Brightonuk

Ya still looking I would rather not have to go to the UK but it may be a last resort, so another question regarding the crank in the Zetec (which is the only part that I am having issues matching up) My Zetec block has "Ford Racing" Stamped in the block does this block or internals differentiate from a standard 2.0 Zetec? I found this https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/pdfs/EngineHistory.pdf but it really does not tell me much just uses Ford Racing Parts. As I am possibly replacing the crank is there a ford part number for a "Ford Racing block Crank" or is it just a standard one. Everything else Rods, pistons etc can be and will be aftermarket items but I am concerned that I install HP internals I do not want to make a silly mistake on using the wrong crank Thanks Steve

Ya that said anyone know where to source a new crank for a 2.0 Zetec apparently they are discontinued by Ford and none of the speed shops have one

So it begins and the $$ will start to dwindle. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15158&stc=1 I decided on Road and Race in West Palm Beach for the rebuild as they are the one taking the engine out and sending it across country just did not make sense. These guys came with good reviews and all they do is build and fix race cars we will see. I should know by Friday how much damage I did driving it 1/4 mile home after the bearing went south (Should of just called the wife to bring the trailer when I heard the bang)

I used Flex Glue (it is one of those as seen on tv products) to hold them, let that set then used a small square of fiberglass over each one These are my track day GRP fenders so I did not bother to make them pretty. But is you want these attached for good glass fiber is the way to go http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15154&stc=1

Just a thought on attaching the front wings. I used Bigheads and zip ties to attach my front wings, rock solid and easy to take off if you need to.

Just in case anyone is looking to spend $$ on a borescope This one for 9 bucks works great better than the $70 one from HF. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078926W9N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (To help pay for the rebuild I am now offering High Res Colonoscopies for $59.99)

Not sure is there would be an interest but there are a couple of used enclosed landscaping trailers up for bid that could easily transform to a car hauler here, And right now a bargain price. https://www.proxibid.com/Heavy-Construction-Equipment/Construction-Equipment-Trailers/2010-ROAD-RUNNER-ENCLOSED-TRAILER-BLACK-WITH-SIDE-DOOR/lotInformation/46704527 http://https://www.proxibid.com/Heavy-Construction-Equipment/Construction-Equipment-Trailers/2016-FREEDOM-ENCLOSED-TRAILER-GREY-WITH-SIDE-DOOR/lotInformation/46704526 https://www.proxibid.com/Heavy-Construction-Equipment/Construction-Equipment-Trailers/2002-ROAD-RUNNER-ENCLOSED-TRAILER-WHITE-WITH-SIDE-DOOR/lotInformation/46704525 Pick up in Ft Lauderdale

Pics Please

Censored /Censored/Censored Not as often as was done in 1984 No Choice Debatable

I can't justify $8k on a rebuild period! So as good as they may be QS is out Focus Power in NC seems the way to go 60% less for what looks like on paper a solid result. Had a long chat with the owner and he went through various scenarios basically saying reuse as much as they can, head, pistons (I have a spare set) ARP bolts re con the connecting rods etc. Crank and bearings are wrecked but replacement is a couple of hundred bucks. He was reducing the cost as best he could based on assumptions which to me was a refreshing change than a $3k minimum I heard from QS just to tear the engine down. He did say I gotta keep that 11.1 compression or lose a ton of power and octane booster only works in the tank for a few hours and that could of been the constant knocking I heard and that did not do the engine any favours. Stick with 100 octane gas. All the help and advice offered here is greatly appreciated (But still nothing on how to explain this to the wife) I will keep you guys informed of what happens and if Focus Power turns out to be the correct choice.

Are your headers coated?

Thanks Croc Focus Power is my #1 option thus far unless I get additional feedback.

