Vovchandr

RHD Zetec in an S3 might severely limit your options with steering going right through where supercharger hardware would go. You're likely going to need an NA build if you don't want turbo.

Rare find indeed. Congrats!

4 20 25 Bear Mt Storm King

Spring 25 Season Opener Caterham Social Gathering

What’s Inside a Caterham Engine Crate? (Spoiler: It’s Beautiful)

Double whiskers! Caterham, Street legal go kart with race car DNA #caterham #ignitiontherapy #gocart

Worth noting villas as of this time are no longer an option. All are sold with nobody subletting.

Lack of ownership of one is the biggest reason I would say. I have nothing against them. I'm going to need a bigger tool box though at this rate..

Thank you! So much theater. I love it!

Arbitrary 200whp would be my happy goal on a Zetec. As it sits it dyno'd around 140 so 50% increase would be plenty. Do you know how many PSI pully you're running? How does the SC whine sound?

Beauty! Do you know what you put down for power? With that said I think the clearances are so close on the S3 I might still make it work with a spacer or something. I already have it on hand to try to make it easier.

Is this reply towards me? If so I'm well familiar and very happy client of Toms. He goes above and beyond and his knowledge is on a guru level. Traveled from NY to NC and spend a long weekend troubleshooting my car. I'll likely end up using his help again if I go with induction but so far trying to learn as much as I can by myself. I'm aware of his head, we had a brief convo about it a bit ago. At the time the cost benefit wasn't there for me but I might revisit it the issue. My poking around with fuel map late last season appears to have solved a major problem I've been having with the car. Now I can map my fuel table a lot better especially since I discovered that ChatGPT can make a template of a map for me to follow when I wasn't getting an answer from anybody. With a solid map and misfire sorted out, considering the fact that I seem to only get 200-400 miles a year out of the car, big plans and tear downs dont seem to make sense unless my hand is forced by some mechanical failure. (which is rather common in my world it seems) The SC setup is the same SC as Duratec uses for 620R. Reason those are all RHD is because of steering. Since Zetec is mirrored, it's an optimal candidate for same Rotrex SC setup on a LHD car. The 3 roots type SC's I have on hand have been unable to clear S3 (non SV) sizing. SV's have had luck in the past with clearance for other peoples builds.

Zetec

If you need any more convincing of what the see through filter looks like I have a few videos uploaded

AGM is indeed Lead Acid family. Don't use Lithium. Lithium is higher voltage, there's no trickle mode which LeadAcid needs and it might overcharge it on Lithium setting. Good call on asking!

This is the way!

So I got an answer to this from an unexpected source ChatGPT helped me out Also seemed very concerned at what my existing map looked like Potential Issues: Flat Spot at Low TPS and Mid RPM: There’s a noticeable valley in the lower TPS columns as RPM increases. This can cause hesitation or lean misfire when lightly accelerating or cruising. Sudden Dips at High RPM: The right side (higher RPMs) shows valleys or even drops, especially in the mid TPS rows. That’s risky—it might be going lean when it shouldn’t, especially on part or moderate throttle. Uneven Surface: The map isn’t smooth—there are abrupt steps or edges. That can lead to unpredictable fueling transitions and poor drivability. In worst cases, it can create resonant surging or cause knock events. Amazing.

I love using mine. Life saver when there's no other option on a cold day. One of the biggest things that makes a 7 better than a bike for transportation. Also on a Zetec it's one of the only sources of heat for passenger. I went as far as trying to make a HVAC tube to channel heat directly to passenger that can be deployed as needed.

Thermostat can be tested by throwing it into boiling water. Coolant system can be tested for thermostat issue by taking it out entirely. Depending on system might be an easy test. Certainly a conundrum

That driveway is begging for donuts Congrats.

Is this the water pump? I'm not sure if you saw references but here are some from the Net Here are two Zetecs which should be similar but flipped Here is a Duratec

I'm pretty "new car" sheltered and love 7 dearly. It's always reassuring to see others share my sentiment even though they have pretty nice new alternatives in the garage (Such as the C8, rented one for a day, what a machine - just not "for me"). Connex is a nice alternative that one doesn't see everyday. I'm personally kicking around the idea of getting a 4 post. Maybe sooner than later with the potential costs going up in this political climate.

I think it really depends on the area. I don't personally have had a lot SUV challengers, nor anybody else really for that matter.

I just realized there's no bleeder on the rad. @SilberCan you show exactly where you bleed the system? I just remembered that vacuum filling is also an option that can be done for those that like a more violent approach. I've never tried it myself yet.

In addition to what everybody else has said here are a few points out of left field as I battled with cooling issues on my Zetec and still do to some degree 1) Is the car stock ECU or standalone? My fuel maps have a lot to do with how the car runs. I'm also running cool as of late and struggle to stay at temp. 2) For any coolant troubleshooting I recommend a see through coolant filter. Makes it much easier to troubleshoot things if you can see the flow/air issues instead of a blind system (different sizes available check yours, this is an example) https://www.amazon.com/Champion-Cooling-Systems-CCHF-1-50-Coolant/dp/B01FXRJ6R2/ref=asc_df_B01FXRJ6R2?mcid=bff87b07fc8b3a6d88619500d17debc6&hvocijid=17731782726575446717-B01FXRJ6R2-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17731782726575446717&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004728&hvtargid=pla-2281435177898&psc=1 3) I don't believe you have a heater core but a second bleeder is always nice to have on the other end of the car to make things easier. https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/radiator-flush-tools/p/peak-flush-and-fill-kit/525931_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:19489353553&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVsIMzvFnhppBa5BdOgRQ_TzF&gclid=CjwKCAjw5PK_BhBBEiwAL7GTPXxrPxxRaZOzotzMxihKuGUHMMFvUu8bo1NBRgUBaPIVdhJPqlltahoCGK4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds 4) Rent a coolant pressure tester from Advance or autozone (free with collateral to borrow it). Gotta make sure system is "snug" before further troubleshooting. You should hold 15 to 20 pounds for hours or longer. Quick and easy test 5) Are you using one of these? They make bleeding a lot easier tool. I had to make an adapter for mine not sure if you'll have better luck https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Spill-Coolant-Funnel-Kit/dp/B089YHW5HR/ref=asc_df_B089YHW5HR?mcid=afb6c6b9c9633802bad331df1a0d9588&hvocijid=3054922127020583502-B089YHW5HR-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3054922127020583502&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004728&hvtargid=pla-2281435181178&psc=1