Slonie

You might not guess from looking at it but this one is quite spicy under the hood (purportedly "near-JPE" level of tuning on a HPC mill, plus a dry sump). Also according to our own member in the comments it's a 1994 Arch chassis so I'm not sure why/how they got a 1977 chassis tag on it. Cool car! Might fly under the radar just like that SLR a couple weeks ago, or maybe not considering how many comments are promoting the superiority of clamshell-fenders

I don’t know for certain but I’d throw a socket wrench on each side of it and give a tug on those, if it moves at all it definitely wasn’t torqued to spec (the spec is I believe 81Nm with a 3/4” socket plus deep socket, ie pretty darn tight) In my case I don’t think I could identify any movement by hand, but definitely noticed the lack of torque on this one during my bolt check. Scientifically speaking I also tightened every other rear suspension fastener as well as my differential mounting bolts, but this one was both the easiest to access, most loose, and most likely culprit for a clunk. One of my diff bolts was also loose — these warrant a torque check as well but don’t be like me and trust the modern IKEA manual for torque specs — older diffs have a lower spec and I definitely overdid mine before realizing this. Check the build manual that matches your car! Hopefully not a huge headache for future me.

Check the middle rear one first (very easy to access!). I had a clunk coming off throttle and that was the likely culprit as it was the practically the only suspension bolt I found that was noticeably not to torque on my car. You won’t even have to lift the car for this one!

Looks killer! What's the ETA for shipping? (and I assume they're going to remove the powertrain before shipping it?)

*checks the ever-updated drive log on Notes.app* Shoot, I've only driven about 800 this year. Those are rookie numbers in this outfit, I gotta bump those numbers up!

I was all set to buy the Kenu but then I saw this new Pioneer (yes Pioneer, for some reason) magnetic mount that also has a little adjustable stabilizing arm below the clip that might work really well on the dash. I think this might be the one, but I'm hoping for a sale.

BTW if you do want to join ITC, you can sign up for two years at the register which is $45 (compared to $30/yr). That's what I did... Or you could just give them the phone number of someone who's a member

Airframe+ ? And it grips strongly enough so that it doesn't wobble on the lip of the scuttle? Looks like that might be the ticket ... (de-crufted amazon link here: https://www.amazon.com/Kenu-Airframe-Android-iPhone-Accessories/dp/B00LU5LWQK )

Hi folks, So I've got an issue that isn't quite the same as anything I've found via search (here and elsewhere) and wanted to bounce ideas. My turns signals work fine, when the headlights are off. I've previous had some variant of the "they stopped working until I toggled the hazard switch several times" failure, but hasn't happened too much recently. When I turn the parking lights or headlights on (i.e. first and second position on the headlight switch) the front turn signals/indicators under the headlights stop working. They actually might be flashing but extremely weakly. Like, need-to-remove-the-lens-and-stare-at-the-filament weakly. I've taken the hazard switch apart and wiped off the contacts inside, and sprayed Deoxit inside (although I have to admit it "looked pretty clean" inside, my car is only 25 years old after all). This didn't seem to change anything. I have not tried buying a new hazard switch. Some other notes and observations from memory, as I'm not in the garage right now. 1. I've recently installed both Just Add Lightness LED Taillights installed, and CaterLED repeaters in back, although I'm not sure if this behavior is new with those recent additions. I don't think it is (but I just noticed it when going over the operation post-install). 2. I'm using a new (generic) LED flasher relay, one of two that I had on hand (both of the above came with one and while they looked identical, they had slightly different behavior, I picked the one that flashed more slowly) 3. I've previously had woes related to the wing indicators / turn signal repeaters on the fenders that I've seemingly resolved by removing the ground wire and cleaning up the ring terminal and washers (and sanding a bit around the hole in the wingstay). In some cases they wouldn't work at all or were very dim on one side. I've tried cleaning them up on both sides and they are working fine right now. 4. I've noticed different rates of flashing between having the headlights on and off with the hazard switch. Nothing that bothers me that much but... 5. I've always thought my car's flashers seemed fast but I don't really have much to compare against. I think they slowed down with the LED flasher relay I installed recently. 6. The big connectors for (I assume) the front lights are missing the retaining clips on my car and can be pulled apart easily, but manually pushing them together more tightly didn't change any behavior. So, any ideas? Of course my suspicion is a bad ground somewhere, but I'm not sure how the front indicators ground (unlike the fender ones). Also, they seem to work okay as long as the headlights are off. Everything else seems to be working fine in the signal and hazard department. Thanks for any ideas or tips for where to trace!

That sale is about as good as it gets for this jack. As a HF addict, I can't believe I got scooped by USA7s on this deal Granted the jacking points on the Caterham are SO easy to reach that I haven't had a problem with my little 1.5ton HF racing jack that I picked up about 25 years ago (and still kicking, even being from the "bad old days" of Harbor Freight). My rear license plate is dented from the jack handle hitting it though, so I am severely tempted by this long reach jack (and it'll be handy on my other car). One thing that's less-mentioned about this jack is that longer reach also means higher lift. It may actually have the highest lift capacity of all the myriad HF floor jacks.

I don’t know if the OP is long gone at this point but now that I’ve gone back and read the top post I’ll weigh in with my four cents (many of which have already been reiterated here). If I were going into business making a new boutique car I would not try to copy a 7*. Could you make a 7esque car that’s “better”? Maybe. Would it sell? Who knows. With the OP’s background I’d go for more of a budget Mono or a budget Radical/sports racer than another 7 clone. *here’s my one exception to this: a domestic focused Locost style kit using a domestically plentiful parts would find a market. My imagination was captured in 2004-5 when Champion Motorcars cropped up and offered a cheap chassis kit for a Miata donor. That sent me down the Locost rabbit hole and made it seem possible as a non-fabricator to get my own 7. I eventually gave up on it (much like CMC seemed to go belly-up almost immediately—I wonder how many kits/chassis they actually sold?), but an affordable point of entry is a real selling point IMO. This kind of dovetails with the thinking that probably went into the Goblin — domestic chassis and plentiful domestic donor parts. I just can’t abide by how they look 😆

“Once we get lighter-weight batteries, it’s game on…” —me, always about the one real problem with EV sports cars. Now I realize Caterham literally said that in the screenshot I posted. They’ll do a real Seven EV when it can be light enough.

Well, Caterham Project V is moving along and has a driving prototype now (with more production-ready details compared to the roller showcar). The powertrain is being developed with Yamaha as a partner. I’ve been updating a thread about it every time I see new info… But If you’re talking about EV seven (circa 2023), that’s really only been a one-off proof of concept from Caterham. I think they’ll place the majority of their effort on the Project V first, but in the longest of runs I would very much expect to see them revisit the electric Seven.

Yeah, he seems to have written all these books and published them all this year? Lots of paragraphs ending in "it's not this, it's that" (a classic hallmark of AI writing). He also seems to invent a Mark VII separately from the Seven (now, I decided to google it just to see if there was something I missed, and this was as close as I could get, in any case even that Clairmonte special was never actually designated Mk VII so I'm not sure what they're on about)

TIL you can just call them up and have them make custom setup for you! Are they going to send to the factory for installation directly? The spec on your build from the other thread goes crazy, this is another great touch!