early this morning and drive to the cars and coffee in Fuquay-Varina, NC.

My guess on the part with the weber stamp is a fuel pressure regulator. Scott

To test if the fuel pump power wire chaffed to ground unplug at the pump and see if a fuse still blows (or check continuity). Absent a wire grounding out you might have a failing or clogging pump that is drawing more amps as it is used. If the fuse is blowing after the pump is in use for a while you might try to use a clamp meter to track the current draw or just proceed to replace the pump. Scott

Nice! I'd like to see some engine photos when you have a chance. Scott

A country club near where I live hosted an invitational car show today, and I got an invitation when a fellow at a cars and coffee came up to me to me last month saying he'd never sen a Caterham 7. There were some stunning cars there.

My guess is they are more valuable to leave on your car for potential resale down the road than remove and sell used lowered floors.. Scott

Here's a discussion from the UK forum... https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/262969-k-series-alternator-1400-supersport-1992-ecu2/ Try looking for a 55A Lucas A127 and replacements for the A127 that have the same mounting and pulley as yours. You also could use it as an opportunity to put a modern smaller/lighter denso style one on it but you'd have to work out mounting. Scott

Very nice. I have been considering one of those. Scott

You could reach out to https://www.stmotorsport.net/product-page/obd-diagnostic-connector-female-mbe-ecu-comms-motorsport-rally-race and ask about the MBE plug you need and if they could do a harness or partial harness and you could just wire it to Haltech (or other) standalone ECU plugs. You need the MBE ecu plug and a pinout list for the MBE. Haltech sell plug and pin kits for all of their current gen ECUs and all of the pinouts for the ECUs are available on their site. Depending on features you want, a Haltech 750 or 1500 might be enough. You would likely want to add a WB o2 and that will add some complexity to the install but make tuning at home and auto tuning with the Haltech a reality for you. Do a youtube search on Haltech autotune and you'll see what I mean. https://youtu.be/b_ly9YZodxw?si=3HahDUoV28-c9klw There are lots of resources for DIY tuning and wiring if you want to learn a new skill. There are active Haltech FB groups and lots of folks on those groups who run speed and wiring shops in North America that could help if you don't want to do it yourself. OR, like you say, just buy an unlocked MBE and it will save you much of the wiring hassle and you just need to find someone to tune it. You could likely find someone to provide you a good base map to start from. You might ask yourself as well what you'd gain and is it worth it. if you don't have drivability issues now it might not be worth the spend from a performance perspective. Scott