I check the plugs no oil but dusting around 3 and 4 cylinder plugs (closest to the bulkhead) Here is the bore scope vid. #1 looks scored 2 looks OK 3 & 4 have issues with what looks like a dusting of some flakes. Again I don't really know what I am looking for other than a obvious hole and the scope is kind of big so I can't get a shot of the walls (That what you get for 50 bucks) https://youtu.be/Xmd3LyZRGUg Bottom line is I am fearing the worst and will find out next week when I take it to the shop and have them take a look. I am resigned to the fact I need to look at a rebuild $8K+ from Quicksilver or from what I can see a better choice financially go for the Zetec Long block @ $3750 from Focus Power and if the head has no issues reuse that and opt for a short block. If someone would be so kind and look at this site and tell me which option to go for as it seems I have choices SVT Duratec etc? Thanks guys for all the advice. Steve

Also has a long block and other engine options (Duratec) Zetec Complete Long Block $3750.00 *Complete means Head /Cams to Oil Pan* 9.6 to 12-1 Compression Forged Pistons Eagle Rods Balanced New Rings New Rod & Main Bearings ARP Head and Main Studs Valve Job & Clearances set Machine work Gaskets High Volume Oil Pump Timing belt and idler I would hope any parts that I will need that can be reused I can scavenge off of the old one. As I am assuming whatever damage I may have caused will be covered in the above Long Block so any additional parts should be clear of damage I got the bore scope and am about to go look but honestly I will not know what I am looking for unless I see a gaping hole in the piston I will try to make a shot vid from the scope But Harbour Freight @ 50 bucks don't expect a hollywood production

Im a britt so we get a "dry sense of humor" and I will take sarcasame if the guy giving it knows more than me so that goes for 95% of people on this forum. The block is a Ford Racing this is the only number I see Just found this any thoughts as this option is 50% less than a rebuild and seems like a no brainer Out of the choices of engine they offer which one? https://focus-power.com/product/zetec-engine/ http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15113&stc=1

as I said excuse my ignorance Thanks off to Harbor Freight

Again you have to excuse my ignorance but I looked down the throttle bodies and all four valves are visible and seated Good News? Does this mean that the banging is not something in the bore?

Thank you Funny enough just finished writing a PM to Kitkat regarding how much am I spending and trying to justify it If I look at the cost it is not so much the amount of $$$ I have spent just in hindsight how they could of been better spent. I think with the cost of the car the two resprays (That's another story) the mechanical issues the electrical issue and now a possable $8k bill for a engine rebuild all that cash could of bought me a new car!

Yep Quicksilver seems to be the way to go a 1.6 eco is just too much work and as I am not doing it $$$$$$ for the labour QS quoted $3k just to strip and he had a ballpark of $6-8K to repair it.... this is going to be a really hard sell to the wife even if I hide 50% of the cost I am not looking forward to that conversation Anyone with one of those 220 HP Quicksilver engines? If so Please reach out to me

Thanks Croc Reached out to them Yellow7 Who is Turbo Tom? An excuse my ignorance regarding this but: I have been advised that switching to a 1.6 ecoboost (that will drop in) is the way to go rather than building another Zetec. More power even if stock than a replacement Ford Racing Zetec and a hell of a lot cheaper. And if I am down on power something I can build over time with HP parts. I guess I could get a short block Zetec an reuse my heads? Its all about cost now, the Cat is beginning to take a toll on my cashflow, with the $$ I have spent getting her roadworthy and looking pretty I could have imported a new one and still had change for coffee. In addition I am totally confused on what way to go, my Zetec is going to be toast I am sure the noise from the engine was a dropped valve and the drive home after the fact sealed its fate. Would that damage the head as well? I will pull the plugs and look to see if there is damage to a piston but that noise was not something that was minor. That said I will talk to Quicksilver and see what they suggest Thanks Again for the help

Wrecked mine dropped a main bearing and I am sure a rod in in the cylinder from the noise it is making now, so any suggestions on where to source a new/used one I would prefer another built unit Any pointers on who rebuilds/Sells Zetec race engines?

Got mine from Intertrim in the UK http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15105&stc=1

Go with the heat and a blow hammer If you do go with the "last resort" a dremel may be easier to control than a Sawzall if the angle will work lees chance of damaging something

Way to Go M8 Hope you have as much fun as the rest of us Where are you located

FYI The Aluma 6812 works perfectly just a touch of the undercarriage when loading and the car fits like a glove on the trailer IMO this trailer is the perfect one for the Caterham, 3-4" each side, drive on tips horizontal drive off tips 30 degrees +/- no ramps to worry about Now I gotta find one near me